Anybody put a C6 pan w/drain?

[Cubey]

Eh, forget O'Reilly and waiting weeks.

I ordered one on Ebay for $30.xx with tax. It should be here by Thursday. Gonna be raining for several days after tomorrow, so I gotta wait until at least Thursday anyway.

I think I will get a magnetic drain oil bolt for it, since the one it probably comes with a a basic bolt.

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[Cubey]

They are taking forever to ship it. Same with a fuel line check valve from another seller. Dunno what people's problem is all of a sudden.

I wish I had known of this kit. You just drill a hole in the pan and bolt it in. Red thread locker would be a good idea so it never comes undone. It wouldn't wouldn't drain as much out, due to the nut/bolt sticking up, but it's a good budget alternative for pans without a cheap aftermarket pan available.

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[Black dawg]

those drain plug kits are a joke...the ones I have seen have no recess for the oring to go into. Much better to find a copper washer for the drain plug part.

 

[nelstomlinson]

They are taking forever to ship it. Same with a fuel line check valve from another seller. Dunno what people's problem is all of a sudden.

Is it coming from China? Looks as if China isn't going to be reopening for business for a little while yet.

 

[Cubey]

Is it coming from China? Looks as if China isn't going to be reopening for business for a little while yet.

Nah, Iowa. It's finally on the move and should be here Thursday.

 

[Thewespaul]

If you bought mine you would have it by now

 

[Cubey]

If you bought mine you would have it by now

I didn't know you had one.

I have to wait until I get a few nice days of clear weather anyway, so later this week is acceptable to wait for the one I bought.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Wes sells the anti drain back valves.

 

[Cubey]

Wes sells the anti drain back valves.

Ahh. I knew that, but thought maybe only in 3/8", not the 5/16" I needed.

 

[bigd67]

Most shops are going to want to run one of those flush machines on it and not even pull the pan. There can be a lot of metal dust and black stuff in the pan, it needs to be pulled and cleaned.

I agree also, I would pull the torque converter plug. Do you have a aux oil cooler in front of the radiator? If not, that would be more beneficial than a deeper pan on the trans.

 

[Cubey]

The old filter is the deep pan design for 4x4s, so it has definitely been changed at some point. It's paper gasket came off 100% with the filter, so I didn't have to scrape at all. The pan gasket was rubber, so no RTV or gasket to scrape there either. Well, somebody did put a few dots of RTV on the pan side of the gasket, but none on the trans side. I mostly cleaned up the OEM pan, and stashed it in the truck.

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New filter installed:

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New pan installed. I will get a magnetic plug before I fill it with new fluid, because why not? I didn't know what size the threads would be, or I would have got one ahead of time. No big deal to make a run to an auto parts store though.

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Anybody know what this little metal tag means? Just a quality control tag? You can see it in the pic above with the new filter.

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[Cubey]

I got the magnetic drain plug (1/2-20, same as the IDI plug) and a pack of white nylon washers. I needed to change the oil drain plug gasket on the engine anyway, because the reused copper one was seeping. So after I put in the magnetic one in the trans pan, I took the new basic one that came with the pan and put it in the oil drain with a new nylon gasket. The engine plug was pretty gnarled up and needed replacing really anyway. No seeping from the oil drain now.

You might ask why no magnetic on the engine right now? Eh, more cost (~$6) and the engine has a real filter, unlike the transmission. I might put one at the next oil change.

So back to the transmission...

No leaks to be found around the pan, so I guess I got it right on the first try. It looks like it might be a little seepy/moiste around the outside edge as it was soaking into the gasket. Trans fluid usually makes rubber swell, so it'll probably do that and provide a good tight seal. I saw no fluid running down the sides of the pan or dripping off the bottom.

I put in about 6qts at first and it was slipping bad from low fluid. It's so hard to get a good reading on the dipstick immediately after filling due to fluid residue in the tube. Plus it was air purging from the torque converter to, so it kept sucking down the level after I drove it, so I kept having to add more. So then I added another 2qts and it got better, perfectly driveable but still quite low after more driving and air purging. Then I got back to my mom's and cracked open the third gallon and slowly added another 2.5ts, so now it has about 10.5qts total put in after the change. That sounds about right, considering some was left in the torque converter and I forgot to drain the cooler up front.

That was all within about 3 miles, so I didn't go nuts driving far with it badly low. And really it was the first 2 miles that it was badly low (under 8qts), being topped off twice within that distance. I had to stop where I could, to add more.

It might still be a tiny bit low, but I need to let the fluid in the tube drain down fully overnight. I couldn't quote tell if it was at the ADD dot or within the arrows area (do not add area). Once the tube has a chance to fully drain, I should get able to get a good reading tomorrow.

 

[LowTech]

I totally understand about the fill tube issue. I tend to check it when it comes into camp, top up a bit, and then wait till the next morning to see how close I was.
Its definitely a pain.