Valve Stem Seals

[MTKirk]

The next project on my truck is to replace the valve stem seals. My oil consumption is around a quart per 400 miles. The engine runs great, has pretty good compression (375 +/- 15psi on all 8), acceptable blowby, and a perfectly functioning CDR system so; valve stem seals seems the next logical step.

I find two types of Felpro stem seals. One is part number SS72628, the other is SS72628-1. As near as I can tell the SS72628 has a smaller umbrella type shield that goes on all 16 valves. whereas the SS72628-1 has larger umbrellas that go on the exhaust valves only. Do I have this right?

There are also some Victor Reinz B45662 units that have an altogether different type of exhaust umbrella. The intakes; B45560 look a little different as well.

does anyone know if I have this correct? which do you think I would be better off with?

I will be doing this with the engine in the truck, so I’m pretty sure I’ll need a lever type valve spring compressor in addition to the overhead I have. Any recommendations on which compressor to use?

Any comments would be appreciated, thank you!

Kirk

 

[icanfixall]

I'm not able to tell you what these part numbers mean but what I do know is our idi engine has different valve seals for the exhausr and the intake. You will find the exhaust seal fits in the bottom side of the keeper and not on the valve guide like the intakes do. Also the intake seal is a completely different material. Usually it is black rubber like material with a wound spring adding pressure on the valve to seal it from allowing oil to get into the intake. So you plan doing the valve seals while the engine is in the truck. Fine, then you will need to find top dead center of each cylinder you plan replacing the seals on. Others hopefully will chime in to tell you what pairs of cylinders are at top dead center at the same time. I'm guessing here that 1 and 4 are a pair but have not done this job so please get the correct information before you do this and drop a valve into a cylinder because you did not have the piston at TDC. Our valve miss hitting the top of the pistons by around 50 to 60 thousands ONLY when the piston reaches tdc.

 

[crash-harris]

On gassers a lot of folks get or make an adapter for the spark plug threads to connect to an air line. May be able to do the same thing via the glow plug ports as long as it wouldn't negetively affect the injectors.

 

[riotwarrior]

The air line adapter fitting for gp woukd be to utilize a comlression tester lead and add air fitting to guage end actually...or a cylinder leak down tester would do same.

Since each cylinder fires 90 deg from previous one setting #1 TDC compression stroke would be the way to start...then turn crank 90 deg do next cyl in firing order and so on.

This would ensure correct order and each piston at TDC.

IT ALL STARTS MQKING SURE THE #1 CYL IZ AT TDC.

 

[MTKirk]

I'm pretty sure I'll figure out how to turn each cylinder to TDC before I pull the valve springs. I have no intention of risking dropping a valve.

I was hoping someone might be able to school me on what the best stem seal/shield combo has worked best for them. AND what type of compressor gets the job done when the engines in the truck.

 

[jdb]

Attempting the same project on my 83 F250 with a 6.9 diesel engine.

Using a small air compressor with a fitting that screws into the glow plug hole. 25 lbs pressure holds the valves up ok. To check that the valve itself is ok, need to turn off the air, so prior to doing so I put some duct tape around the end of the valve stem to stop it falling. Using a screw type valve compression tool. Looks like I will have to take out the heater to get at the back valves on the passenger side

I ordered the Felpro parts SS72628-1. It came today with 8 intake valve seals and 8 exhaust long oil shields. I want to do only the intake valves, and was hoping that the package came with the small oil shields that go on the intakes. I think that you get the small oil shields in Felpro SS72628, but the pictures are useless (you can't tell from the photos what they are), and my local auto parts supplier said he couldn't get that parts package, although I see it is available on-line.

Please let me know what you find out.

 

[MTKirk]

Attempting the same project on my 83 F250 with a 6.9 diesel engine.

Using a small air compressor with a fitting that screws into the glow plug hole. 25 lbs pressure holds the valves up ok. To check that the valve itself is ok, need to turn off the air, so prior to doing so I put some duct tape around the end of the valve stem to stop it falling. Using a screw type valve compression tool. Looks like I will have to take out the heater to get at the back valves on the passenger side

I ordered the Felpro parts SS72628-1. It came today with 8 intake valve seals and 8 exhaust long oil shields. I want to do only the intake valves, and was hoping that the package came with the small oil shields that go on the intakes. I think that you get the small oil shields in Felpro SS72628, but the pictures are useless (you can't tell from the photos what they are), and my local auto parts supplier said he couldn't get that parts package, although I see it is available on-line.

Please let me know what you find out.

My take away is that the Felpro SS72628 had been discontinued. Not wanting to use seals that had been sitting around in a warehouse; I ordered the Felpro SS72628-1. I can't imagine it will make one bit of difference.

I haven't had enough spare time to install mine yet, so can't tell you much about how they work.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Look at my signature for which cylinder is at TDC. You can take the cover off the IP gear housing in the front, when the timing mark on the damper pulley is at 0 and IP dowel pin is at 4:00 o'clock, cyl's 1 & 4 are at TDC, then go from there. Read the instructions that come with the valve seals carefully.

 

[racer30]

If your going to do the intakes, you might as well do the exhaust too.. mine where all hard and broken so why only do half the job... you will kick yourself for not doing them all...

 

[icanfixall]

do both intake and exhaust or be sorry later. You will be deep into the job to only do half of it.

 

[franklin2]

While you are in there, double check the play the stem has in the guide. If there is play you know what that means. The 7.3's are notorious for the valve guides wearing out.

 

[OLDBULL8]

These fit any 6.9 or 7.3 from 83 to 94.The SS72628-1 is an update on the kind of material (plastic) used.

http://www.autozone.com/1/products/60860-valve-stem-seal-ss72628-1-felpro-ss72628-1.html

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-SS-72...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0094EEN3I

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-SS-72...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0094EEN3I

 

[Hydro-idi]

If your oil consumption is that high, I bet your guides are worn out. If your planning on going thru the trouble of installing new stem seals in frame, I would take it a step further and yank the heads & get them rebuilt. It's a very doable job if you have the tools. A cherry picker is a must tho

 

[jdb]

I have now completed the work on my 83 6.9. I used the Felpro SS72628-1 which contains 8 intake seals and 8 exhaust (umbrella) shields. Also got the Felpro equivalent for Clevite B45607 which contains 12 (hat) oil shields, used on the intakes. Followed the advice of others in this thread and did both the intakes and exhaust.

On the passenger side, had to remove the heater to get at the back two cylinders. Valve cover gasket was leaking because the original bolts had phillips screw heads and were not torqued enough - replaced them with hex head bolts. Used an overhead spring compressor, and was able to access every valve except the back one against the firewall (exhaust) on the driver's side. Used an air compressor to hold the valves, but the pressure maxed out at 20 psi - same on every cylinder - it was a small compressor, so I assume it was a slow leak through the gaps in the rings or around the valves. Was very careful when replacing the springs not to bang or force the valve stems.

I found that I was not able to get the umbrella exhaust shields over the valve stems once they were placed in the holder at the top of the spring - the compression of the fit in the holder narrowed the i.d. enough to make it tight, and as I noted above I was being careful not to push down ******* the valve stems. So instead, I reamed the umbrella shields slightly to get a smooth fit. I didn't have the same problem with the small hat shields on the intakes.

This was my first diesel engine project, and after having taken out and replaced so many moving parts, I was afraid that when I tried to start the truck, I would hear horrible noises and puffs of smoke. To my great pleasure and relief, it started and ran, and actually has a cleaner exhaust, which was the original goal of the project.

Best of luck with your project.

 

[icanfixall]

Nice reading it runs well now. Can you post back with oil usage later.