oregon96psd
Full Access Member
100% incorrect......put the back two drivers side studs in the head and hold in with a zip tie
1987 6.9 Rebuild
- Thread starter mr.cody.daniel
- Start date
100% incorrect......put the back two drivers side studs in the head and hold in with a zip tie
mr.cody.daniel
Registered User
Sweet. Got the heads back, heaved-ho with our 3man team and got 'em placed. Rebuilt everything back up... Primed the lines......... And she started!
No smoke now, well a bit under load, think it's IP timing advance. Will fiddle soon.
Didn't realize you needed new copper washers under the injectors. So now my injectors all leak at the body. Will fix tomorrow.
But other than that... well.. I think she's a runner!
No smoke now, well a bit under load, think it's IP timing advance. Will fiddle soon.
Didn't realize you needed new copper washers under the injectors. So now my injectors all leak at the body. Will fix tomorrow.
But other than that... well.. I think she's a runner!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Yes, We recommend changing the copper gaskets under the injectors. What happens is they are soft but after work hardening from all the heat and cool cycles its tuff to make them seal. If you can remove them without damage you can anneal them easily. Just heat them up on the kitchen stove flame till they turn blue. Then drop them in cold water. Then its a good idea to use a smooth file to file off any compression marks. Do that on both sides. Then install and torque to 35 lbs. Its plenty of work doing that and these are usually free at any better injection pump repair shop. If you had to pay for them I think $2.00 is the most I would pay for them.
mr.cody.daniel
Registered User
Removed all the copper gaskets and all looked severely work hardened, with large circular raised sections left from the injector face. Went to the hardware store and picked up 1/4" copper washers. Drilled out with a size L drill, putting the I.D. .004" over nominal. O.D. is a few thousands over as well, but very close. Straight filed and finished with #0000 steel wool for a very fine surface finish.
Installed last night and torqued down, but didn't have my torque wrench with me to check torque. I suspect it's 25-30. Currently getting no firing and some gas leaking on the head.
Could not find anyone local that had just the copper gaskets. May have to break down and get the injector install rebuild kit for $60.00 Ooooof...
Anyone ever try the DIY route with the copper crush gasket? Can't imagine it wouldn't work, but maybe it's just that my torque isn't high enough to get a proper seal...
Installed last night and torqued down, but didn't have my torque wrench with me to check torque. I suspect it's 25-30. Currently getting no firing and some gas leaking on the head.
Could not find anyone local that had just the copper gaskets. May have to break down and get the injector install rebuild kit for $60.00 Ooooof...
Anyone ever try the DIY route with the copper crush gasket? Can't imagine it wouldn't work, but maybe it's just that my torque isn't high enough to get a proper seal...
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Try a parts store. Many have various size coppers washers.
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mr.cody.daniel
Registered User
79jasper - That's what I did above!
I'm going to try running them down to the correct torque in an hour or so to see if that seals everything up. I'm just really surprised I didn't even get a fart with it torqued down to similar conditions as before when it ran just fine. That's the magic of diesel I suppose, no spark means everything must be tight!
I'm going to try running them down to the correct torque in an hour or so to see if that seals everything up. I'm just really surprised I didn't even get a fart with it torqued down to similar conditions as before when it ran just fine. That's the magic of diesel I suppose, no spark means everything must be tight!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Like already posted. ANY diesel injection pump repair shop will have these copper washers. Don't try to improvise here. The torque is important too. Its 35 lbs. Don't guess doing this. The gas leaking on the engine. Of course we know you mean the diesel but leaking from where.. Please explain where its leaking from for better help. You also need to do this if your wanting a sealed system. When you remove the injectors take a pointed dental pic and drag it around the cast iron seat in the head where the copper gasket seals. If the pic stops moving around the seat you have a cut seat. I feel this is a problem with what you describe this head is showing. To repair the seat you will need a seat reamer. No amount of over tightening will seal a cut seat nor will 2 copper gaskets in one hole.
mr.cody.daniel
Registered User
Roger that. I took my torque wrench and checked, all were at 33-35. So no dice there. Copper washers must be too hard or to uneven to seal correctly.
Not trying to be ornery, just couldn't find an open diesel shop in SF yesterday. Did finally track one down and will get there before they close today.
Diesel leak is coming up out of the injector well in the head, I see a small shiny rim of diesel and accumulating fuel against the intake manifold below. Specifically pistons #3 and #5.
