G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
Ya definatly now looking into a cheaper route, wheather it's the junk yard or ?? I tried to put the order in, but clould'nt hit the button. I mean 200.00 is a lot to spend on an alternator..
3G alternator swap.
- Thread starter G.W BUFFALO
- Start date
Ya definatly now looking into a cheaper route, wheather it's the junk yard or ?? I tried to put the order in, but clould'nt hit the button. I mean 200.00 is a lot to spend on an alternator..
its kinda a ridiculous amount when there's ten of them at the local yard, all in pretty good shape. I even found one with threads on the topside and a long enough wiring harness to make the installation a piece of cake. One $8 piece of 0 gauge wire later and its in. Even just transferred my pulley set off the old one and onto the new one, cut down that bushing and reused it.
Now on to that damn steering column thing and the flexible dip stick
Now on to that damn steering column thing and the flexible dip stick
redmondjp
Full Access Member
OK, I'll throw in my $.02 since I have bought four of these 3G alternators out of the local pick-a-part over the past couple of years. It is very easy to do a basic check of the alternator out in the yard.
Step one - spin test. You can listen for any abnormal bearing noise. Noisy bearings aren't necessarily a deal-breaker, since they are easily replaceable. But if you've got plenty of cars/alternators to pick from, you might as well try to get one with good bearings in it.
Step two - remove the regulator/brush assembly (you'll need a Torx T15 or T20 bit) and inspect the slip rings on the rotor - if the grooves are worn in more than 1/8" I'd keep looking. You can also check the remaining wear on the brushes, which should be worn evenly. If one brush is worn all the way down and the other one still has plenty of life on it, skip that alternator! One of the JY alternators I got a couple of years ago was burning through only one of the two brushes very rapidly (I put two brush assemblies on it in just over a year). I finally replaced the entire alternator with another JY unit and have not had a problem since.
You can also do a continuity check of the rotor if you have an ohmmeter with you, one lead to each slip ring - should be a few ohms IIRC.
Oh, bring a paper clip which you will need to reinstall the regulator/brush assembly onto the back of the alternator - straighten out the paper clip and use it to hold the brushes inside their holders until the regulator is bolted back onto the alternator.
And I would look for an alternator with the factory regulator on it. The aftermarket regulators don't have the Ford part numbers on them, and some of the aftermarket stuff is junk as I am sure many of you are aware.
But the bearings, voltage regulator, and brush assembly (available separately from the regulator) are all easily replaceable on this alternator, so if you are mechanically-inclined enough to do a 3G swap, you should have no problem changing out any of these parts on a JY alternator.
The 3G which will fit our trucks is most commonly found on 1990s Taurus and Mercury Sables, and there are plenty of them in the boneyards right now (but in 10 years, forget about it!).
HTH!
Step one - spin test. You can listen for any abnormal bearing noise. Noisy bearings aren't necessarily a deal-breaker, since they are easily replaceable. But if you've got plenty of cars/alternators to pick from, you might as well try to get one with good bearings in it.
Step two - remove the regulator/brush assembly (you'll need a Torx T15 or T20 bit) and inspect the slip rings on the rotor - if the grooves are worn in more than 1/8" I'd keep looking. You can also check the remaining wear on the brushes, which should be worn evenly. If one brush is worn all the way down and the other one still has plenty of life on it, skip that alternator! One of the JY alternators I got a couple of years ago was burning through only one of the two brushes very rapidly (I put two brush assemblies on it in just over a year). I finally replaced the entire alternator with another JY unit and have not had a problem since.
You can also do a continuity check of the rotor if you have an ohmmeter with you, one lead to each slip ring - should be a few ohms IIRC.
Oh, bring a paper clip which you will need to reinstall the regulator/brush assembly onto the back of the alternator - straighten out the paper clip and use it to hold the brushes inside their holders until the regulator is bolted back onto the alternator.
And I would look for an alternator with the factory regulator on it. The aftermarket regulators don't have the Ford part numbers on them, and some of the aftermarket stuff is junk as I am sure many of you are aware.
But the bearings, voltage regulator, and brush assembly (available separately from the regulator) are all easily replaceable on this alternator, so if you are mechanically-inclined enough to do a 3G swap, you should have no problem changing out any of these parts on a JY alternator.
The 3G which will fit our trucks is most commonly found on 1990s Taurus and Mercury Sables, and there are plenty of them in the boneyards right now (but in 10 years, forget about it!).
HTH!
Optikalillushun
Registered User
3.8L v6s! also some windstars.
typ4
Full Access Member
I have a 100 amp 1g large case with 26k on it, came off a moho. Cheap if interested.
I know you want a 3g but if bucks are tight.
I know you want a 3g but if bucks are tight.
G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
Will pm you typ4 when i get home, at work rite now, im interested.. thanks
hmmm, maybe next time I'm out at the yard I'll grab an extra one just in case. The one I got spun really well, which is about the only test I did, well that and it was the newest "looking" one I found and was on a low mileage something, I wasn't really paying attention, just walking the isles looking fur that specific alternator. Saw a bunch of them, then went back for the best one in the pile.
does make me kinda want to tear one apart tho and see what up.
does make me kinda want to tear one apart tho and see what up.
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