Another EGT puzzle

Sjax

Registered User
Joined
May 8, 2012
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Port Angeles, WA
I am reading as many articles about EGTs as I can. In the mean time, maybe someone can help diagnose this issue with my truck.
All of my truck info (that I can think of) is in my signature.

With an empty truck, I can quickly see 1100 or more on big hills and my boost is around 3-4 psi. There is little or no smoke.
With my 1600 lb. camper in the bed, I will hit 1100 very quick on hills with the same 3-4 psi. I can only hold about 45 mph. There is a very faint amount of black smoke or sometimes no smoke.

In either case... I don't come close to full throttle, because things get too hot.
If I was pulling 6000 lbs, I wouldn't complain. but I'm pulling less than 2000 lbs.

Troubleshooting so far:
Air filter - I pulled over at a big hill, removed my air filter, and tested the truck.... no noticable difference.
Turbo compressor - I checked and it spins freely.
Wastegate - I wired the wastegate closed and plugged the line... no difference.
Boost guage - I checked the line for kinks/cracks... line looks good.

My thoughts:
I think the engine needs air.
Turbo - Possible exhaust leaks between engine and turbo ( I do see medium soot deposite around Y-pipe connection to turbo intake.
Timing - Set it last month using pulse adapter, but IP may have moved.
Perhaps it needs fuel.
Fuel filter - may be clogged, but it is one month old with less than 1000 miles on it.
IP - I should check the IP to see if it's getting hot (bad fuel filter).

I wish I knew a way to use compressed air to check for leaks between the engine exhaust and the turbo. Maybe I could set TDC, and add compressed air to the exhaust pipe. Although I doubt these systems are sealed well enough to use that method. There would probably be leaks at every junction.

Your thoughts?
 

justinray

Contributor
Joined
Jun 24, 2011
Posts
1,141
Reaction score
2
Location
Cleveland, Tx
Dps injectors suck, maybe you have a leaker. Check that. Then if all injectors check out, turn down your fuel.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
682
Location
West coast
My guess is the muffler is plugged up with soot. This does happen. Remove the muffler and make it a staright thru exhaust. This does two things. Reduces backpressure and it reduces the exhaust temp. Also if you running a factory turbo the down pipes are flattened out and create lots of backpressure and heat.
 

chvycmnslvr68

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Posts
209
Reaction score
0
Location
Ponca City OK
Move your EGT sensor to the pipe behind the turbo ... For two reasons ... one if you ever burn off the tip it will wipe out your turbo ... secondly there is about three to four hundred degrees difference between the readings ... you can run around 1400 at the exhaust manifold before melting pistons ... if you cool your engine down before topping a hill ... if you dont you could stick one quick ... so 1100 degrees in the manifold is only about eight or nine hundred behind the turbo ... Also you should check for turbo pressure leaks between the turbo and the engine heads ... its possible you are loosing intake air through a faulty boot of bad intake gasket ... exhaust side leaks have to be pretty bad before they will cause the pressure boost loss that your experiencing ...
 

typ4

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,131
Reaction score
1,431
Location
Newberg,OR
Not true, small exhaust leaks will cause a large boost drop., I bet the tips are melted on the hot wheel. 6 out of the last 10 I have done havebeen.
 

Sjax

Registered User
Joined
May 8, 2012
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Port Angeles, WA
The muffler is not plugged. I was worried about that, so I had the downpipe and new high flow muffler installed last week.
I was hoping that would bring my boost numbers up, but it didn't.
 

Sjax

Registered User
Joined
May 8, 2012
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Port Angeles, WA
Typ4... the hot side wheel is something I haven't thought about. How do I check it? Do I have to pull the whole turbo?

By the way, I'll be in your neck of the woods this weekend... riding Winchester bay July 14-17. That's why I want to get this fixed... so I can haul the toys down.
 

Sjax

Registered User
Joined
May 8, 2012
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Port Angeles, WA
Not having luck finding parts for the turbo online. Anyone know a site for parts? I'm curious how much it would be to replace the hot wheel (if it turns out to be shot).
 

Ididriver

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Posts
1,222
Reaction score
0
Location
Panama city beach
Move your EGT sensor to the pipe behind the turbo ... For two reasons ... one if you ever burn off the tip it will wipe out your turbo ... secondly there is about three to four hundred degrees difference between the readings ... you can run around 1400 at the exhaust manifold before melting pistons ... if you cool your engine down before topping a hill ... if you dont you could stick one quick ... so 1100 degrees in the manifold is only about eight or nine hundred behind the turbo ... Also you should check for turbo pressure leaks between the turbo and the engine heads ... its possible you are loosing intake air through a faulty boot of bad intake gasket ... exhaust side leaks have to be pretty bad before they will cause the pressure boost loss that your experiencing ...
I would never run a pyro post turbo too much of a difference in temps.
Here's one example. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/712308-pyro-pics-for-tim.html

And even a small exhaust leak pre turbo can KILL boost pressure.
 

Ididriver

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Posts
1,222
Reaction score
0
Location
Panama city beach
Our pistons are aluminum Wich melt at 1250 degrees.
1400 may be ok for a couple seconds pulling a hard grade but sustained will kill it.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
682
Location
West coast
If the turbo is what the factory installed then you will have no issues sourceing a hot side wheel. The hot wheel and shaft are built as one part. So do not be surprised when if you need to buy the wheel your told the shaft is part of it. Russ does bring valuable information to the table. The hot wheel material is something called Inconel. Its a high heat and abrasion proof type of metal. Very hard to weld or machine. Even grindinging it is tuff. I TIG welded it for three years.
 

Sjax

Registered User
Joined
May 8, 2012
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Port Angeles, WA
Thanks guys.

This information is exactly why I appreciate this site.

I will seal up leaks in the pre-turbo exhaust. If that doesn't bring the boost up enough...I'll pull the turbo and check the hot-side wheel.
 

riotwarrior

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Posts
14,782
Reaction score
492
Location
Cawston BC. Canada
I would never run a pyro post turbo too much of a difference in temps.
Here's one example. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/712308-pyro-pics-for-tim.html

And even a small exhaust leak pre turbo can KILL boost pressure.

THANKS FOR THAT

That...that info alone just confirms my desire to run this dual head for both L & R exhaust manifolds

You must be registered for see images


Purchase here.... http://www.farmtronics.com/proddetail.php?prod=E70070&PHPSESSID=gtovjqwayb

Then a separate pyro for post turbo info, that's the ***** right there I tell ya!

THANKS Again
 

Forum statistics

Threads
93,030
Posts
1,156,245
Members
26,620
Latest member
Bo17

Members online

Top