batterys drained this morning from vr?

briang

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ok here the story

batt. lite came on in truck, batterrys were eventually dead.

got batterrys charged and tested, passenger was no good, driver was good batts were tested seperratley

ok, got new alternator, and 1 new batt, for passenger side should solve problem(i thought)

alternator not charging, only 12.8 volts

got alternator tested, 2 shops said it was good,

buy new vr and pigtail going into the vr

change pigtail (only wire nutted together) and new vr, but vr was not on firewall (just sitting) batterry lite was not on no more now getting 17volts at batterry

i thought maby vr was not grounded so that was problem now.

install on firewall (which i thought was a good ground) thats the way it was when i purchased

batt. lite comes back on

start truck still getting 18v at batterrys

while truck running, if i pull lite switch volts drop down to 14v

truck running, lites on rev rpm's volts in truck gage start to climb

truck still running, lites on, gage in truck steady at 14v

i play with switch to put window up and volts go up, starnge

i need some serious help with this

thanks for reading

brian
 

jhnlennon

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I think if you don't have the VR grounded it can burn them up. Id try a new VR, and make sure its grounded before hooking everything up.
 

Kalashnikov

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Easiest thing to do is get a 3g alternator which has an internal regulator and delete all the external voltage regular wiring. All you need is to get the harness pigtail for the 3g and connect it to the small alternator charging wire. Look online for a Ford 3g alternator wiring diagram. And then you need a power wire to the starter solenoid like the factory does from the alternator stud. 130amp output and much cleaner looking under the hood.
 

briang

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how do you guys have your vr grounded, 2 bolts in firewall

and a sepreate ground wire ?
 

jhnlennon

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how do you guys have your vr grounded, 2 bolts in firewall

and a sepreate ground wire ?
Bolting the VR to the firewall is what grounds it, just remember to bolt it up BEFORE hooking anything up.
 

Matrix37495

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On mine i ran a wire from the vr mounting bolt to the steel fender. Since the plate is sat on is on the plastic inner fender i didn't know if it was grounded properly as it was.

It's close enough to the battery you could run it there if you wanted...
 

Tim4

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Unhook both battery negative cables.

Install new properly grounded voltage regulator.

In the future, never fool with regulator unless both negative cables are unhooked.
 

riotwarrior

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how do you guys have your vr grounded, 2 bolts in firewall

and a sepreate ground wire ?

My VR is on the metal plate that is on Pass inner fender that the low vacuum relay is one and sits just behind the battery tray. It has a ground wire and is bolted to that plate. I can get a pic if you need to see it.
 

briang

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a pic would be great

neg. battery cables were not unhooked, and it was not grounded

i will get a new one and see what happens, good thing there cheap

i finally got this truck running really good and now this

thanks for the input guys
 

Nellie44Milite

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Hi,

You should check everything on your truck especially the connections on your batteries. Maybe there's a problem with the connections.
 

riotwarrior

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a pic would be great

neg. battery cables were not unhooked, and it was not grounded

i will get a new one and see what happens, good thing there cheap

i finally got this truck running really good and now this

thanks for the input guys

I just got around to this for you sorry it's taken so long,

I've got the best two shots here for you I do hope this helps you out.

Notice the one wire I'm holding is the ground attached to the VR and starter relay with a connector in between

Then I tried a more close up shot of the VR connector for wire ID

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I do hope this helps

Al
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Electronic stuff is easily killed and, like already suggested, I suspect you either killed the regulator by it not being GROUNDed, or it was defective in the first place.

I have read that many of the import regulators are dead straight out of the box.

The sad thing is that all of the old trusted brands are now made in the same foreign factories as the discount brands.

My original O.E.M. regulator died when the truck was about two years old; I replaced it with a STANDARD IGNITION brand, made-in-USA, from the parts-house and it was still doing it's job when I replaced all the factory mess with a Leece-Neville externally regulated unit.

One thing I really like about the Leece-Neville is that the external regulator is mounted onto the rear of the alternator itself, fool-proof and simple to replace.
 
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