A lot of centrifuge crud

Discussion in 'BioDiesel & Alternative Fuels' started by Sidewinded_idi, Nov 26, 2017.

  1. leswhitt

    leswhitt Full Access Member

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    That's pretty representative of all successful setups; suck just off the bottom, drop it back on top, and run it until the fudge is minimal in the 'fuge can. Every so often check the bottom of the container to make sure nothing is accumulating.

    He does it with a barrel, I do it with a tote, some use heating oil tanks, etc.
     
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  2. bbjordan

    bbjordan Snow Monkey

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    1/4" of crud is too much for me. I let mine run until I get no more crud under the bottom plate and passages to the jets on the rotor. Maybe it's my OCD acting up, but I like it nice and clean. How long does that take? As long as it takes. It depends on how dirty the oil is. Time and gravity are your friends. I have some skank tanks that I pour the latest WMO in. I'll let it sit years! and then pump from 6" above the bottom of the barrel. It then gets boiled to remove the water. It's surprising how much water there is in it. I only boil about 2/3 of a barrel, roughly about 140 litres. There needs to be enough room in the barrel for the oil to boil, and the oil expands as it heats. It is very noticeable!

    It then gets mixed with 50% diesel and then another 10% biodiesel. Then I centrifuge it. The thinner the mix, the better the crud comes out.

    I run my mix in my 7.3 PSDs. Even in the Project Parts Truck. They like it. The engine seems to quite down and make more power. :) The mix of high cetane fuel (biodiesel rating of 50) and low cetane fuel (WMO rating of ~40) works well. I suspect the biodiesel ignites earlier and helps the WMO burn nicely later when the crank angle is more favorable.

    I use a batch system rather than a continuous run system. I never leave it unattended. Too many close calls.
    It's bad enough having to clean up a pint of oil, let alone having to deal with a whole barrel of oil/fuel.
     
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  3. CaptTom

    CaptTom Full Access Member

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    Nice! Thanks for the photo's and responses.

    What pump is that? Looks like a belt driven power steering pump. How many PSI does it deliver?

    Thanks again for the reply's!
     
  4. Shadetreemechanic

    Shadetreemechanic Full Access Member

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    If I remember right, the one in the pic came off some sort of Mitsubishi. It doesn't really matter. Its easier if you grab a pump that was originally paired with an external tank. Then the return can be straight piped in. What he did in the pic (which he copied from me) is to use a pump that has an internal tank, put a fernco fitting on the fill port and tie it to a pvc hub. It just needs to be airtight so the pump pulls out of the barrel.
    The pump I use came off a late 60s international that I was parting out. It has done several thousand gallons at this point.
    Any ps pump will get you the psi you need. Most folks run the fuge between 90 and 120 psi. Most power steering pumps do much more than that.
     
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  5. CaptTom

    CaptTom Full Access Member

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    Good stuff!

    Thanks for the explanation!
     
  6. Mr Dieselcraft

    Mr Dieselcraft Registered User

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    I have a lot of experience in the cleaning of WMO and WVO with the centrifuge.

    A few comments, the centrifuges can not take pressure over 90 PSI. Using a power steering pump is asking for a problem since they produce between 650 and 1500 psi

    You need this relief valve:
    WATTS 530-3/4 Adjustable Relief Valve,3/4 x 1/2,175psi G3453791
     

    Attached Files:

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  7. Sidewinded_idi

    Sidewinded_idi Full Access Member

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    For anyone interested just grabbed my weekly 275 gallons
    EAE1B080-0382-45A6-AA2C-BA9CD40FAC04.jpeg FB7A1D2A-5D52-4EA9-800D-8D9117E960F8.jpeg DEBFCB3F-2A1A-46B5-9278-EF233E0C237D.jpeg
     

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