Bearing R&R

[jdkline]

I hope this doesn't become neccessary, but if I keep seeinghigh lead in myoil it might. I would pull the engine and have it on a stand for this job. Assuming that, what is the difficulty level? What do I need to keep in mind to avoid screwing up real bad? I posted this over on TDS also but thought I would ask here since I knowsome of the real IDI veterans are here now. Thanks. Hope Blackstone's next report will make this amoot point but if it doesn't you all know I'll be back.
J.D.

 

[argve]

Pretty straight forward, just yank engine, spin over on stand - be ready for it to flip hard and fast because she's top heavy (like any engine) so best to have a buddy help because when she reaches the topple over point she will just about rip you off the ground as she spins over.

Now that you got her over just take oil pan off and enjoy. Remember to wipe down the mating surface and use plasti-gauge on the bearings this will insure you got the right bearings (std or 10 thousandths etc...).

Don't use a metal hammer to beat with use a block of wood or soft faced hammer (dead blow works wonders here). I have seen guys use a metal hammer before only to ruin whatever they were trying to get loose. It's a pretty simple straight forward type of thing so you'll do fine if you need to dive in.

Oh just be gentle with the oil pan when you go to rip it off, you can bend the flanges up pretty good so just pay close attention when you use the screwdriver to pry it loose.

 

[jdkline]

So its best to turn teh engine over? Assuming I'm going to leave the top end alone, will it hurt anything to flip the engine over? And do I need to get the crankshaft mic'd at a machine shop or just measure it here at the house? Thanks Travis!

 

[yARIC008]

I'd say switching the bearings out would be an easy job, once you get the engine out that is. I'm always a little scared flipping that engine over. Always seemed like my stand wanted to give out when it was upside down.

Not sure about the machining the crank. If it looks okay i would just leave it alone. If it has the funky heat waves or weird color to the bearing surface then i'd would have it done.

Goodluck though, hope the oil tests were funky.

 

[argve]

Well if you don't flip the engine over your gonna have to stand on your head to the work - read no fun. Plus if you pull the crank it's much easier to do it standing up not laying under the engine.

Now for mic'n it out at the house... that depends... Do you have a good set of mic's big enough for the job? Do you know how to use them? It's not a crank 'em down until they won't turn anymore thing, it's a just touch it deal.

 

[argve]

Wait a minute... I don't think you can change the mains unless you have the crank out anyway, it's been a while since I have been in there but I don't think you can get them out otherwise.

 

[jdkline]

Good question. Wish I knew the answer. I just hope they will be OK enough to wait until I rebuild the whole engine at some later date. I'm a little scared of flipping that big fat engine over. I don't want to win any darwin awards! Do you all think I would be hearing a severe knock and/or having oil pressur eproblems if they were that shot?

 

[LUCKY_LARUE60]

Depending on where you are getting your oil pressure from and what kind of gauge you are using but the oil pressure to the factory gauge is controlled by the cam bearings. The rear of the block is the farthest away from the pump so if you have good pressure at the factory sending unit chances are you have good pressure at the crank. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump with a relief valve, so it will pump oil and try to hold pressure until the relief valve opens so oil pressure is not a good indicator.............. Jim

 

[jdkline]

So the stock location only tells you about how you camshaft bearings are doing, not the rod and main bearings? I didn't know that.