Alex G 7
Full Access Member
Yea it was stupid Ik I put everything else brand new on it and forgot. About the oil cooler stupid stupid move on my part
7.3 oil cooler problem
- Thread starter Alex G 7
- Start date
Yea it was stupid Ik I put everything else brand new on it and forgot. About the oil cooler stupid stupid move on my part
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The more complete information you give us the better we can help you. Now lets go back to the pic of the oil cooler. See item number 5. Thats the bundle that both oil and coolant flow thru. The coolant flows thru the tubes that you can see straight thru the bundl. the oil flows thru the inside area thru many baffles. It enters in the middle of the 2 rings that are a welded part of the bundle. In that pic you can't actually see where the oil enters the bundle. Only by removing the headers can you see the oil path. Now installing a used oil cooler was by this time a big mistake but you already know that. There are many ways to replace the o rings in this. Personally I use the Bessy wood clamps that are about 3 or 4 ft long. Most hardware stores sell them or something similar to them. What you do is set the clamp on a bench. Place the o rings on the bundle and not in the header ends and press it on. I use a 2x4 on each end of the Bessey clamp to cushion the soft aluminum headers. I only install one header at a time. Please test fit a header before you try it with o rings. It needs to be aligned properly or the o rings will be cut and you have a leak again. When it presses together it will be very smooth and easy to to. Watch that the bundle has the alignment tabs correctly set too go into the header ends. Please take pictures before you take the cooler apart. Then refer to them if you are confused. Use plenty of grease on the o rings. Many members have done this job and will hep explain how its done. Using a soft hammer to get the headers off is important too. A new bundle is around $400.00. The rear header is about $300.00 and the front is around $200.00. Be sure yours are not cracked. As for removing the oil cooler from the installed engine. Thats a tuff job. Usually the engine and motor mount have to be removed and the engine lifted. But because you just installed this engine it would be much easier to remove the exhaust manifold and remove it upwards. When installing the repaired cooler please use a contact type glue to hold the gaskets to the header sides. 3M super weatherstrip cement works very well here. Put it on the gasket and the header. Let it set up. then place the gasket on and it will stick very well. Be sure its aligned correctly because once it sticks you cannot move it.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Makes since now.
Lol
I'm back to just orings.
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Lol
I'm back to just orings.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Funny, I was there from the beginning....just couldnt get the info from the OP to confirm it and now it's clear as mud ROFL
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Lol
Why would details be important?
I mean come on now.
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All I can say is, your damn lucky you where not able to get a JASPER ENGINE. There are plenty of people on here and other Forums that have bought PROMAR engines and all have been very pleased with them including myself, mine personally has run without a hitch since 2008. If you had a stripped bolt hole, I'm quite sure Promar would have exchanged the engine. Since your in NJ, they might have very well sent someone to repair that hole.
Alex G 7
Full Access Member
i find that hard to believe just because every time I called they told me it wasn't their problem which I thought was just wrong
leftcoastjeff
Frankentruck lover
this may help you, some pics.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?33474-Oil-cooler-removal
good luck,
LCjeff
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?33474-Oil-cooler-removal
good luck,
LCjeff
