raydav
Full Access Member
Was there an O ring at the IP intake? I have a brass compression fitting on mine.
Injection punmp
- Thread starter culver21
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Was there an O ring at the IP intake? I have a brass compression fitting on mine.
raydav
Full Access Member
This is my wrench. I did not need to bend it, just grind it a bit thinner.
And I am working a van where I must do everything by feel. But then I got the fuel filter off the engine which helps.
And I am working a van where I must do everything by feel. But then I got the fuel filter off the engine which helps.
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I don't know where you live but I'm at 5000ft. I just ordered an RD2-80 and stock injectors.
I have an 89 7.3 with an 088 turbo.
Conestoga has a check list to help decide what pump to use. They recommended their baby moose to me due to my elevation.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
He was talking about the olive on the hard line that runs from the fuel filter head and connects to that compression fitting. There's actually one at each end of the hard line.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
A Rd2-90 will do just fine for you. Stock turbos can't handle a 110 without smoke, and much of the gains would be wasted due to pack of air flow. A 90 will double your N/A HP and make a really powerful, fun truck. I'd expect up to around 220 wheel HP ,around 280-290 "rated" crank HP. With a N/A motor pushing 125 when new, down to about 85 when worn out, 220 is a big jump.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
A Rd2-90 will do just fine for you. Stock turbos can't handle a 110 without smoke, and much of the gains would be wasted due to pack of air flow. A 90 will double your N/A HP and make a really powerful, fun truck. I'd expect up to around 220 wheel HP ,around 280-290 "rated" crank HP. With a N/A motor pushing 125 when new, down to about 85 when worn out, 220 is a big jump.
Have you head studded the engine? If not you will have plenty of fuel adjustment room with a stock pump to make more than enough boost.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Here's the deal with "can it handle that much HP". The answer is... Most likely!
What I've learned is that you have a small chance of blowing a head gasket, no matter what you do. Even N/A!
If it's a gasket that hasn't been changed since the motor was built in the 80s... it's going to go sooner or later.
In my case, I pushed 250 (wheel) HP(320 crank) out of a stock 88 7.3 motor for a full year, with a sketchy gasket - see, I had the belt tensioner break, the engine got hot as I limped it to an auto parts store, and when I got back home I saw coolant trails out of the head gaskets on both sides. I decided "well, if it's going to fail anyway, why not have fun?" and put my big IP on it, cranked up to max!
A full year plus later(this included many towing trips and daily driving, probably 10K miles total), with intermittant weeping of coolant from the gaskets, it finally failed into the water jacket. Still ran on all 8 cylinders, but produced lots of bubbling in the overflow and lots of coolant out the exhaust.
I'd say that isn't stressing it a lot, considering when I first saw symptoms and when it actually failed.
My other truck (currently) has a Banks kit on it and maxed pump, and it's literally maxing out the 15 psi gauge whenever you get on it. my friend has been DDing it for a few months and, well, no issues yet. We've pulled some pretty big loads with that, including a large IDI Van about 500 miles(at 60+ MPH)(Note: this truck had a rebuilt motor in it at some time in the past, so I know the gaskets aren't as old as the truck).
Head studs will definitely add some added safety factor, but I'm fairly convinced that a stock-type turbo just isn't going to push enough pressure to blow gaskets at this point, and one of the main advantages of adding headstuds is you do gaskets at the same time.
I don't want to be too negative or positive here; I've had good luck with my setups overall, but it's just something to be aware of. Head gaskets blow on cars all the time - they seem to blow less on IDIs, but remember the age of the engine.
Another advantage of turboing and making sure your fuel is matched with your air is EGTs. Keep the temps reasonable and the engine will last a lot longer. Heat is what stresses gaskets and everything else, and a N/A motor can actually produce higher EGTs(due to the lack of air at higher RPMs) than a turbocharged IDI making double the power... simply because you have more than enough air going in there.
edit:
Just to point out, a RD2-90 isn't a 'special' pump. it's a cranked-up stock-spec pump, which is why the cost is low. Mel and Russ can both come up with similar pumps, and they should all work well enough.
What I've learned is that you have a small chance of blowing a head gasket, no matter what you do. Even N/A!
If it's a gasket that hasn't been changed since the motor was built in the 80s... it's going to go sooner or later.
In my case, I pushed 250 (wheel) HP(320 crank) out of a stock 88 7.3 motor for a full year, with a sketchy gasket - see, I had the belt tensioner break, the engine got hot as I limped it to an auto parts store, and when I got back home I saw coolant trails out of the head gaskets on both sides. I decided "well, if it's going to fail anyway, why not have fun?" and put my big IP on it, cranked up to max!
A full year plus later(this included many towing trips and daily driving, probably 10K miles total), with intermittant weeping of coolant from the gaskets, it finally failed into the water jacket. Still ran on all 8 cylinders, but produced lots of bubbling in the overflow and lots of coolant out the exhaust.
I'd say that isn't stressing it a lot, considering when I first saw symptoms and when it actually failed.
My other truck (currently) has a Banks kit on it and maxed pump, and it's literally maxing out the 15 psi gauge whenever you get on it. my friend has been DDing it for a few months and, well, no issues yet. We've pulled some pretty big loads with that, including a large IDI Van about 500 miles(at 60+ MPH)(Note: this truck had a rebuilt motor in it at some time in the past, so I know the gaskets aren't as old as the truck).
Head studs will definitely add some added safety factor, but I'm fairly convinced that a stock-type turbo just isn't going to push enough pressure to blow gaskets at this point, and one of the main advantages of adding headstuds is you do gaskets at the same time.
I don't want to be too negative or positive here; I've had good luck with my setups overall, but it's just something to be aware of. Head gaskets blow on cars all the time - they seem to blow less on IDIs, but remember the age of the engine.
Another advantage of turboing and making sure your fuel is matched with your air is EGTs. Keep the temps reasonable and the engine will last a lot longer. Heat is what stresses gaskets and everything else, and a N/A motor can actually produce higher EGTs(due to the lack of air at higher RPMs) than a turbocharged IDI making double the power... simply because you have more than enough air going in there.
edit:
Just to point out, a RD2-90 isn't a 'special' pump. it's a cranked-up stock-spec pump, which is why the cost is low. Mel and Russ can both come up with similar pumps, and they should all work well enough.
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Or you could read up, do some research and follow the advice given by the majority here.
Russ mel and justin, do 20 questions with them.
Compare notes.
Choose.
Russ mel and justin, do 20 questions with them.
Compare notes.
Choose.
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Rd-90 is not a stock pump, it has an upgraded leafspring and added tension adjustment there to allow for more plunger displacement, you cannot make that much fuel with a stock pump by turning the fuel screw on the side of the pump.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
It took me a bit to figure out how to refute this, but here goes: Perhaps you'll get a little more fuel off idle(when you have no boost anyway), but by 2500 RPM when you are nearing torque/HP peak, you are limited by the amount of fuel that can jump across the gap and into the fill ports in the rotor. This is not enough to max out the full plunger depth, even with the metering valve fully open. This is why the fuel curves always drop off higher in tue rev range, and the big difference with the RD2-110, which has more fill ports.
I suspect that(if the difference is even measurable), a RD2-90 might produce more smoke at idle when you hammer it on it, but peak HP will be very similar.
Go ahead and refute this. Find me charts and numbers, dyno sheets etc. I'm willing to be wrong, I just haven't seen the evidence for it.
