A Few Engine Overhall Questions

[USNENFTS]

Alright so I am starting to research parts for my engine overhall and need some help. First thing I am looking for is clyinder sleeves, I know I have been told about L.A. Sleeve and Darton Sleeve but what is the best material to use? Doesn't this material need to match the material of the rings? If so, who and where can I get rings that will match a sleeve? Hypermax makes a performance ring and piston set but I am unsure of the materials. If I decide to get my CAMS and Crank turned, does that change the size of the bearings for the connecting rods? I may be a diesel mechanic in the navy but we always just get things in nice bundled up kits... So it's basically install and run! One last tihng, the engine lift points are on the Intake manifold correct? There are 4 "Pad-Eye's" that you could attach a shackle to? Thanks!

 

[IDIoit]

never turn a cam down. if you do this, your lobes will get smaller. which decreases your valve lift.
just buy a new one or run the one you have after checking and polishing.
roller camshafts do not wear like a flat tappet cam.

everytime you turn a crank, oversized bearings are needed. usually .010" cleans them up.
get everything magnafluxed.
when i do my rebuild, ill be getting a turbo engine core. the wrist pins are bigger.
thats about the only difference, besides the 6.9/7.3 bore size.

 

[USNENFTS]

Yeah, I was considering that but if my block is good, just sleeve it and use that. Are the cranks the same on the turbo'd version of the IDI? I wouldn't mind have thos bigger wrist pins. But, if not, that's no big deal.

 

[IDIoit]

and yes you can put shackles on those eyes.
here this may help you....
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?7639-Differences-between-a-6-9-and-7-3-IDI

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?71571-preemptive-strike&highlight=preemptive+strike

 

[USNENFTS]

Yeah, that helped haha! Still need to find where to get parts from though.... This sucks cause I want performance parts but there isn't really any out there, other than Hypermax and R&D Performance....

 

[BDCarrillo]

All of the factory forged internals should be good to go, barring any odd wear. Typ4 offers a performance cam grind.

Consider it to be more of a re-ring job than complete rebuild.

 

[IDIoit]

http://conestogadiesel.com/products.html turbos and innercoolers are our performance parts, and in your case, headgaskets

i believe harland sharpe has roller rockers for our engines.
you said money was no object! time to get some R&D done!

im sure Mel can find you a cam for street performance.

theres really no need for anything else.
the only other thing we can benefit from is coatings, and port work.
this aint a small block chevy that you can bolt some billet aluminum on and claim to have 800 ft/lbs lol

IMO, i would get over your vaginaism about cavitation and slap some headgaskets and studs on the ole pig.
theres still many more miles to be had with it.
its only a few hundred bucks and some time.

 

[IDIoit]

another good post to read, thats been burried.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?56221-Looking-for-Input-on-boring-6-9-to-7-3

 

[USNENFTS]

I know, but sleeving the engine will make the block last so much longer, never need it bored over, only re-sleeved. I mainly wanna do different cams, fuel pump, injectors, head gaskets, head studs, main girdle w/ APR studs, pistons, piston rings, sleeves, exhaust valves/springs (high temp ones) and then MAYBE later down the road get a different turbo, just bought the hypermax one and dont wanna spend 2 grand for another kit . That is what I would like to do to my engine.

 

[USNENFTS]

Yeah, that guys engine was looking nice! Them rockers are nice but I don't need them for now. I mainly want a LONG RUNNING and STRONG engine haha, I figure everything I listed I wanna do will allow me to achieve that! Just need to read up, custom things get very $$$$$$$ haha, I have money, but not A LOT lol. turbo and tires ate up quite a bit!

 

[IDIoit]

were on the same page! trust me! i already have a parts list written down in my "top secret" files.
but i have to finish paying off my company first.
when you have a truck thats down, this isnt just in the cards!
i would bet you 100 bucks that its just a headgasket that went. if it was cavitation, you would have had signs before this. cavitation does not happen over night!
you and i both are pretty new to these engines, and the more time you have working on one, the better you will be in the future.
a grown man is gonna do what a grown man wants to do, its part of the thick headed side of us.
your block has 100k miles on it, and many many people here with well over double that and their engine is still running strong with boost.
its all fun and games until you have that 1 project thats been sitting for years and you still do not have all the pieces.

so you can either rebuild the entire thing, which your truck will be down for a year,
or you can throw some headgaskets and studs at it, and see whats really inside these things.
that should take you a weekend total minus the trip to the machine shop to have the heads checked.
if you look at it, the only thing you're going to waste is time and a set of gaskets.
studs can be re-used since our engines do not have "torque to yeild" crapola.

just remember that smile you had on your face the first 500 miles of the turbo before the gaskets went...
this could be you again next week... fair winds and following seas prevailing.

besides you dont have the larger wrist pins, so youre going to have to buy some of the components neways.
i would just find another block to rebuild, and beat the existing one like you have one on the shelf ready to go....

 

[USNENFTS]

Ya know, you and the machine shop guy I just talked to found a way into my head somehow.... I am gonna pull the heads off, and go off what I see, if it is clearly just head gaskets then that is all I am gonna do. I dont want my truck sittin there forever, thats what a spare build engine is for! I want that smile on my face again! Apart of me died the day I found this! Now, should I get the heads tested and surfaced while they are off? Or just put em suckers back on? What head gaskets should i use, I want good ones!

 

[IDIoit]

im no expert on that, but search. ive seen many many threads on which headgaskets to use.
do not just slap them back on without having them checked. IF IT WAS MY TRUCK,
i would aquire another set of heads. have them done, maybe even pretty'd up on the flow numbers (research first)
and if i had the coin, get an inner cooler waiting, and or even mocked up. all the parts, hydro-idi went as far and got new lifters, which isnt a bad idea.
maybe even Mel's fuel set up, all
waiting for that one weekend you can do nothing but tear down, clean up and put back together with the help of your local bruski.

that way, you can have a fresh mind about where you put stuff and how things go together.


i would highly suggest that you get a leak down tester and do some recon before you even take the heads off. knowledge is power.

 

[USNENFTS]

Yeah,I'm gonna save the build for my spare engine as planned unless i need it for something else. I just wanna get my truck on the road. An intercooler would run me around 1,400 haha!

 

[vegas39]

I have my heads off for the same reason, gasket blew but I had some bad luck and broke a head bolt in the process. I've got to pull the rest of my engine out now and drop another spare one in there.

I called a couple places for short blocks this morning and about fell off my chair when one said 3300 and the other said 2300!
I've been following your posts for a few days and I agree with head gasket problem only and if your heads come off easily enough without issue, you will get by pretty cheap. If you plan to heave your heads re done, I just did mine last week and it only ran me 485 for both heads.
I know people say its easier to pull the motor but I've found that once the a/c box is half removed, there is plenty of room to deal with the passenger side head.