6.9 conversion in the Bronco

HiWayMan

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BigNorm said:
Thanx for the link. I'm leaning more towards the 6.9 again just for ease of install. I need to find a cheap donor. :)

You're welcome. Sounds like a great plan. Please keep us posted on your progress and don't forget the pictures....




Al
 

Agnem

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That guy did a nice job on that 4bt, but golly gee.... I'd like to know the hours he's got into it compared to mine. You could do my 6.9 swap in a day if you had the help, and didn't care about neatness or paint.
 

HiWayMan

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[QUOTE You could do my 6.9 swap in a day if you had the help, and didn't care about neatness or paint.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, you're probably right... That reminds me of a question I had for you, Mel. I followed your threads on the Moosetang but tell me again briefly how you did the motor mounts.. No photo's of it that I could find in the " Moosetang" link.. Much fabrication involved? Thanks..




Al
 
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BigNorm

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I've been thinking of the conversion and I'm very excited. I want to gather parts (there's alot of them) so I can do the whole project at once. I want to pull the Bronco body completely. Once I have that gone I'll add the F250/F350 crossmember (I hacked mine) and drop the engine in. I want to move the engine itself as far as possible close to the center of the frame. I'm thinking maybe 2 feet inward from stock. I'll stack a C6 trans behind it and a NP203/205 doubler for plenty of gearing options. I'll retain the D60 front and 14Bolt rear I have with lockers in both ends and 5.13s and top off the package with 44" tires. I'm still undecided between TSLs, Boggers, and Ground Hawgs. I like the hawgs for the harder rubber compound. It'd be so cool to commute my rig to work. Once the foundation has been laid I'll stack a Ranger cab on top of it. I plan on totally stripping the interior and hacking the crap out of the floor and making an access cover (similar to like a van) so the rear of the engine can be accessed with it moved rearward. This will also facilitate keeping the cab as low as possible I had also considered lowering the truck even further than it is now since I wouldn't have to worry about my tie rod (I've got high steer) hitting the engine any more. I would top off the project with an exocage. People keep telling me the 6.9/7.3 won't wheel. I think this package could prove them wrong. My name is Norm, and I'm a wrenchaholic.
 
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Agnem

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There was no motor mount fabrication required. Just unbolt the mounts and mounting plates from the donor vehicle, and put them in the Bronco. The passenger side will bolt up at all 4 holes, and the drivers side will match up one hole, and then you have to drill 2 others. That's it. No welding or cutting needed, although I did get out the torch to get rid of the riveted on factory motor mounts.
 

HiWayMan

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Agnem said:
There was no motor mount fabrication required. Just unbolt the mounts and mounting plates from the donor vehicle, and put them in the Bronco. The passenger side will bolt up at all 4 holes, and the drivers side will match up one hole, and then you have to drill 2 others. That's it. No welding or cutting needed, although I did get out the torch to get rid of the riveted on factory motor mounts.

That's excellent. Didn't realize it was so easy. Got me thinking about doing that in a 78 Bronco. Hope I will avoid crossmember issues in the 78... Thanks....




Al
 

BigNorm

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Agnem said:
There was no motor mount fabrication required. Just unbolt the mounts and mounting plates from the donor vehicle, and put them in the Bronco. The passenger side will bolt up at all 4 holes, and the drivers side will match up one hole, and then you have to drill 2 others. That's it. No welding or cutting needed, although I did get out the torch to get rid of the riveted on factory motor mounts.
I would like to get the crossmember back in there since I hacked the bottome out of mine. Don't do this. I learned the hard way that you need the bracing there for the steering box. so I tied the crossmember sections together with a piece of 1/2" plate It keeps the steering box from pushing the frame rails apart but I'd rather have a whole crossmember again.
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What do you think of the rest of the plan? I think moving the entire drivetrain rearwards will help vehicle stability. The ranger cab will be heavily modified as well having to modify the firewall and the floor. I'm thinking I can only go in so much before it interferes with the go peddle. I want to lift the cab as little as possible but lifting it 2-4" may still be necessary. Also electric fans will be the way to go with the engine moved rearwards. Hmmm. Or not I could always just move the core support rearwards which will mean I won't have to modify the hood and make it longer. I'm also considering eliminating the body mounts and to make a solid frame structure on the bottom of the cab (sliders included) This will tie everything into the frame itself. Once done with the exocage I imagine it will be very rigid. Take Care. NORM
 
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