84 f350 diesel fuel line and electrical drama

[techson]

I bought this truck yesterday and it ran fine on the way home.
I went this morning to get a state inspection sticker and it dies on me about 5 miles down the road. I had it towed home (ouch, not off to a good start with this one)

1. the main tank is dripping fuel and the bottom of it is mostly wet from the middle on
back. if I siphon the fuel out of this how hard is it to drop? I see the front bolt is under the carrier bearing. what am I likely to find? are these leaks common?

2. the wiring on the passenger side between the battery and the firewall has all been spliced with a couple dozen butt connectors and wire nuts, but all the lights worked yesterday and it was starting and running fine.
is there a source for wiring harnesses?

battery terminal (negative) on the drivers side battery is loose enough to spin back n forth.
I need to replace battery cables or at least a new end on the negative.
whats a good source for the cables? they're fat and look expensive!

3. Disconnect the fuel line from the lift pump at the fuel filter housing and nothing comes out when I crank it. there's a rubber cone washer there that's disintegrated so that aint going back on right away. the exit line going to the IP I took off also and the rubber cone washer looks fine. the orfice bleed off port is capped with a plastic cap and a zip tie
can I just get brass fittings for the lift pump and ff housing and do away with this line?
looks like it has a heater built into it?


I'm semitired and have more time than money but not sure about parts and where to get them. namely a new FSV valve, fuel lines and wiring harnesses for now.


many thanks in advance.

Paul

 

[Wyreth]

Welcome to the OB.

If you siphon the fuel, it's not that bad to drop either tank.

For wiring, you can try u-haul's ebay store. I know I've seen glowplug harnesses there. Also check the marketplace here. There is usually at least one truck being parted out. OR, if you're handy with a soldering iron, you could just get some appropriately colored wire, some shrink tube, and patch it back together properly. (that's the best "more time than money" solution I've got)

The rubber cone bits are called "Olives" the best source I know is a member here. PM Type4, he sells a return line kit, and olives. You should get both and just re-do the return system as well. It's a common source for air intrusion, it's not hard to replace, and the kit is cheap. I wouldn't change any of the fittings, as the olives are just dirt cheap, and they last a LONG time.

Now How much fuel was in the tank when you couldn't get the lift pump to pump? The "shower head" pickup in the tanks likes to brake off and then will not pick up fuel at less than about a 1/4 of a tank. Also, the lift pump may have died. Mine JUST did, and basicly did exactly to me what happened to you. The bleed off valve, is just a Schrader valve, so you can just go get a new schrader insert. Altho, it sounds like the engine has been replaced. Or at least monkeyed with. As an 84 should have the 6.9, which has the fuel heater on the hardline from the liftpump to the fuel filter. It wasn't until 88 when they switched it to the 7.3 that they put the heater in the filter head. The 7.3 filter is also both your filter and your water separator. The 6.9 had a separate water separator by the brake booster. That one liked to leak air after a while. If it's still in line, it could be your "no fuel" problem as well. As mine did that too me before I rebuilt it.

That's all I've got, others will chime in with better advice.

-Wy?

 

[techson]

Wy,

thanks for the reply!
olives huh ok that turned up a bunch of posts. I'll be getting some of those from Type4 hopefully.
I'm afraid I didn't make myself clear as this one DOES have the heater in the fuel line from lift pump to fuel filter. this is the one that has the disintegrated olive.
also the water seperator is still on the firewall but is not hooked up. hoses are spliced togeather to bypass it.
what i'm calling the orrfice bleed off is a small nipple on the back of the fuel filter housing that sticks up and I thought was supposed to have a hose running to the injector rail return on the passenger side. in any case this is capped off wit a plastic nipple and a zip tie around it.
the front fuel tank is supposed to be full and maybe thats why it's leaking?
the PO said they replaced the FSV but it has the original ford part number so maybe it was a junkyard pull?
the lift pump was replaced in 2009 but maybe it decided to give up its ghost anyhows. it sure would be great if an olive kit an a pump got her running.
I know I need to redo the return lines but as of now they are all dry so my first priority was to get her running and state inspected.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

thanks,

Paul

 

[techson]

I updated this thread with some pictures.
th first one shows my 6.9 fuel filter housing and heater line
the second is a closeup of the fuel filter housing that shows the nipple that's caped off
(what is this and where is it supposed to be hooked up?)
the third pic is the old water seperator that isn't hooked up
the last pic is the front injector passenger side. is the cap on the front of this supposed to have a line to the fuel filter housing ?

thanks,

Paul

 

[Wyreth]

Ok, that is the 6.9 filter head.

Yes that nipple is supposed to connect to an output line on the return cap you took a picture of. when you order the return kit from type4, and tell him you need the olives as well. He will send both sizes, and alot more than you need. Be sure to de-burr the inside of the new return caps, as there is often casting flashing in there that will slice up the new orings.

Now when you're re-doing the olives, there is one on the input line to the filter head. One on the output line, one where that line hooks up to the IP. Then there is the mysterious "4th olive" at the end of the hard return line from the IP. It's in the connection between the hardline and the T where the returns from cyl 7&8 join into the main return. The 4th olive is often overlooked.

One thing, if your water separator is bypassed, then you will need to replace it with something! Either try rebuilding it, or replace it with a different model. If water gets into your IP it will kill it DEAD. Quickly too.
Info on the stock water separator: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?18212-The-Stanadyne-Water-Seperator-Exposed

 

[techson]

Wyreth,

thanks for confirning the mystery nipple in the FF head.

I've updated my PM to Typ4 to include the return line kit with the olives, and have been studying RavenTBK's excelent writeup on replacing those return lines.

I read the info on the water seperator link you mentioned, but I'm thinking I might just be better off replacing that with the baldwin head and a spinon filter.

I'm going to try and siphon the fuel out of the front tank today and transfer it either to the rear tank or our motorhome.
I'd like to get as much fuel outa it before I try to drop the tank.

Question, if I go back with another mechanical lift pump, which one is the best to buy?

thanks,

Paul

 

[techson]

ok, so I got the front tank out today.
I can't see any damage as to why it was leaking, other than the big oring under the sending unit is pretty crusty and old.
the sending unit has the ford logo and E3TF-9275-AC
there wasn't a shower head on the pick up and I siphoned ALL the fuel outa the tank and noth is rolling around inside that I can hear...


HERE'S THE PICS

 

[techson]

thanks to type4 for getting me the olives and return lines!
they showed up today and now we are running again!
all the fuel lines from the front tank and just past the FSV have been replaced, a new lock ring and gasket for the front tank,a new WIX water seperator and base, and a new WIX fuel filter, new carter lift pump, and replaced the main 3 olives and installed the return line that was missing from the FF head to the right bank
planning on doing an oil change tomorrow and blasting the dirt dobber nests at the car wash.
if she's passes state inspection ( she will !) it's new gear oil for the tranny and rear end.
then we can start looking at suspenion and brakes.
thanks again Russ!

 

[91idi]

Don't ya love when they start to run correctly? Best feeling in the world, maybe I'm just a little to in love with idi's congratulations on getting the problems fix.