1999 with Transmission issues

[NCheek]

Ok guys, I'm on dial-up here in the boonies, so hit me with some info before I come back to check in a hour or so...

I am currently trying to diagnose the promlems with the transmission on my brother's truck. It is a 1999 F-250 4x4. It has a 7.3L diesel, 4R100 transmission, 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, DP tuner with 40hp Tow and 80hp economy tunes, and Isspro boost Pyro and Trans temp gauges.

The problem started Thursday when my brother realized that the transmission was shifting in an abnormal way and noticed that the "OD off" light was flashing away. Because this all happened within a half-mile of the house, he went ahead and got it home under its own power. After parking it in the driveway, he noticed that a leak had developed under the truck, and the source seemed to be somewhere between the engine and transmission. Since the whole issue began, the truck drove maybe 1/2 mile and then the distance to load and unload it from the trailer.

Now, fast-forward to today. I got home to this aforementioned novel around 10:30p last night. He gets me up to speed on the whole issue and we make our way to the truck, picking up and obligatory 2 gallons of ATF on the way. So I fire up the truck with the transmission in neutral, and above the noise of the engine is this amplified "metal on metal" type sound, almost like a harmonic amplification of the engine. Next, I put the transmission in drive, and the noise initially went away, but slowly returned. When the transmission was returned to neutral, the sound stayed. I repeated this several times for consistency, and then put 1.5 gallons of ATF into the transmission. I started the truck again, and the sound was the same, except this time, when I put it in drive, the sound did not go away. Instead, it added a slight pulsing, almost knocking type sound. Needless to say, the "testing" stopped there... And since adding fluid back to the transmission, it hasn't leaked.

Right now, I am on my way to drain the fluid and see if there are any shavings, but in the mean time, what do you guys think? Is it time to call the boys at Brian's Truck Shop, or is this something that I could fix on my own?

 

[trackspeeder]

You will have codes stored. (flashing OD light)

Sounds like the torque converter is dieing.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

sounds like tc goin south, other possibilty because the niose goes away is a broken flex plate.
normally the TC is a steady sound,
drop the insp cover and see if u see any cracks in the flexplate

 

[NCheek]

Thanks guys!

Trackspeeder: The only problem with the truck throwing codes is that the batteries died between the incident and today, so no flashing light...

Double-S-Diesel: I'll go check for cracks in the flex plate now...

After draining the fluid, I didn't find any metal particles, so maybe we got lucky... Keep the suggestions coming!!!

 

[botcher]

After draining the transmission did you pull the pan? There’s a magnet in the pan and it may have caught the debris… The gasket should be reusable. I may have missed it but how many miles on the trans?

 

[NCheek]

Didn't pull the pan, maybe tomorrow... When my dad got the truck it had 30K miles on it, and unless it was fooled with in those 30K, we haven't messed with it. The truck has 164K
on it now.

I would not be surprised if the reason behind all of this is the increased power with the DP Tuner, especially with the shift program on the economy tune... I always hated the way it locked up into overdrive at 50, always seemed sluggish to lock completely...

 

[NCheek]

Late last night, we pulled the pan and found a completely covered magnet... All the droplets that were hanging on the valvebody were nice bright red, but the dregs that remained in the pan were dark. I think the plan for today is going to be draining the TC, and removing the Transfer case to get ready for the transmission removal.

Is it feasible to replace the Torque Converter, change the filter, flush the lines, and change the trans fluid with engine oil for the next two or three intervals? OR does it warrant full replacement?

 

[trackspeeder]

What was on the magnet? If it black mud like stuff, that would be normal. If you have shiny metallic stuff that is not normal. Shiny metal is internal parts quitting on you.

Change out the converter. Flush the cooler and lines. You might want to add a Magnafine inline filter on the return line. Fill it up and drive it. No need to change the fluid again for awhile.

When you install the converter make sure it seated all the way. You will have about an inch from the edge of the bell housing to the torque converter.

 

[69oiler]

while you're at it, upgrade to a multi-disk torque converter. i replaced mine with a stock ford unit (TC rattle) and it's the biggest mistake i've made with this truck. i still have mushy shifts and lousy TC clutch lockup. i have made do by careful/gentle driving but i WISH i could just put my right foot down and go...and this is with a stock early '99 7.3


there are shift kits & upgraded valve bodies available too but if the money is only there for one upgrade, spend it on a good TC. spend the extra money for a good converter, or you'll wish you had.

 

[NCheek]

Ok, so who makes the "best" Triple disc converter? ATS, Suncoast, B&D, (fill in the blank)...? I feel more assured that I can get away with a line flush and a TC change, since 98% of the magnet's debris was the "black mud" but there were a few shavings which I assume are result of the dying torque converter.

 

[69oiler]

Mike the owner of the site has a recommendation for a good relatively inexpensive hi-po converter...i skope with him about it once but i forget what he said. i'll PM him and ask him to post here.

 

[NCheek]

Anyone else want to speak your mind about triple disc converters?

 

[69oiler]

i PMed Mike, no answer.

Nick tried to talk me into the Suncoast when i did mine. i was too cheap. hindsight is 20/20

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

Ive had suncoast before, no complaints here.
I belive racer X has some cheaper ones, also john wood has one too I believe.
ats has a bad rap.

My best advice , wit 164k just do the whole trans, put the upgraded clutches in and forget about it
If ya put a new TC in and the trans smokes, guess what so does that $$$$ converter.

 

[botcher]

My best advice , wit 164k just do the whole trans, put the upgraded clutches in and forget about it
If ya put a new TC in and the trans smokes, guess what so does that $$$$ converter.

I Second that. If you got 164k on the transmission and stuff sticking to the magnet I’d look at doing or replacing the whole trans before spending $900.00+ on just a TC.