1993 Ford F-Super Duty XLT - "Log Truck" (new to me truck-pic heavy)

FORDF250HDXLT

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now,your half way home to a flush.be silly not to drain that converter and just do the complete job at this time.
if your lucky,the previous owner (or yourself) already did you a solid and didn't re-install that stupid shield bolt up by the starter.if it's still there.....i feel for ya.i left mine out last time i replaced my starter on chip truck.someone already did me the favor on this truck (yeah baby!)
so simply turn out the two at the bottom and and using an extension it does get that one up on the other side even though the exhaust does look directly in the path.use a wrench if you have too.
next,caution: though it's not likely (odds are so low it's silly) go ahead and just pull the FSS off on the IP just for extra safety......oh just do it.it'll take a ya 5 seconds.
grab a 5/16 socket with 1/2 drive ratchet and turn the engine over while you keep looking for the drain on the converter.drain 'er out.go grab a cup of joe.it takes a while.
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fill her up! get ready for approx 18 quarts for the 4wd version.
i only grabbed 14 quarts as shown cus i thought for sure i had like 6 left over from a case or something.i looked all around and couldn't find it.i had to run out for more.so check to see what you have on hand first lol.
if using a 4r100 pan,be sure to always ask for a 4wd filter from now on,even if you own a 2wd truck.
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the small package is unrelated.it's a replacement tach sensor.the large box below is the 4r100 pan part #.
these are "4wd" depth and require a "4wd" filter asked at stores from now on.don't try and explain what you did unless you want to shoot the breeze for a while and confuse the counter person lmao.
for me nothing changed anyway so nothing to remember.my chip truck is a 4wd anyway,and the f-super all use the 4wd trans (due to the parking brake.)
for you 2wd guys,don't forget "4wd" from now on if you use this pan.
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torque specs:
pan: 10-12 ft lbs.
valve bodies and pack: 80 - 100 Inch lbs


took her for a little test run............much better.she doesn't have the nice solid lockup like chip truck with the front pump mods of course,but im not pulling a trans for that.not in the cold anyway.this is nice.real nice.shifts are "for sure there" while normal driving,unlike before "did that upshift? i missed it?" and "yup i feel ya baby,lets go to work" when feeding her some oil.;Sweet


now,your half way home to a flush.be silly not to drain that converter and just do the complete job at this time.
if your lucky,the previous owner (or yourself) already did you a solid and didn't re-install that stupid shield bolt up by the starter.if it's still there.....i feel for ya.i left mine out last time i replaced my starter on chip truck.someone already did me the favor on this truck (yeah baby!)
so simply turn out the two at the bottom and and using an extension it does get that one up on the other side even though the exhaust does look directly in the path.use a wrench if you have too.
next,caution: though it's not likely (odds are so low it's silly) go ahead and just pull the FSS off on the IP just for extra safety......oh just do it.it'll take a ya 5 seconds.
grab a 5/16 socket with 1/2 drive ratchet and turn the engine over while you keep looking for the drain on the converter.drain 'er out.go grab a cup of joe.it takes a while.
attachment.php

attachment.php



fill her up! get ready for approx 18 quarts for the 4wd version.
i only grabbed 14 quarts as shown cus i thought for sure i had like 6 left over from a case or something.i looked all around and couldn't find it.i had to run out for more.so check to see what you have on hand first lol.
if using a 4r100 pan,be sure to always ask for a 4wd filter from now on,even if you own a 2wd truck.
attachment.php

attachment.php



the small package is unrelated.it's a replacement tach sensor.the large box below is the 4r100 pan part #.
these are "4wd" depth and require a "4wd" filter asked at stores from now on.don't try and explain what you did unless you want to shoot the breeze for a while and confuse the counter person lmao.
for me nothing changed anyway so nothing to remember.my chip truck is a 4wd anyway,and the f-super all use the 4wd trans (due to the parking brake.)
for you 2wd guys,don't forget "4wd" from now on if you use this pan.
attachment.php



torque specs:
pan: 10-12 ft lbs.
valve bodies and pack: 80 - 100 Inch lbs


took her for a little test run............much better.she doesn't have the nice solid lockup like chip truck with the front pump mods of course,but im not pulling a trans for that.not in the cold anyway.this is nice.real nice.shifts are "for sure there" while normal driving,unlike before "did that upshift? i missed it?" and "yup i feel ya baby,lets go to work" when feeding her some oil.;Sweet

hope your enjoying the log truck show here on channle 444.stay tuned for the next round.
merry Christmas boys!
 

