Won’t shut off

Yeah Fss stuck open would keep the cycle going true. Overlooked the physical failure there. Easy test is to pull the wire and begin rapping on the pump top with something like the wood handle of a hammer. See if it turns off sooner.

If it does, a healthy dose of ATF or seafoam to the fuel filter may clear it up.

Probably the pump.

Ethan Turner said:

May question doesn’t make sense?

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No, I posted a reply that made no damn sense in regards to your issue. Can't delete posts, only edit, so I was commenting on my own stupidity. Sorry for the confusion.

I was having an issue with it dying once it was hot and you gave it some fuel so I ran atf through the filter three times each time seemed to help but not fix it finally I got some stanadyne injector cleaner and ran it through the filter and the problem went away but then this problem started shortly after

How does it sound when you are trying to shut it down? All cylinders firing? And do you have turbo? If your turbo seals are leaking, the engine sees that leakage as fuel. Do you have high oil loss?

You either have gummed up fss, or are sucking oil. Either from worn rings, leaking turbo, or some sort of PCV route. I mean, what else is there put fuel under compression to run this thing?

Nothing runs for free.

No turbo and it seems to run fine after you turn the key it doesn’t start to miss or anything like that when it finally decides to turn off it turns off like you would expect

I highly suspect your FSS solenoid is sticking open. I'd lightly rap the IP with a hammer handle or small tack hammer to see if I could correlate my tapping with the desired shutdown. And by tapping, I mean just that. Not to the point of damaging anything - I just want to set up a little shock wave to free a gummy solenoid core.

I was thinking you maybe had bad rings that were sweeping oil into the cylinder. Not likely. They don't all go bad at once.

The only other way I see is the valve that makes the engine try to draw air from its own crankcase. Mostly to reburn blowby from aging rings.

For a test, I think I would disconnect that, and let the engine suck air. And see if that is how the engine is getting its fuel.

I could see worn rings letting blowby form a mist with engine oil sufficient to maintain operation when sucked back in to the cylinder.

Another thing, maybe when you are trying to shut down, you already have a crankcase full of mist, but are no longer misting enough to sustain operation? You run just long enough to deplete your reservoir of stored mist.

Just a thought. I'll throw it out for what it's worth.

Just thinking of sources for 'fuel', I came up with:

Crankcase blowby. As Beast Master just explained.

Sticky shutoff solenoid. Solenoid could be just sticking for that long. Also could be going out and acting this way.

So, yeah, just agreeing with the others that have a already posted.

Ummm. ..

Now that you have this little gremlin camped out in your engine, I'd keep a CO2 fire extinguisher handy just in case.

I do not know how well Halon will work in a high pressure environment with diesel fuel available. It may have toxic results. CO2 is a pretty good clean air displacer and you get a lot of it when stored as a liquid.

It will stop the engine if sprayed into the air intake.

Engine runaway is no fun.

BeastMaster said:

Ummm. ..

Now that you have this little gremlin camped out in your engine, I'd keep a CO2 fire extinguisher handy just in case.

I do not know how well Halon will work in a high pressure environment with diesel fuel available. It may have toxic results. CO2 is a pretty good clean air displacer and you get a lot of it when stored as a liquid.

It will stop the engine if sprayed into the air intake.

Engine runaway is no fun.

Click to expand...

Thinking about unliking this one so I can like it again!!!

CO2 definitely has its purposes. It's readily available at welding supply stores so welders can fill tanks and the like so they don't go boom when they start work.

I use it to make soda pop. Out of nearly any beverage. All it takes is a 75 PSI PSIG ( 6 Bar) regulator and soda bottle with a tire stem mounted in the cap.

I already keep liquid CO2 cylinders around to make soda pop. This is like something I keep around just in case...

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32759620609.html

Yeh, I see it's billed as a DJ fog shooter. My own feeling is that is a thing every diesel mechanic should have just in case of diesel runaway. That fog is mostly CO2, cold, and full of water mist which will suck the heat right out of a runaway engine. And cheap to refill. And most important, not damage the engine. Just put it to sleep until you can figure out where it's getting its fuel.

https://refrigeranthq.com/r-744-carbon-dioxide-refrigerant-fact-info-sheet/


From this : "While it is non-toxic there is still risk if a leak occurs in an enclosed area as R-744 will displace the oxygen in the room and could cause asphyxiation."

And that's exactly what we had in mind. For the engine. Put it to sleep without harming it.


I don't know what that 120 volt power stuff they refer to is. Liquid CO2 will get very cold when vented, and change atmospheric moisture to fog. From what I can tell, this is only a CO2 valve. The tank pressure for liquid CO2 is in the 700 to 1500 psi, depending on ambient temperature... You need a high pressure hose to the jug.

CO2 jugs have standard fittings. The welding supply store knows all about it. Far more than I.



It costs me about $20 to get my jug refilled.

20 pound jug. That's 20 pounds of liquid CO2. They sell it by the pound, not the gallon.

The jugs look like a scuba tank. They play the game thus: you surrender your empty jug, you get a filled jug. Not the same jug. If you just went off and bought a new jug, boy, are you gonna be pissed. They accumulate those empty jugs and they have Linde or Air Products refill them at their air distillation plant. Yup, they distill air to get all this stuff. And CO2 is abundant and cheap.

Keep your eyes open. Sometimes people throw away beverage jugs. If you recover one, all you have to do is swap it in for a filled jug at a welding supply store.

And you will have 20 pounds of liquid CO2 to use as you see fit.

That's how I got mine. Right out of a dumpster.

When you talk about mist coming up from the crankcase I guess you mean through the CDR valve and I just replaced that about a year ago the intake is dry as a bone

It's most likely the FSS fuel shutoff solenoid on the pump dragging ass, of you were burning oil in mist or liquid form you'd see it in the exhaust and smell it.

You can swap the fss or try taking out your fuel filter and filling it with ATF or Seafoam. They may ungunk your FSS.

This forum or Google images has pics of the internals of the pump too of you wanted to try and service it yourself, just don't get/leave any crap in there when you're done.

Ethan Turner said:

When you talk about mist coming up from the crankcase I guess you mean through the CDR valve and I just replaced that about a year ago the intake is dry as a bone

Click to expand...

I believe the CDR is wide open under normal operating conditions. It only closes if a significant pressure differential is seen by the diaphragm inside which would basically just be intake vacuum. It won't stop fuel mist in the crankcase from feeding the engine under normal circumstances.

Dumb question, but I feel like it still needs to be asked. Are you sure you're pulling the fss wire? Not the cold advance or something like that?
With the engine off, key on, you should be able to pull off the fss and hear a click, touch the connector and you hear a click again. That would show the solenoid is at least clicking reliably.