re-cross hatching your cylinders for new slugs and rings?

IDIoit

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on all the gassers ive ever done,
everytime i installed new rings on pistions,
ive always honed the cylinders.

just to give it cross hatching to promote ring sealing. and to make sure the cylinders are AOK

is this the common practice in diesels as well?
 

icanfixall

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I think you are on the right track. No matter the engine type. Cross hatching promotes a good ring to cylinder match. If the stones are new and flat it will also show the low places in the bore. I'm hoping you do not have any holes.
 

IDIoit

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the cylinders all look in great shape.
i will be stripping the rest of the block down today, cleaning it and using some spray dye on it.
 

icanfixall

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i did it to mine...just a few passes with a dingleball hone in each cylinder

This type hone will not hone the cylinders flat. Each ball finds any high or low spot and cleans it. A 4 inch flat stone will clean the bore much better because its flat and wont get into each small hole. Think of it this way. Use a wider plate to clean up what you are trying to level out. The ****** ball hone job sure looks good but thats about it.
 

Waystro

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Gary what if ya used a flat stone then came through with the ****** hone? Just thinking out loud.
 

IDIoit

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as posted, the ****** ball will get the entire cylinder.
the flat stone will show imperfections.

even the ****** ball will show major imperfections.
but if you have a major glitch with the cylinder, you should not be tryin to put it back together.
 

Waystro

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as posted, the ****** ball will get the entire cylinder.
the flat stone will show imperfections.

even the ****** ball will show major imperfections.
but if you have a major glitch with the cylinder, you should not be tryin to put it back together.
Cylinders look Peachy really depends on what the shop says
 

icanfixall

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If you use the flat stones and the cylinders show some low places. Then using a ****** ball stone is only going to make the holes deeper but when it does this you have the appearance that all is flat and well.. but it really is not. ****** balls just makes the cylinder look good but they generally will not be true and flat. They are a feel good tool. What you want is a flat long stone doing the best it can about straightening out a bore. Not digging into holes to make a feel good look. Use both a flat and ****** ball stone is taking probably twice the material off the cylinders and not warranted. We all do what makes us feel good. I'm not saying using a ****** ball hone stone is a bad idea. It has its place but not trying to true up or make any cylinder look good. Only a flat stone can clean up a cylinder true.
 

OLDBULL8

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i did it to mine...just a few passes with a dingleball hone in each cylinder

That is what I'd use, the dingleballs. Just enough to break any glaze. Try to get the crosshatch as close to 50-60 degrees. I use ATF, Mineral Seal oil or Kerosene as the lubricant to hone. Don't use WD40 as it has an acid content and breaks down the adhesive in the balls. A 240 grit and a 4-1/8" dia. X 4" hone should give a good crosshatch. If you take 1 or 2 hone strokes then look at the results, you can pretty well estimate the cyl condition of OOR or taper.

I've seen Ford/Navistar diesel engines with 200K + miles on them that still has some signs of crosshatch, I contribute that to the oil spouts, good maintenance and the high Nickel content of the block casting.
If there's no sign of crosshatch, then it's a well worn engine and the cylinders should be micked for out of round and taper. If any of that is out of spec, then it should be machine honed with flat stones. OOR limit is .0003 to .012. Taper limit is .008.

EDIT: You could always get
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to check it out.:love: :D
 
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freebird01

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i used PB blaster for lube. i measured for bore and taper before and after and it was with-in spec...and at 128k the block still had crosshatch
 
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