Block heater installation - block heater won’t seat

SkylabTech86IDI

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hi all, I’m installing a new block heater that was tested to work to replace the non-working block heater element.

I’m having a problem getting the block heater plug to seat in the cavity. It’s like the O-ring doesn’t want to seat, and only up to 50% of the plug seems to be seated at a time.

Are you supposed to push the block heater plug flush into the cavity before tightening it, or are you suppose to line the block heater plug up as best you can and use the hex nut bolt to pull the plug into the block?

I’ve broken 3 hex nut bolt now trying to seat the block heater back into place.
 

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SkylabTech86IDI

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I see there are instructions to Point element at 11 o'clock position but in the picture that I sent, that heating element is close to in the 11 o clock position.

I’m going to the store to grab new hardware and try again tomorrow
 

IDIBRONCO

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Yes close to the 11 o'clock position is correct. I don't think that you can pull the heater in far enough with the bolt to get it to seat. I tighten up the bolt enough so that it holds pressure on the heater and then tap it in the rest of the way with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. I also like to put a thin layer of RTV on the block heater o-ring before I install it. There's two reasons for that. One, it will help lubricate the o-ring and let it slide into place easier. Two, that sealing area can be pretty rough sometimes and(hopefully) it will help to seal up small imperfections.
 

SkylabTech86IDI

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Sometimes they can be stubborn.
Stubborn they can be, indeed.

So an update: I put 3-ish more miles of easy driving on the truck after I installed the block heater replacement. In that link is a 2 minute example of a drive.

After vetting the running condition, I was going to use the truck to pick up furniture and some engine parts and before setting off I gave the truck a good rev right in front of the house. Wouldn’t you know it, the block heater blew out

Frustrating but got to stick with it
 
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Sergey

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Yes close to the 11 o'clock position is correct. I don't think that you can pull the heater in far enough with the bolt to get it to seat. I tighten up the bolt enough so that it holds pressure on the heater and then tap it in the rest of the way with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. I also like to put a thin layer of RTV on the block heater o-ring before I install it. There's two reasons for that. One, it will help lubricate the o-ring and let it slide into place easier. Two, that sealing area can be pretty rough sometimes and(hopefully) it will help to seal up small imperfections.
Hi, looks like my block heater developed a leak. Tightening the bolt in its center doesn't help.
Not a good thing for me. I can see the block heater plug from under the truck, but my hands cannot get to it at all. How's can block heater accessed ? Seems that you all here are knowledgeable.
Thanks
 

IDIBRONCO

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You have to drop the starter in order to get to the block heater. Before you remove it, be sure to drain the radiator and that side of the block if you can remove the drain plug. That will lessen the amount of coolant that drains out and makes a big mess. It can also help to jack up the passenger's side of the truck after that side of the block is drained.
 

Sergey

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You have to drop the starter in order to get to the block heater. Before you remove it, be sure to drain the radiator and that side of the block if you can remove the drain plug. That will lessen the amount of coolant that drains out and makes a big mess. It can also help to jack up the passenger's side of the truck after that side of the block is drained.
thank you for the explanation. Certainly I'll drain coolant.

Ouch. I didn't expect that much work to get access to the block heater. Last time I tried to remove starter was 20 years ago and I recall it was very hard to access one of the bolts, nearly impossible to reach even with a swivel socket. Maybe my hands aren't flexible. Also I recall starter was too heavy to handle with hands only so it needed a jack support. Oh well.

After some thinking, and given my situation, when in summer I'll get to it eventually, I will consider to install rubber plug to avoid doing again as a result of possibly poor replacement part which are now very common.
 

IDIBRONCO

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The only starters that I had trouble getting to the top bolt on were the Delco-Remy direct drive starters that came on the early trucks. Those were a BEAR. You might have one of those since it's so heavy. That would be a good time to install a better, lighter weight starter.
 

trancas

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Would one of these work for us?

Also, when I had my starter out, I made a stud from a long bolt. Locked 2 nuts to the end so I could turn it, buttered it and the hole for the upper bolt in the truck with JB Weld, and installed it nice and tight into the truck, so now I have a stud to hang it on when installing. Be sure to undo lock nuts before JB sets, lest you fracture the bond where its screwed into truck. Is it bolted to engine or trans bell housing? I cant remember so I say truck....
 

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jwalterus

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The only starters that I had trouble getting to the top bolt on were the Delco-Remy direct drive starters that came on the early trucks. Those were a BEAR. You might have one of those since it's so heavy. That would be a good time to install a better, lighter weight starter.
Somewhere in my toolbox I have a piece of rebar welded between 2 sockets I made up just for that bolt.........
IIRC it took some unholy conglomeration of specific extensions that were 3+3+1+1 length, but it had to be 3" because a6" was actually too long.....
That was my '83 extended cab that also couldn't fit the PSD filter....
 

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