replacing dana 60 steering components

steelheadguy

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Well Ive been abusing my truck and it is long overdue for some new tie rods at least. Ive been looking on rock auto hoping to save some money compared to NAPA. Only problem is I cant get straight what is what. Inner, outer, drag link. Rock auto says something about updated threads? I dont mean to be helpless, but could use some guidance. Are there any all in one kits?

Also Im leaking differential oil at the wheels. Is it a seal like I changed in the rear sterling?

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steelheadguy

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Really I might have all the parts figured out I just like input from the forum. Thanks all.

So far I see this right inner which connects near the passenger tire, to a connecting sleeve and then to the joint at the pitman arm.
Only thing is the description says something about replacing the first 22mm design with a second 1" 18 threads?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=389399&cc=1126347

Then the "right outer" which links both wheels together. Needs a connecting sleeve and the driver side tie rod. But again rock auto says something about 22mm blah blah blah.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=389400&cc=1126347

Should I be going cheaper or better than ACdelco?
 
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riotwarrior

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@IDIoit yer steering setup..

Inner seal for axles...means dissassemble remove axle shafts pop out ring gear drive out seals drive in new seals reassemble.
 

IDIoit

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my steering set up cost mucho buko!
and is not a stock set up.
it uses GM 1 ton tie rods which are far superior, but you need to ream the knuckles out.
this is something the average person does not want to do.

if you do.... I would suggest going to ruffstuff.com and buying their "build-a-kit"
260 bucks for everything, and then you can source TRE's as needed.

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UMR_Engnr

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I was thinking about doing this. Did you run a straight tie rod? Did it clear the Dana 60 cover at full lock? How did you attach the drag link to the tie rod? Thanks.
 

ConstantVigilance

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steelheadguy: I'm in the same position. The tie rod ends have rips in the rubber. When I add grease to them, it just comes out through big cracks in it. I've also got a nice leak from the axle tube on the passenger side. (SEE PIC)

Im looking at the MevoTech tie-rods on Rock-auto. Something like $128.89 ($93.92 before shipping) for all of it (except the adjusting things.)

I'd love to drop in some MOOG TRE's, but they are twice the cost. I do like the idea of using those Chevy 1 ton links that IDIoit describes. However, It's more than even the MOOG parts.

I'd love to know what route you've decided to take. Also, how the seal replacement goes. I'll do the same.

Good Luck!
 

UMR_Engnr

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I had some torn boots on my suspension. I jacked up the truck, checked the linkages, and it seemed like the only end that was loose was the driver side. I got a replacement for that side (luckily it was the side with just the end and not the whole bar), and picked up some Energy Suspension 9-13119G tie rod boots. They should be here tomorrow, I'll let you know how they work out. They were only $3.05 for a pair. Beats replacing the whole joint if they are still good.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/energy+suspension,913119G,tie+rod+end+boot,10659
 

junk

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If I was going to replace my tie rods I'd look for XRF tie-rods and ball joints if needed. Supposedly better quality than Moog and less money than moog. Also Moog isn't all it used to be. We put them in my brothers Blazer and he's had no issues. Look around at prices though. XRF prices vary alot. They're also not super easy to get. They aren't a Rockauto type part.
 

mblaney

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Check out the details in my D60 swap post. I think I did everything that you are looking to do (seals and steering). Part number, prices and everything is available there. Link in my signature below. I only used XRF steering, Spicer u-joints and axle parts. Consider "the cure" while you are at it!
 

IDIoit

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I was thinking about doing this. Did you run a straight tie rod? Did it clear the Dana 60 cover at full lock? How did you attach the drag link to the tie rod? Thanks.

i started out using the offset TRE's but i didn't like the slop they created.
i ended up running the straight TRE's.
the drag link installed into the tie rod with another straight 1 ton TRE
 

compressionignitionrules

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I've had nothing but quality control problems with MOOG steering parts. stay away if you have an option. if your ends are tight, I would go with the replacement boots idea if oyu can find them!
 

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