I'm going to grab the proper washers now and remove the injectors. I'll do the seat check too while I'm in there. Have read elsewhere on the forum that a 12-gauge bore brush can clean up the seat area, but I imagine with a cut seat it's more complicated... I do have brass wool which could do a minor amount of clean up without introducing painfully hard elements to the piston... but... makes me shudder to think about...
Not trying to be ornery, just couldn't find an open diesel shop in SF yesterday. Did finally track one down and will get there before they close today.
Diesel leak is coming up out of the injector well in the head, I see a small shiny rim of diesel and accumulating fuel against the intake manifold below. Specifically pistons #3 and #5.
I'm going to grab the proper washers now and remove the injectors. I'll do the seat check too while I'm in there. Have read elsewhere on the forum that a 12-gauge bore brush can clean up the seat area, but I imagine with a cut seat it's more complicated... I do have brass wool which could do a minor amount of clean up without introducing painfully hard elements to the piston... but... makes me shudder to think about...
Did you replace the return lines, caps, and o rings? They can't be reused. They will leak for sure. PM typ4 on here for a return line kit. The kit includes the copper washers. The price should be less than $60. I replaced a head gasket and tried to reinstall the old return lines and had a gusher of diesel. Not knowing better I bought the kit from Napa and it was $80 plus at least 15 years ago. Amazingly, I only replaced three or four that were leaking and it held for years.
goatwrangler
Full Access Member
Welcome to the Forum Cody
mr.cody.daniel
Registered User
Alright, extracted the hack job washers (took a little figuring but got them all out), inserted new (oh man did they fit perfect!) and installed all new return lines, caps, and o-rings. Wow! No leaks now!
Unfortunately I can't get her to fire up. I bled the lines as best I could, cracking each one, cranking for 10 seconds, off, repeat until all looked wet. Then cinched down.
Is there another step I'm missing to the bleeding operation? Right after the head rebuild I cracked open all the lines, cranked for a little bit, then cinched close and off she went!
Unfortunately I can't get her to fire up. I bled the lines as best I could, cracking each one, cranking for 10 seconds, off, repeat until all looked wet. Then cinched down.
Is there another step I'm missing to the bleeding operation? Right after the head rebuild I cracked open all the lines, cranked for a little bit, then cinched close and off she went!
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Keep bleeding.
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mr.cody.daniel
Registered User
Bled the schrader up high, lot of air came out. Then rebled the front three on the driver's side, a few bubbles came out. Then the battery died.
Recharging now. Anything else? Just keep proceeding?
Recharging now. Anything else? Just keep proceeding?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Hold the pedal down while cranking.
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mr.cody.daniel
Registered User
Bled and bled and bled and could not get a fire. Finally accepted the situation.
Let everything cool down. Disconnected all the glow plugs. Got a glass of water. Thought good thoughts for a few minutes and prayed.
Came back and gave the world's shortest puff of starting fluid into the intake. Hopped in and cranked.
Started up, revved up for a quarter second and settled down to a nice low idle. Let it chug for a minute, then slowly brought the RPMs up.
Runs super smooth. Checked engine bay, no leaking diesel now. Let it idle for a bit.
Shut it down, cranked again and fired on the first revolution. Repeat, fired up again.
Letting it cool down now and going to plug the GPs back in and see if they're all shot or if the thing was just flooded. Either way, picking up spares just in case. Hate to even have the stuff nearby this darling international, but it certainly seemed to do the first round right.
Hopefully this concludes the first step of the saga. Lots more to come... Including pics, paint job, clean, and build up.
Thanks all for your help and welcome wishes. Hope she'll keep on running for a long time!
Let everything cool down. Disconnected all the glow plugs. Got a glass of water. Thought good thoughts for a few minutes and prayed.
Came back and gave the world's shortest puff of starting fluid into the intake. Hopped in and cranked.
Started up, revved up for a quarter second and settled down to a nice low idle. Let it chug for a minute, then slowly brought the RPMs up.
Runs super smooth. Checked engine bay, no leaking diesel now. Let it idle for a bit.
Shut it down, cranked again and fired on the first revolution. Repeat, fired up again.
Letting it cool down now and going to plug the GPs back in and see if they're all shot or if the thing was just flooded. Either way, picking up spares just in case. Hate to even have the stuff nearby this darling international, but it certainly seemed to do the first round right.
Hopefully this concludes the first step of the saga. Lots more to come... Including pics, paint job, clean, and build up.
Thanks all for your help and welcome wishes. Hope she'll keep on running for a long time!
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