7.3 idi HARD cold start

['94IDITurbo7.3]

is this issue and the other thread you have about hard start when HOT on the same truck?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

NVM, i went and checked your other thread. two different trucks.

 

[trucknorris]

plug up a volt meter to a glow plug, and see if you are getting any voltage..

 

[prepowerstroke]

well we threw two new batteries in it at we figured out if you run the glow plugs 2 or 3 times befor you try to start it it will start in about 10-15 secs of cranking

 

[Boston]

I had a similar problem with my truck, on the advice of one of the forum members I just abandoned the GP system entirely and use ether, works like a charm, every time. So rather than fight and struggle with what looks to be a chronic issue with these trucks, I'd be inclined to pass on the suggestion and just go with one of the ether starting systems.

 

[prepowerstroke]

well i found out that the switch that we had to throw power to the glow plugs was week be i jumped the wires together and that thing fired right up

 

[Pino2234]

Voltage Specs

well i found out that the switch that we had to throw power to the glow plugs was week be i jumped the wires together and that thing fired right up

Why would the switch that actuates the glow plug relay matter if it's weak? All it does it kick the solenoid on which then completes the connection for the bigger wires and supplies power to the glow plugs.

plug up a volt meter to a glow plug, and see if you are getting any voltage..

How many volts should be at the glow plugs on the 6 volts systems and how many should be at the 12 volts systems? I have around 10 volts going to my 12 volt glow plugs, this probably causes them not heat fully, but is it hurting that much? Will 12 volts at the glow plugs make a big difference?

It sure sounds like the glow plugs to me..... I finally found the ring terminal on the 2 heavy wires carrying current in to the contactor (controller) was bad. It showed hot most all the time, but wouldn't supply the necessary power. I stripped the wires, put on a new terminal and it has been great.....

EDIT: I just saw all your gp's are new as are most components of the system. I would run BRAND NEW wires from the fender mounted solenoid to the constant hot terminal on the contactor (relay looking thing on top of the controller). The new wires would replace the (2) heavy power wires that supply power to the entire gp system. These wires carry so much power, they were undersized from the factory and are a known problem area, specifically the first plastic connector mounted on the passenger wheel well if you traced the wires back from the contactor.

You said necessary power wasn't being supplied, how many volts was being supplied at first? How many after you corrected the issue?

 

[idiabuse]

hey I would rather plug in the truck than to use the glow plugs, the cold starts are torture on the upper cylinders.

Just listen to the difference in engine noise cold and hot.
Cold 15W40 wont reach the top of the engine for a good 5 minutes until it has thinned out and warmed up.

Not to mention you use a bunch more fuel on a cold start.

I plug in my truck every morning and I live in Miami Fl!


Javier

 

[Jbevs]

Not to revive a dead thread, but I wanted to respond. When the plugs should have been getting power they were getting none. There was power to the glow plug controller until the controller tried to light the plugs. Then it would lose most all power. It was troublesome to track down as I had power to the controller everytime I checked it, until the last time 2 months later. So 0 volts supplied prior to fix, then 12ish after the fix. It's been a while and I don't really remember.

 

[prepowerstroke]

Why would the switch that actuates the glow plug relay matter if it's weak? All it does it kick the solenoid on which then completes the connection for the bigger wires and supplies power to the glow plugs.



How many volts should be at the glow plugs on the 6 volts systems and how many should be at the 12 volts systems? I have around 10 volts going to my 12 volt glow plugs, this probably causes them not heat fully, but is it hurting that much? Will 12 volts at the glow plugs make a big difference?



You said necessary power wasn't being supplied, how many volts was being supplied at first? How many after you corrected the issue?

Well the switch ran the main power to the glow plug solinoid


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[Oldiron]

To be clear, how many volts are supposed to be supplied to the glow plug itself?

To test ill disconnect one of the glow plug connectors and attach my multi meter positive lead, then black lead to battery neg. Then ill set my meter on the windshield, climb in and hold the over ride button.

What should be seen?
Does it matter if all the other connectors are still connected?

 

[Macrobb]

To be clear, how many volts are supposed to be supplied to the glow plug itself?

To test ill disconnect one of the glow plug connectors and attach my multi meter positive lead, then black lead to battery neg. Then ill set my meter on the windshield, climb in and hold the over ride button.

What should be seen?
Does it matter if all the other connectors are still connected?

You should get about battery voltage minus (at most) 2V. Hopefully 9-10V.
The more glow plugs connected(and the colder they are), the lower the voltage - due to more load on the GP controller resistor and wires.

 

[Oldiron]

And that's my problem. Battery voltage going into the solenoid and when I hold the button 5.8 coming out and it rises to about 7.