yes a 76 is hard to find a 60 in most are external locking hub low pinion 44's I have 3 fords and 3 chevy front like that ( fools alot of of people thinking I got a 60) now 78 and 79 ford trucks had strait axle 60' in them they was usally a "snow fighter" option and a f-350 rarely in a...
don't feel bad I thought mine had the OD in it but had the UD in it so with 4:10 it useless to me because I can pull anything I need in od with the 4.10's did your source at GV say how hard it was to get motors for them mine will come out of UD but not back in so I just leave it out..
sound like the manual fuel pump is adding to your oil...are you running just the manual or manual and eletric.... I did once till I had your problem,,,,,
well is your 77 a highboy? (seperated t-case) or a married t-case(77.5) if it is a highboy then all you have to do is set the 6.2 with a chevy tranny in there and hook up the drive shaft but if it is a married t-case you will run into problems.. for one the out put shaft in on the wrong side for...
who me or the other guy? my burb is not "street" legal/safe right now... I tore out the g-60 gov lock and had to weld the rear end up to use it on the farm... but when it's streetable I will run this (got 200 gallons waiting on me:eek:)
I know it's a long shot...... pull the valve covers I know the older 6.9 would break the rocker arm (or go through the top of them) and being either locked maybe just maybe a bent push rod....
out of all the times I have got one good guy took my 360ford starter in... would start cold but not when warm classic symptons right the guy checked it cold okay then he rechecked it agian and started to notice the amp being drawed.... later same store diff. starter and parts person (80 z-28...
guess since this is the 6.9&7.3 forums you wanted fords only:dunno no stinking chevys... here is two of mine the green one is my farm truck 6.9 hypermax turbo dough nash underdrive... (6.9 is shot) the blue one is my soon to be wrecker and I have a 3rd one but it a parts truck (old south western...
well check the threads out it may have blow the center of it out.... when you get it snap a eletric pump to the fuel line and get it primed so you won't burn the starter up.... I had one 6.9 when you run it out of fuel... you would add fuel do 6 times of cycle the motor and it would start easy...
not to be a smart eleck but a diesel conversion with no computer controlled componets... is the easiest swaps... make motor mounts tranny mounts a few wiring and a d-shaft.... sorry I raced dirt track for a few years so you learn how to fab that stuff up.... my conversion I want to do is a...
cool good freind you have there.... just remeber these tips of it ever quits on you... besides a IP going out it is usally small stuff that get these diesel parked I bought a escort diesel the other day it had sat for 12 years because they thought the starter was bad... ended up being a...
did the same thing with a 68 ford truck raditor was bad (auto) all I had was a stick raditor so I just took a ac core and used for a tranny cooler never ran hot that tranny last years until a reverse N drop got it:rotflmao hey I was 18
I've run it in my 6.9 with no problems except... algea breaking lose and clogging my filters my advice is add a cheep $2 filter from walmart (fram g-2) before the fuel pump it will catch the algea, it took a week to cleean my tank firts day the filter was clogging up evry 60 miles...
also...
here is a few things to answer both of your post..
starter bolt breaking is caused by the starter bracket missing (I have 4 6.2's non have it)
first thing before wasting money on this 6.2 not starting is...
1 turn key on go the the injector pump and un plug the fuel selnoid wire you...
I may have a line on about 2000 gallons of transformer fluid (aka mineral oil) clean and dirty...would I be able to run 50/50? buddy of mine want to run it in his 2006 cummings I told him I don't think it was a good ideal..... cause of all the sensors on it...
guys got any ideals?(I still run...
I may have a line on about 2000 gallons of transformer fluid (aka mineral oil) clean and dirty...would I be able to run 50/50? buddy of mine want to run it in his 2006 cummings I told him I don't think it was a good ideal..... cause of all the sensors on it...
guys got any ideals?(I still run...
mine is a 55 gallon drum with material strecthed over it filter 10 gallon at a time... but I mix my oil and fuel first ..
1) to thin it to filter better
2) it was argued that the dirt in the oil(and other stuff) doesn't let lose until its mixed with diesel or gas..
also I have about 10...
no hole just a crack that you can move the pipe and make it wider (hence the truck is parked) I am worried about the thin pipe though... I think the vibration of the old wore out motor just finally mad it crack... if it to bad the ol motor is wore out It'll give me a reason to put the new motor...
thats what I was thinking it's cracked where they can weld it on the truck... you can step on it now nothing but black smoke and no go where before slight smoke and alot of go go go
before I could boost up to 7 maybe 8 (I know not real high)but now if I stand on it it will barley do 3? so I cleaned the cdr checked the turbo will turn no end shaft play cleaned breather.. still the best is 4... but noticed a exhuast leak so I crawled under the truck the exhuast pipe on the...
I went eletric pump for the quick prime (if you run out of fuel) and the simplicity of knowing if the pump is working... but do not run a electric and manual pump together I did found out the hard way ... nice thin oil in the crankcase or should I say diesel in the crankcase..:eek:
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