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FORDF250HDXLT

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once your done with this, would you like to take a break from the cold and come out to warm california for a couple days? 80 degrees here today. you can redo the trailer wiring on my truck!! it is on my to-do list. have no idea what the PO did, except that it is wrong. all the wires are cut and butt jointed and switched around. seriously nice work so far, you do very clean professional work.

Everything looks good. Hey, least you got a clean ATF hair wash. You should try some dirty nasty stuff. I swear it smells for days.

I see you did your homework and did not remove those two bolts. You missed out on the excitement of loosing your balls.

Most importantly, you didn't drill the holes big. Most people will go big first then ***** about the harsh shifts. You can go larger but you can't go back.

Remember to torque all VB bolts 80-100 inch pounds. then drive it like you stole it.:D

thanks guys! merry Christmas.:cheers:
 

laserjock

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That's a great write-up on the shift kit. If my truck were an auto, I'd be all over that. :D

Still a good read.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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log truck is back! in this exciting (ok maybe not.just a little tinkering lol) episode here on channel 444, log truck gets a see through fuel bowl,some replacement interior a/c heater vents and some backup peepers!
it's been warm lately so i did a little tinkering of a few odds and ends.
 

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FORDF250HDXLT

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thus far on log truck:

+
@ 189,000 miles (Jan of 2014) vehicle purchased/before driven part 2:
A/C compressor clutch connector dorman #85152
A/C low pressure switch connector dorman #85154
replaced interior a/c-heater vents
replaced fuel bowl w/ clear parker #21057 (with fuel hose extension ground off to clear valve cover)
4" round backup lights installed
 

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LCAM-01XA

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Where did you get the backup lights and how good do they work? I finally killed the floods under my bumper and I'm thinking of replacing them with some driving lights up high in the bumper for more light spread/distance.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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a little something showed up today.i didn't plan to turbo this truck,but another used kit turned up and i just couldn't help myself.:D
i guess i'll have to install it then.:)

just have to order a few missing parts from banks.keep 'er right here on channel 444 as log truck gets the banks sidewinder kit installed soon.;Sweet
 

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FORDF250HDXLT

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tonight on log truck.............preparation of the banks turbo kit components has begun with exhaust wrap to maximize exhaust velocity and help insure quick,crisp,snappy off the line spool up.no one likes turbo lag.;Sweet
 

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FORDF250HDXLT

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in this episode of log truck...............it's the installation of the 2nd generation banks turbo sidewinder kit........................

what is the banks turbocharger kit?
Trailer Life magazine:
Banks Power | Banks Sidewinder Turbo

and see pages 6-9 of this one:
http://assets.bankspower.com.s3.amazonaws.com/test_reports/Sidewinder_FordChev/index.html

and lastly,the owners manual with install instructions of which i'll be displaying pics of as i go along for anyone who may find these real view install pics handy someday:
http://assets.bankspower.com/manuals/405/96310-v3-web.pdf



this is the install of a used banks sidewinder w/ wastegate.the same type of used turbo kit i installed close to 2 years ago on my f250.some of the parts are missing.they are currently being shipped from banks.rather than wait (it's decent weather right now.with just above freezing temps finally.so i don't want to wast it) i will be skipping some steps temporarily,but rest assured the few missed steps won't be forgotten.they will eventually be posted (though perhaps out of order towards the end of the instructions) before it's over.;Sweet


Installation Instructions

1.Disconnect ground cables from both batteries.
Disconnect electrical connections from top of
injection pump.

&

2.Disconnect plastic air inlet duct from air cleaner
housing and remove air cleaner housing and
filter. Cover intake manifold opening to prevent any foreign
object from falling into the manifold.

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3.Disconnect wire from oil pressure gauge sending
unit (located at the upper rear of engine),
and remove oil pressure sender unit and its connections
from the engine. On some models, the oil pressure
sender is mounted on the firewall (remove fittings,
hose and bracket, etc. if firewall mounted). Retain
sender for later installation. Install a 1⁄8” NPT brass pipe
plug in the hole at the rear of the engine where the
sender unit was removed. Use Teflon tape or sealant
on the threads.

additional note (7.3l) a 1/8 pipe plug was too small.i simply removed the factory long extension and used the bushing i had installed earlier for my auto meter gauge down into the block with the 1/8 npt plug screwed into this.the oem extension needs to be removed due to the heat shield you'll be installing latter.
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4.Remove inspection cover plate from front of
engine forward of injection pump (on pre-1987
models, remove oil fill pipe from this location).

