86 F250 6.9 Fuel Return Hose?

[WildWest]

I just got me a cherry 86F250 With leaking fuel return lines

They are a cloth braided covered hose

Does anyonw know of a cheap fix for this? I had thought about running the blue lined fuel injection hose but its 3.99 a foot

I have came across an entire setup for 27.99+7 Shipping that comes with all the tee's o rings copper washers etc

But as far as i can tell only two of my hose's leak id want to replace them all i gathered that the kit comes with about 6' of hose Thats 24$+tax for the Fuel injection hose at autozone.

Im told regular 1/4 fuel line wont hold up to the diesel and im trying to fix the leak not postpone it


What has everyone else done?

 

[Diesel JD]

Well, first off, I think you'll be happy with a return kit for $27.97+ shipping that's agood price. If your hoses leak its a good bet the O-rings are not far behind. Generic parts in the return system are hit and miss. For example your fuel injection rated rubber hose will hold up just fine, so will viton, neoprene, and vinyl(at least for a short/medium while). Regular fuel hose will probably break down over time, and will break down over time if you use biodiesel or WVO. I have used Orings from the hardware store in a pinch they don't last as long as real fuel system orings(unless they are chemical rated or viton ) That's not a recommended practice here though. I would get the kit, install the new hoses and orings but reuse your caps and tees unless some fo them are cracked. No need to pull the injectors unless you want to test them or you suspect a problem. In that case you would need the new copper washers. Hang on to them, as far as I know they cannot be reused and they have no close substitutes that I have found, and this is not an item you can often buy cheaply by itself. Does that help?

 

[WildWest]

So i should re use my stock tee's instead of using the new ones that come with the setup?

here is a pic of the stuff thats included

I was pretty well thinking the same thing about the O rings who knows i may have a cracked tee they are plastic after all

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[towcat]

do yourself a favor and get the kit. Change it all. Orings, caps, lines. Copper washers can be ignored since you're not pulling the injectors. you are going to learn one brutal lesson, once the plastic caps and orings have thermal cycled a few times, they set up and "freeze". touch them the wrong way, look at them the wrong way or even breathe on them the wrong way and they'll reward you with a leak. Do them all if you touch one and use vaseline on the orings before pushing on the plastic caps.
good luck!

 

[WildWest]

Yeah the truck has 97k original miles fresh paint and a few minor this and thats

Not a single glow plug works it has a new GP controller but it had a push button switch that was no longer hooked up i got a ring terminal hooked it back up to the GP Solenoid

Ive gotta get me a set of new GP and the seal kit An oil change and ill be set up for awhile.

Eventually id like to upgrade to some kind of an overdrive Transmission or maybe a higher geared rear it tachs 2000 at 50 MPH

And like everyone else id like to add a turbocharger


On a side note anyone running a PSD oil filter on these for added capacity better filtration?

It calls for a Motorcraft FL784 Stock but i had thought about the apsect of using Motorcraft FL1995

 

[towcat]

I run PSD oil filters on all IDI's that pass through my care.

 

[WildWest]

Any issues with hitting brake lines etc?

I had read some info on another forum but was vague at best.

Its only a few dollars more for the PSD filter

If i had knew about this a few weeks ago we would have gotten one for my friends 91 metro bus with the 7.3IDI It has 117k Original Miles Used to belong to a hospital for transporting patients we got it for a camper Conversion

 

[towcat]

Any issues with hitting brake lines etc?

only if the motor mounts are sagging.

 

[Agnem]

Towcat's right. Check out our fuel injection servicing article in the tech articles section, or I believe, I still have a link in my sig.

 

[WildWest]

Well i looked at it the wrong way bumped into one of the return lines while i was checking out the fast idle switch now its leaking from the the Tee too

I can only imagine the leaks i would have gotten if i had replaced all the hoses only.

I also have to replace all 8 glow plugs

I was going to go with autolite pn 1007 at 7.99 per but i am reading bad things about them

Whats the best i dont mind retrofitting an end onto a plug or the harness if i get a better setup

I have read mentions of ac glow plugs with a constant duty rating?

I pulled one plug and it was a Beru

Some other site had suggested these

http://www.indusadist.com/webmaster_004.htm

Or autozone can order me motorcrafts for 8.99 per

 

[WildWest]

So ive ordered the kit

I am going to wait until i replace the GP to do it because i might have to remove the Injectors if a tip breaks off.

When i replace the return hose should i bypass the hose going from the fuel filter to the passenger side from injector?

I heard about this leaking the filter out if the bypass valve is stuck

Figured i could install one of the drivers side front injector return caps on the pass side and braze the return port on the elbow shut unless its threaded in then i could plug it

 

[Diesel JD]

Some say you need that hose to help vent air, it must be there for a reason right. Others have eliminated it as I have, and the fuel system is possibly harder to bleed if air gets in but usually it doesn't as long as you don't run the thing out of fuel. Get yourself any glows other than champs or autolites they are usually the ones that swell up and break. The beru/motorcraft ZD1A are usually the best, other premium plugs are acceptable as long as you are using a pushbutton. No autolites please they were a euphemism for a four letter word on the diesel stop before many of us came over here. The champions are also made by Johnson Controls who makes many fine products but IDI glow plugs are not among them.

 

[WildWest]

Yeah the Zd1a is an order only item i pulled one plug out it was slightly swollen but it was A Beru i just hope the other 7 remove as easily

I have a push button wired up it was already ran but disconnected at the solenoid

One person on here suggested using oldsmobile diesel GP's said they are for 12v


When you removed the line was the port threaded or did you have to seal it up ?