Ignition Switch Info - 1988 F250

[HammerDown]

He fellas, haven't really been on here very much but I hope the good people I have meet in person' and gotten help with over the years are well.
Onto my Ignition Switch...(mounted down on the column) it is original from when I bought the truck, new...late 1987 but it is a 1988.
Over the decades and countless 'starts' I had to turn the key further and further to get the starter to spin.
Several months ago I dropped the steering column and moved the 'ignition switch' up on the column about 1/16" and that did help but since doing so when I turn the key back to "acc" nothing would work...no pwr windows, radio, nothing.

Jump to current days...once again I have to turn the key further to engage the starter.

QUESTION...I'm having a difficult time locating a 'new old stock' Ford switch and Salvage yards around me just don't keep 27 year old vehicles. So, I'll have to go aftermarket.
Can someone give me the EXACT Ford switch part number for my 1988 F250 diesel with TILT WHEEL?
Because it's a 'diesel' I'm running into some contact pin differences. As in the number of internal pins the diesel switch needs vs gas engines.

Also...when I do get the replacement switch how does the 'rod' attach into the ignition-switch?
Please don't tell me I have to mess with that darn 'actuator piece' that is known to break that the upper end of the rod attaches to.
Thanks for any feedback and info, Ray

BTW, my father has a 1988 'gas engine' F250 PU sitting rotting away but I believe that switch is indeed different then the Diesel switch.

 

[79jasper]

Back then, their wouldn't be a difference in gas vs diesel.
Duralast LS515

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Sorro71]

I purchased a genuine ignition switch from "rockauto" about two months ago.
I have the same model truck as you with a tilt column.
Haven't got round to fitting it yet though.

 

[riphip]

I put a 'push button' start switch on mine after last problem with tilt actuator and switch. Black round one next to glowplug light which can hardly be seen.
Turn key on then push button. Less wear on actuator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015X34IP6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rick

 

[HammerDown]

Back then, their wouldn't be a difference in gas vs diesel.
Duralast LS515

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Huh, I was told because of the GP's and the Fuel on/off Solenoid the Diesels switch an extra contact pin inside?

 

[79jasper]

No.......

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[HammerDown]

I purchased a genuine ignition switch from "rockauto" about two months ago.
I have the same model truck as you with a tilt column.
Haven't got round to fitting it yet though.

Can u see or tell me how the 'rod' connects to the switch?
And Rock has the "Ford" part?

 

[HammerDown]

I put a 'push button' start switch on mine after last problem with tilt actuator and switch. Black round one next to glowplug light which can hardly be seen.
Turn key on then push button. Less wear on actuator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015X34IP6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rick

Great idea but I would like getting my 'accessories' to work again and for that I still need a new switch.
Can u explain what 2-wires you tapped into???

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The rod has an upturned part on the lower end. The ignition switch has a hole in the bottom of it that just sits over the end of the rod. It's fairly simple when you look at it. Just pay attention when you take it apart.

 

[Sorro71]

Can u see or tell me how the 'rod' connects to the switch?
And Rock has the "Ford" part?

I'm not sure how rod connects , haven't done mine yet. It's one of those jobs I've been putting off
Rock did have the Ford part. You'll have to check and see if they still have them.

 

[HammerDown]

The rod has an upturned part on the lower end. The ignition switch has a hole in the bottom of it that just sits over the end of the rod. It's fairly simple when you look at it. Just pay attention when you take it apart.

Excellent, thanks!
And I'm guessing if I get the new switch in the same position as the old one (maybe a little lower on the column as I slid it up 1/16" it should works like new...hopefully not needing to turn the key too much to engage the starter)

 

[riphip]

I ran wire from starter solenoid, thru my new start switch mounted in panel, then to fused (3-5 amp) hot. 18-20 gauge wire is fine.
Turn key to on & push button.

Slide your original switch back down 1/16" to where Accessories comes on. Make sure when you turn to on (not start), lights and gauges turn on.

Rick

 

[laserjock]

Hopefully your problem is the switch and not the pot metal actuator in the column. Not going to start makes me wonder if it's broken or in the process.

 

[HammerDown]

I ran wire from starter solenoid, thru my new start switch mounted in panel, then to fused (3-5 amp) hot. 18-20 gauge wire is fine.
Turn key to on & push button.

Slide your original switch back down 1/16" to where Accessories comes on. Make sure when you turn to on (not start), lights and gauges turn on.

Rick

thanks Rick, just wondering 'if' there is any reason why I couldn't use the fender mounted relay terminals...like when you jump both terminals to get the starter to spin?

 

[HammerDown]

Hopefully your problem is the switch and not the pot metal actuator in the column. Not going to start makes me wonder if it's broken or in the process.

Yea, that usually happens when it's difficult to turn like winter months and usually it just 'snaps'...I have a spare in stock.
I replaced the last one back on 2010 or maybe a little later and lubed everything-up