Oh hell just get yerself a small lift n cut fenders toss on some 54's and be done!
Biggest tires '80-'86 F-350 D60?
- Thread starter dunk
- Start date
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
I gave it a shot awhile back when I realized that the 10.25 I was swapping into Bruiser was a c&c axle. I have it running srw with 37x12.50r16.5's and some stout aluminum 3.5" spacers. Haven't lost torque on the securing lugs since I put them on almost 3 years ago. Have had lots of wheeling and heavy towing since then. I probably wouldn't use them if you're going to be hauling upwards of around 10 tons or so.
Stock on my 90 xlt is 6" which is a bit to narrow for 265/75 (tried it, not to bad, but couldn't get it to wear even. The center wore to fast even at 55 psi empty). 265/75 is the same height as 235/85 (stock)
3050 lbs Not quite as much as the heavier load rating tires but about a ton more than the 10k rating on the truck.
Hmm. My 265/75 are worn slightly more in the center and PO did run fairly low pressure in them around 40 psi.
I'm considering going with a 8" wide wheel and 295/75 tires. These would be a better match on tire to wheel size, still give me a taller wider tire that I want, not be pushing it to the limit without a lift, and cost a bit less. I'd rather do lockers, swap in long pinion gears and do my ZF5 before worrying about the time and expense of a lift.
235/85R16 = 31.7X9.25R16
265/75R16 = 31.6X10.43R16
295/75R16 = 33.4X11.61R16
315/75R17 = 35.6X12.4R17
Was under the truck putting my front shaft back in and figured I'd take some measurements on both teh stock height and lifted trucks. Good for reference regardless, but it looks like technically35" should fit with 3" clearance to top of fender with the front bottomed on the stops. Of course it can vary turning the wheel and so forth so maybe tighter than it looks on paper.
Extra measurements...
Axle centerline to front closest part of fender: 20 3/4"
Axle centerline to rear closest part of fender: 22"
So it looks like with 35" tires just eyeballing it with a tape there would be about 1" clearance from the tire to front of fender. It would likely rub when turning at full compression.
You must be registered for see images attach
Extra measurements...
Axle centerline to front closest part of fender: 20 3/4"
Axle centerline to rear closest part of fender: 22"
So it looks like with 35" tires just eyeballing it with a tape there would be about 1" clearance from the tire to front of fender. It would likely rub when turning at full compression.
Last edited:
burt
Full Access Member
I normally run toyo mt in a 315 75 16 on brick and obs trucks and they always rub the leaf spring with 4.5 backspacing on an 8" rim even lifted. these are d60 trucks and many different incarnations. 3.75" bs on an 8"rim with 315s is the combo that im settled on as the best compromise between off road, towing and plain getting work done. i also have a hard time getting away from toyo mt because they are unbelivably tough. Ive torn the sidewalls out of many a tire (including 3 different bfg at) but never once got a flat i coulden't plug with those tires. So i guess the relavence to your question is that it may depend on the tire. the toyos have those lugs on the sidewall that make them bomb proof but also are more likely to rub.
Thanks for the great info. 315/75R16 is not rubbing the fender, only the spring? Are these stock height D60 trucks? Not sure how brick and OBS fenders measure up to the older trucks so far as clearance to axle centerline at front/center/rear. I would prefer to not lift the truck if I can run a decent size tire. I don't do any hardcore wheeling like I used to and for now at least I still have the other truck if the mood struck me. Getting heavy trucks stuck and unstuck gets old too. I have always been surprised what a stock height truck with decent tires and lockers can go through, so I think those things should be first for the IDI, which will help preserve the easy loading and unloading of bed and good towing manners. I may just pull the trigger on 295/75R16. 33.4"x11.6" should be plenty good for now. I leave for a trip in 2 weeks I'll be putting probably 2000 miles on the truck and don't want to do it on these old tires.
burt
Full Access Member
I dont know how the older fenders compare either but the axle and spring arrangement should be the same so the leaf rubbing thing would be the same. I used to have the same tire on a stock height truck of the brick vintage and no fender rubbing but it didnt have a stock bumper which is i think would be the first thing to hit.
Diesile
Full Access Member
Slantnose (my '86) have quite a bit more (clearance) than OBS, don't know where the bricknose stands........
305/70-16s rub on the OBS whereas the militarys cleared on the slantnose (all D60/F350).
305/70-16s rub on the OBS whereas the militarys cleared on the slantnose (all D60/F350).
bike-maker
Full Access Member
Slant nose wheel openings are wider than the newer trucks, but it appears the height is the same. Dimension from the top of the wheel well up to the body line is the same. Measured on my truck (currently has a 87-97 bed, but also have a spare slant nose bed for future install).
FWIW, I had 35's on mine back when it had the TTB that sat about 1" higher than stock. They cleared but it was really close. The close spot wasn't even sheet metal - it was the plastic inner fender in the front bottom corner of the wheel well.
Dunk: is that 23.5" dimension in your sketch above a stock ride height TTB, or Dana 60?
FWIW, I had 35's on mine back when it had the TTB that sat about 1" higher than stock. They cleared but it was really close. The close spot wasn't even sheet metal - it was the plastic inner fender in the front bottom corner of the wheel well.
Dunk: is that 23.5" dimension in your sketch above a stock ride height TTB, or Dana 60?
bike-maker
Full Access Member
Thanks, posted this very question in one of my threads and no one ever answered it....
Guess my truck is sitting right at stock Dana 60 ride height.
Derail over.
