Storing Engine/Transmission Long Term?

[tbryanh]

I was thinking about parting out my 1986 E350. It has the 6.9idi and C6 transmission. The engine and transmission are in good condition now, but I have heard they (engine anyway) can be damaged from non-use for many years.

I was wondering if the engine and transmission would be useable in maybe 5 years from now or would they be damaged (rusted out)?

 

[DaveBen]

The first thing I would check; does the engine turn over by using a wrench or is it stuck. If free, you are good if nothing else shows up, like a hole in the block.

Dave

 

[IDIoit]

if im going to store an engine, for future use, as i have done a few times without issue,
i remove all of the coolant. i also pull the heads. with the heads off, i can determine if its in good enough shape to store.
while the heads are off, i use bearing grease on the cylinder walls.
coated liberally. then i rotate the engine to make sure some of that grease gets on the rings.
the heavy grease wont wash down like oil or say, WD-40. then spin the engine over once a year.
and will stay there for years, when you go to fire it up, after x amount of time, all that grease in the rings will burn off.
slap the heads back on, hand tighten the head bolts without a gasket. and without valve train installed.

odds are after 5 years, you will be replacing lifters and all gaskets, or atleast i would.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Personally, I would buy a can of LPS 3 premier rust inhibitor and coat entire engine inside & out. I used this product on my reman engine and it worked excellent. It's about $20 a can but worth it IMO. My engine sat in a fairly moist environment for about 8 months and didn't rust at all. Also kept an engine bag over it. It's a wax base product and takes mineral spirits to remove when your ready to assemble engine.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612

 

[tbryanh]

So is the main concern just the cylinder walls and piston rings?

Wet about the bearing journals?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Diesel fuel is Hydroscopic, that is it absorbs water. Before the last time you run the engine, fill the filter with ATF, then run the engine for about 3 - 4 minutes so the ATF goes thru the IP and injectors, that washes all the diesel fuel out. You can even,(after filling the filter with ATF) put a hose from the lift pump into a quart of ATF. When the engine stops, you know it has run out of ATF as a fuel.
Take the wire off the IP FSS so it can't/won't start.
Drain the oil pan, leave plug out for a day or two, put plug back in, add four quarts (room temp.) of SAE 50W oil, Pull the oil filter, empty it then fill it with 50W, put it back on. Without starting the engine, turn it over with the starter 2 -3 times in 20 second spurts, cool a couple of minutes between starts, that replaces all the old bearing oil, which can be acidic. The old oil left in the oil cooler will replace the fresh oil in the filter.

Drain the coolant, be sure and pull the block drain plugs, one on each side. Remove the t'stat. Plug the radiator hose ports after draining.

IDIoit idea of pulling the heads and doing as he said is good insurance for a long term storage. A little work, but just do it.
Nothing has to be done to the transmission, just leave the oil in it, that is if it's not burnt, but plug/seal the lines that go to a oil cooler. Since your going to scrap the truck, just cut the lines close to trans, crimp and fold back to seal.

 

[IDIoit]

So is the main concern just the cylinder walls and piston rings?

Wet about the bearing journals?

Bills post is good insurance with fresh oil to keep the bearings in the same shape.

if youre going to scrap the van, let me know, there are a few things id buy off you!
like the roof, the engine crossmember, etc.
hell ill give you scrap prices for what you dont want!!!

as a diesel title, i do urge you not to scrap it.
these titles are non smog and can be used!!!!
im local, so hit me up!

 

[tbryanh]

I just updated my profile. I am in Houston, TX now.

 

[fsmyth]

OK, then hit ME up
Same deal as IDIot.

 

[riotwarrior]

To add a wee bit to this some of fqncy silica cat litter in a couple of socks tied up makes nice desicant to place in intake and exhaust if you dont open emgine.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I completely forgot about mentioning the intake and exhaust. They can be covered with duct tape.

 

[riotwarrior]

I completely forgot about mentioning the intake and exhaust. They can be covered with duct tape.

I got yer back on this one

 

[tbryanh]

The first thing I would check; does the engine turn over by using a wrench or is it stuck. If free, you are good if nothing else shows up, like a hole in the block.

Dave

The engine has been started regularly, and I used to drive the van all the time, so there is nothing wrong with the engine.

 

[tbryanh]

if im going to store an engine, for future use, as i have done a few times without issue,
i remove all of the coolant. i also pull the heads. with the heads off, i can determine if its in good enough shape to store.
while the heads are off, i use bearing grease on the cylinder walls.
coated liberally. then i rotate the engine to make sure some of that grease gets on the rings.
the heavy grease wont wash down like oil or say, WD-40. then spin the engine over once a year.
and will stay there for years, when you go to fire it up, after x amount of time, all that grease in the rings will burn off.
slap the heads back on, hand tighten the head bolts without a gasket. and without valve train installed.

odds are after 5 years, you will be replacing lifters and all gaskets, or atleast i would.

Would assembly grease be better than bearing grease?

What does it mean to not have the valve train installed? The rocker arms and shafts are removed from the heads so that the valve springs are not compressed?

Why would the lifters have to be replaced?

 

[IDIoit]

i like bearing grease because its thicker. assembly lube isnt bad, but it will run.

yes, when storing an engine you dont want a valve to be open, it makes for weak valve springs

lifters, cheap insurance!