Anybody put a C6 pan w/drain?

Cubey

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My RV's transmission fluid looks awful, so I am going to drop the pan soon to change the fluid and filter. It's probably the original stuff from 1985. o_O At least it does still have some red tint to it amazingly.

I don't really want to mess with the torque converter drain, to be honest. I'm already dreading the pan drop alone.

Since I will be doing the labor myself, I have my eye on one of these $30 deeper pans with a drain plug. This would be helpful to the trans to have more fluid to work with, plus I can drain the fluid as easily as an oil change a time or two until the 2qts left in the torque converter gets diluted out.

I already measured and looked, the engine oil pan and exhaust hangs lower than this deeper drain pan.

I'm not sold on the idea yet, just considering it.

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Garbage_Mechan

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You can do it! The torque converter holds more oil than the stock pan. I do it by taking a remote starter under and bumping it around until the plug shows up in the access area.
 

Cubey

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If you have a plug in torque converter I’d drain it while I was there.

Being just me, it will be very hard to line it up. You have to manually turn the engine to get to the bolt, or bump it with a remote starter. It appears to be on the engine oil pan side of the TC, not too easy to reach.

I don't know if a trans shop would TC drain or not. I'd have to trust that they would if they said they would.

If I thought they would, I might just pay the $130-150 or whatever it costs these days and be done with it.

Finding a trustworthy shop is hard anymore though. The best trans shop here shut down a few years ago after about 50 years. The one across from it kinda screwed me on my F250s differential (the better shop was still open then, but wouldn't do diffs).
 
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gnathv

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Plug should protrude through flex plate. Not that bad to do.
TC holds about 4 quarts. 4 quarts of used fluid plus 5 quarts new fluid equals 9 quarts of dirty fluid.
 

Cubey

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Plug should protrude through flex plate. Not that bad to do.
TC holds about 4 quarts. 4 quarts of used fluid plus 5 quarts new fluid equals 9 quarts of dirty fluid.

My Haynes manual says 11.7-13.5 qts total.

My Chilton says 8 if TC is drained (by itself?) and 3 for a pan drop.

:dunno

Does that look correcrt?

(Pic from the web, the IDI oil pan is more in the way)

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gnathv

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I’d have 12 quarts on hand. Could use a little more or a little less.
 

gnathv

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If you have Walmart nearby get the valvoline max life, it’s synthetic and under $18 a gallon. Buy 4 gallons, if you only us 3 take one back. It will run a little cooler with synthetic.
 

Cubey

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If you have Walmart nearby get the valvoline max life, it’s synthetic and under $18 a gallon. Buy 4 gallons, if you only us 3 take one back. It will run a little cooler with synthetic.

Yep, I saw that, only $1.50/gal more than the SuperTech HM. It has a sizable trans cooler, but still.

I sent a FB message to the shop where I will be having the timing done, asking if they do ATF service and if so how much. They usually take a few days do reply.

It might be worth extra $50-60 to just pay a shop for such a nasty job.

I would have to buy a bigger drain pan too, one wide enough to catch the waterfall of dirty ATF.

3 gallons of fluid ($54) a filter ($12), a pan gasket ($5 after $5 off i have), and potentially $15-20 for a big enough drain pan.. plus tax. Almost $100.. and I have to crawl under and do all the work while laying on my back.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Does that look correcrt?
Yes except that all of the diesel transmissions (I think) have the inspection cover that slopes away from the engine oil pan instead of being flat like in the picture.
I would have to buy a bigger drain pan too, one wide enough to catch the waterfall of dirty ATF.
If you're careful about how you drain the pan it usually doesn't make a huge mess. You remove the bolts at one corner (it will eventually drop down here) and then slowly work the rest out. When you're getting close to having them all out, the original corner will start to drop down away from the transmission. Then you slowly remove the remaining bolts, letting the fluid drain a little bit at a time. This is more like a controlled release than a sudden one. I also think that the deeper trans pan is a good idea.
 

Cubey

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Yes except that all of the diesel transmissions (I think) have the inspection cover that slopes away from the engine oil pan instead of being flat like in the picture.

If you're careful about how you drain the pan it usually doesn't make a huge mess.

Yeah the cover sorta slopes but still. I didn't take a pic today of it though. Maybe tomorrow I will.

The first open pan below is what I have currently but its a bit too narrow. I would want something wider than the pan so it can catch better in case it tries to come out differently than I expect. The second one is on sale and I can get $5 off. I think it's probably wide enough.

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FoolhardyIDI

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I drill holes and put a fine thread bolt into transmissions pans for people all the time. I drill a hole big enough to put the fine thread nut halfway into the pan. Then TIG weld the nut into place. I charge $40 to do this. Find your self someone or a shop that is willing to do this and you are set. But a cheap $30 pan with a drain plug already in it is also a great option.
 

Cubey

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I drill holes and put a fine thread bolt into transmissions pans for people all the time. I drill a hole big enough to put the fine thread nut halfway into the pan. Then TIG weld the nut into place. I charge $40 to do this. Find your self someone or a shop that is willing to do this and you are set.

Why would I pay $40 when a deeper pan is $30? I'd have to take the pan somewhere to have it modified too. A deeper pan = more fluid = better. Like how people put the PSD oil filter with 1qt more oil capacity.
 

Cubey

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What's everybody's opinion of the Power Torque and/or WIX filter btw? They both come with the pan gasket.

The Motorcraft FT52 says on Oreilly that it comes with the pan gasket, but does it? The pic only shows it with the filter gasket.
 
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