ClemsonIDI
Registered User
I'll find out tomorrow. My luck I'll have some 1 in a thousand phenomenon. I'll post some pictures once I know more.
7.3 IDI Injector Stuck in Head
- Thread starter ClemsonIDI
- Start date
F350camper
BOOST!
cool, keep us posted. I think you'll be fine, I've seen them get stuck like that a couple of times, and Gary and Jasper have probably seen it a hundred times. They've got you pointed in the right direction.
ClemsonIDI
Registered User
Got that bad boy out of there. I guess the copper washer is still in there if there is one. Any tips on how to get it out. I pryed up and turned it at the same time. Came right out. Also a lot of carbon build up. Can anyone direct me to a thread about how to make sure the piston is at tdc so I don't drop chunks in there? I tried posting pictures. I'm not sure if it will work.
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ClemsonIDI
Registered User
Still confused why fuel was coming up out of where the injector screws in. The truck has about 143k. They look like original injectors. Should I just go ahead and change them?
gandalf
Senior Member
That injector bore look s pretty nasty. I'd suggest some serious cleaning before anything goes back in.
Where is the copper washer? It's certainly not on the injector you're showing us. That leaves only three options. 1) It could have fallen off between injector removal and picture, 2) It could still be down in the bore hole, 3) It might never have been in there. If it fell off, then it's your job to find it. If it's still in the bore, get it out. If it wasn't in there to begin with then that would cause fuelk to come out around the threads.
If it's still in the bore you'll have to work to get it out. Find a good dental pick and try to catch the underneath edge and worry it loose. Option 2 is to find the right size flat blade screw driver, one which will fit just a little through the hole in the middle. Tap it down gently, then rock it back and forth, gently. Maybe twist it a bit. If you do this with the screw diver be mindful of the bore hole seat right under the copper washer. You very definitely do not want to scratch that seat. You can ruin the copper washer, but don't scratch the bore hole seat. For either of these procedures you will want to be sure the copper washer is, in fact, in there, and you're not trying to break loose the bore hole seat.
If the copper washer is not, was never, in there, clean all that nasty stuff out and go from there. Suggestion: I believe that a 12 ga shotgun brush will fit fairly well. At least that's what I've heard.
Diesile
Full Access Member
They 'could be' fine but historically they are near the end of their dependable
life. Thing is, a new pump should accompany an injector change out so if $$
are short hopefully that old one will work until pump and injectors are an
option.
life. Thing is, a new pump should accompany an injector change out so if $$
are short hopefully that old one will work until pump and injectors are an
option.
ClemsonIDI
Registered User
I got the copper washer out with a pick. Now I'm trying to figure out how to get all the carbon out of the bore without it going into the motor.
gandalf
Senior Member
I was intending to add a picture of a new injector, just for s&g's. It will give you a better idea of what to look for.
BTW, I was unable to add a picture on edit. So, I'll do it in the second post.
BTW, I was unable to add a picture on edit. So, I'll do it in the second post.
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Won't matter if the piston is at TDC or not, there's still a pre-cup.
Put a shop vac over the injector hole and shoot compressed air into the glowplug hole.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Put a shop vac over the injector hole and shoot compressed air into the glowplug hole.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
ClemsonIDI
Registered User
That's what I figured. I wasn't really planning on spending that kind of money in it right now. I just had it at the transmission shop a few months ago. New reverse and 5th slider along with a clutch and flywheel$$$$$$. I like the truck, but it's starting to turn into a money pit. I guess I'll try to get it cleaned up. Hopefully it will make it until after tax time.
You should post the results you posted here over on the "thedieselstop" so people over there won't waste there time like I did there.
If you could keep tightening the injector like you said, then something is wrong with the threads.in the head.
Trucker87
If you could keep tightening the injector like you said, then something is wrong with the threads.in the head.
Trucker87
ClemsonIDI
Registered User
Thanks for the tip on the brush. I've got a copper 20 ga brush I'm lubing with some wd40. Seems to be working great.
ClemsonIDI
Registered User
Sorry you felt like you wasted your time. I deleted the post on the other site.
IMHO the upper is stuck in a mass of carbon buildup.
You can attempt to put some lateral pressur on the top of injector...side to side and for and aft. This may work it enough to slip it up..
It may require a side hammer or some variant of said tool to work upper half out. Then grimd down threads to creat a tool to thread into lower section and again...slide hammer it out.
I had a special tool made from an old injector just for this purpose.
Patience is your friend.
You can attempt to put some lateral pressur on the top of injector...side to side and for and aft. This may work it enough to slip it up..
It may require a side hammer or some variant of said tool to work upper half out. Then grimd down threads to creat a tool to thread into lower section and again...slide hammer it out.
I had a special tool made from an old injector just for this purpose.
Patience is your friend.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Good that you were able to remove the injector in one piece. Also happy reading you got the copper gasket out too. Now cleaning off all the built up carbon in the injector bore is VERY IMPORTANT.. Use the shop vac and a sharp pointed screw driver to break loose the carbon. Finally you really need to know of the seat in the head is cut. I suspect it is. Thats why the carbon gets past the copper gasket. Remember there is around 450 plus lbs of compression and as much as 1200 degrees of temps when the engine is running hard. All this pressure and heat will cut copper and cast iron. Look closely at the copper gasket for a black cut. Then purchase a harbor freight dental pick kit. Use the pointed pick to drag it around the seat in the head. If there is a cut in the cast iron seat the point of the pick will stop moving. You then need the seat reamer.
