1991 Engine Swap Electrical

[jhenegh]

So I put a 1989 7.3 into my 1991 that had a cavitated 7.3. Everything is 99% identical on these engines, only difference was the '89 was mated to a C6, so I swapped the FIPL over (that's another thread) and took off the kickdown rod.

NOW, plugged in all the wires and whenever I hook up a battery the fuel solenoid on the IP clicks and a relay/solenoid over by the brake reservoir on the driver side clicks on immediately. Regardless of key position or if the key is even in I have 3 lights on; the battery light, the engine light, and the Rear ABS. Clearly I've got a wire wrong somewhere or a short. Glow plugs are not cycling and I have no Wait to Start

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light in the cab. Starter works fine through.

I reused all the wiring that was on the front clip, only wiring from the '89 I used is the GP/engine harness. I swapped the GP controller off of the '91. The one on the '89 had all its wires cut for some reason so I mimicked how it was plugged into the '91. Both the '91 and '89 engine had a melted disconnect from the engine to front clip wiring, so that I thought was actually convenient that they were the same there too! (see picture)

What could I have done wrong? Stuff is getting power when everything is supposed to be off

 

[franklin2]

Unplug the connector on the ignition switch under the dash on top of the column. Does the ip still click? If so, you are getting voltage fed backwards, if I remember correctly this is a red/lightgreen wire. This wire goes several different places in the engine compartment as well as the ip. Start looking around and unplugging stuff that the red/lightgreen wire goes to till you get rid of the voltage.

 

[jhenegh]

I remember a red wire with a green tracer that I connected to the GP controller. Possible I got it on the wrong stud on the GP solenoid?

 

[franklin2]

It's probably going to be something like that, and it's backfeeding voltage onto the wire.