idibeast1986
Registered User
I have a 6.9 idi factory hard to start cold or hot very confused on the hot part after letting it sit for 10 min. Or so. Other than that she don't miss a beat .running svo
6.9 hard start cold or hot.???
- Thread starter idibeast1986
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Powerstrokin350
Registered User
How do you mean "hard start". Is it crank slower than normal and not want to kick over, kinda like low volts, or does it crank at normal speed, just takes some time to finally catch? Could be a slightly tired starter or batteries, to fuel siphoning out of lines.
idibeast1986
Registered User
Turns over good just hard to start. Even when ive been driving for a good bit. Kill the truck let it sit and go back turn it over won't start bump a tad ether mist and boom fires up runs perfect.
Powerstrokin350
Registered User
Stop using ether! That stuff is like throwing sand in your cylinders. It will scar and damage your cylinders, and what my instructors taught me in Diesel engines tech was too much use if ether and your engine becomes "addicted" to ether. Next time it sits for a while, pull the fuel filter to make sure it full of diesel. Could be diesel leaking back to tank because of a small leak. Once fired up check all fittings for diesel seepage/small leaks, return lines, everything, if it leaks diesel anywhere after the pump, it could be letting air in while sitting and slowly letting fuel to drain back, then when you go to start you have to crank to fill up the fuel system. How long have you had to use ether, how many miles on the Injection Pump and/or engine? I just finished having hard/impossible to start whenever my engine was hot. I'd run GP and fire right up in the morning, take kids to school come back home. Go to leave an hour later and it would crank forever and never fire up. Mine was the IP worn out, so when the engine sat warm the housing would stay hot and expanded while the internals would cool down and shrink. Therefore I would lose the tight tolerances inside my IP and it wouldn't creat enough pressure. If you do need to use a "starting" fluid, I use WD-40, that way it has some lubricating properties. These engines will burn anything.
bbjordan
Snow Monkey
You are running Straight Vegetable Oil? Are you starting it and shutting down on diesel? If not, you will wind up with a set of gunked up injectors. I would not recommend running SVO without a proper system. If you have access to a pop tester, you might want to test your injectors.
mjs2011
Full Access Member
X2 on what bbjordan said. Do you have a dedicated system for veg oil, or are you just putting in in your tank. Even with the two factory tanks, you will get wvo mixed in with your diesel fuel. This is because when you switch from oil back to diesel, it begins returning immediately to the diesel tank what was in the return lines. This is the oil that you want to keep separate from your diesel. Oil will run just fine when warm, but when cold, it will be hard to start, or won't start at all when cold enough.
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mjs2011
Full Access Member
Also, with the hard starts when hot, what you can do is pour a bit of water in the IP to cool it down when hot, then try starting it. Others will correct me if I'm wrong. What it does is cools the whole pump down so that all the tolerances are tight again, and it can continue to pump fuel.
Before we can give much more help, we need to know about your veg oil system.
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Before we can give much more help, we need to know about your veg oil system.
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Powerstrokin350
Registered User
This is what I had to do before I got a junk yard IP, money is beyond tight right now, for me. But I luckily four one that looked clean as hell and now that I got it in, it's working way better than my old one. And I think it maybe tuned up more than mine was, more power and when I floor it it puts out a good amount of smoke. I actually see people Chang lanes to get out from behind me.
idibeast1986
Registered User
I have a another IP not sure the shape of inside . But the engine has over 400 000 miles not sure about the IP as far as svo I filter it thru filters all the way down to a 1 micron . I have a one tank in bed . I usually put shop light under hood to keep top warm and plug in my block heater. Just put a set of injectors in . After couple more cups of coffee I'm going to start checking for leaks . Has to be loosing prime. I hope lol
mjs2011
Full Access Member
Could be losing prime, check leaks all around. Did you replace the return lines when you did injectors? It could be sucking air there as well.
Also, it could be a worn pump.
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Also, it could be a worn pump.
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idibeast1986
Registered User
Well . Starter fried. So have to get a new one. Thinking slow turning over was a lot of my problem been noticing for a while being sluggesh at turning over new batteries and had to put on charge to crank fast enough . I'll keep informed after new starter is installed.
Powerstrokin350
Registered User
I'll bet that's it. Mine was like this not long after I got it, and it sounded like it was only 100 rpm's slower, but that speed matters a bunch when starting. (#2
)
)
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
400,000 miles is getting to be long in the tooth, even for these engines. I'll bet you are suffering from multiple problems.
(1) a compression check will help you know about your engine health.
(2) do you have working glow plugs? Since you have been using ether, I suppose not.
(3) the IP trick is: wrapping a rag soaked in cold water around the IP when hot, to determine a "hot soak" condition. That means if it works well after being cooled, your IP is done, time to change.
(4) what they ^ said about running straight Veg oil.
(5) Fresh batteries will help spin the engine fast enough to start (presuming all other conditions are being met).
(6) choose your starter for your own needs. Delco starters spin just as fast as gear reduction (Denso, et al), but are heavy and may be expensive.
(7) Live in the real world. Just because the truck used to start every time using diesel 300,000 miles ago, you don't have the same conditions burning french fry oil in an aged engine with a worn IP and maybe clogged injectors or no working glow plugs.
(1) a compression check will help you know about your engine health.
(2) do you have working glow plugs? Since you have been using ether, I suppose not.
(3) the IP trick is: wrapping a rag soaked in cold water around the IP when hot, to determine a "hot soak" condition. That means if it works well after being cooled, your IP is done, time to change.
(4) what they ^ said about running straight Veg oil.
(5) Fresh batteries will help spin the engine fast enough to start (presuming all other conditions are being met).
(6) choose your starter for your own needs. Delco starters spin just as fast as gear reduction (Denso, et al), but are heavy and may be expensive.
(7) Live in the real world. Just because the truck used to start every time using diesel 300,000 miles ago, you don't have the same conditions burning french fry oil in an aged engine with a worn IP and maybe clogged injectors or no working glow plugs.
idibeast1986
Registered User
Glow plugs don't work relay is new this is my first Diesal and I'm still in the learning stage. Need to do a compression test but still need to get starter Tuesday and put it on.
Zxmazza
Registered User
After it fires does it just run rough like its cold to start or does it fire into high rpms before the normal (rough when cold)?
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