&

5.INJECTION PUMP ADJUSTMENT: To obtain
the maximum available performance from your
BANKS 6.9/7.3L Sidewinder diesel turbo system, and
to comply with emissions requirements, it is necessary
to make an adjustment to the fuel injection pump. The
pump adjustment increases the fuel delivery capacity
of the pump. These adjustments are made by turning
an internal screw, found within the pump. The pump
adjustment will provide a greater increase in rear
wheel horsepower, suitable for general use, work
trucks and towing. These adjustments are the ONLY
emissions legal settings.
• 49 states and California thru ’91: 90 ° or 1⁄4 turn clockwise.
• California only, ’92 and later models: 60° or 1⁄6 turn
clockwise
NOTE: Exhaust gas temperature (EGT) must NOT exceed
1050°F. If the EGT approaches this temperature under
heavy, uphill load, the fuel pump capacity adjustment
must be reduced.
Adjust injector pump delivery, as follows:
CAUTION: The engine must be cold before starting this
procedure.
NOTE: Do not allow any foreign material, including lint
from rags, to enter the injector pump during the adjustment
procedure. Lay removed parts on a clean newspaper
during the adjustment procedure.
A. Place a drip pan under the flywheel inspection cover
area at the rear of the engine, to catch spilled fuel.
Clean the small access cover area of the pump, located
on the left side, with diesel fuel or parts solvent.
B. Remove the cover plate, retained by two small
screws. Use care not to damage the rubber gasket; it will be reused during reassembly.
C. Rotate engine slowly by hand, in a clockwise direction,
using a breaker bar, short extension and suitable
socket on the harmonic balancer retaining bolt, to align
the injector drive pin, as viewed through the opening
for the oil fill pipe or inspection cover, in a straight up
(12 o’clock) position. Using a small mirror, check that
the Allen-head adjustment screw is visible within the
inspection hole on the pump. It may be necessary to
rotate the engine somewhat more to gain access to
the adjusting screw. See FIGURE 2.
CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft using the starter.
Even though the fuel solenoid is de-energized, the
engine can still start. This is extremely hazardous and
can result in both severe personal injury and major
mechanical damage.
D. Using a 5⁄32” Allen wrench, rotate the screw clockwise,
by the amount indicated for year model.
NOTE: Keep track of your adjustments! The Allen
screw turns fairly tightly and is self locking. Turning the
screw clockwise increases fuel delivery capacity.
E. Replace access cover on pump. Again, exercise care
to prevent foreign material from entering pump.

additional note; in short: turn the ip up a flat lol.

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6.Remove the engine lifting lugs from the rear
corners of the intake manifold. Replace bolts
with four 3⁄8 – 16 x 21⁄2” hex bolts and 3⁄8 split lock washers.
Do not re-install lifting lugs.
NOTE: On automatic transmission models with C-6
three speed transmission, disconnect transmission
modulator tube from clip on transmission and temporarily
bend tube away from bellhousing area.

7.Remove the crankcase anti-depression valve
(the round sheet metal can that is attached to
the rear of the intake manifold). Remove standpipe
and grommet from valley cover where valve was
attached (standpipe may come out attached to antidepression
valve). Retain anti-depression valve and
bolts for later installation.
NOTE: On ’87 and later models, remove short length of
hose and clamp from anti-depression valve.

8.On models where fuel injector return hose passes
from one side of the engine to the other
behind the intake manifold inlet, re-route the hose in
front as shown in Figure 3. This removes the hose
from high heat areas.

9.Locate oil pressure gauge sender wire (disconnected
in step 3). Carefully pull approximately
one foot of this free from the wire loom jacket.
(step 9 is skipped.i ran a devoted line to a auto meter gauge.the oem sender will be left dead ended in the loom on my truck.)

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keep her right here on channel 444 as log truck gets some more turbo install action tomorrow before the big game!;Sweet
 

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FORDF250HDXLT

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welcome to the super bowl after show here on channel 444!

tonight on log truck,it's the continuation of the sidewinder kit prep as log truck looses it's skinny factory exhaust with a few more preparations for the turbo kit.


10.Carefully clean around the hole where the original
grommet was installed at the rear of the
valley cover and where the anti-depression valve was
mounted on intake manifold. Use acetone, lacquer thinner
or other non-oil based solvent. Install grommet in
valley cover as follows. Fill new grommet groove with
RTV silicone sealer provided. Press grommet through
opening in valley cover and smooth RTV around grommet.
Remove excess RTV. See Figure 6. temporarily skipped: Install rubber
o-ring in groove in manifold block-off plate. See
Figure 6. Install manifold block-off plate (and o-ring)
on intake manifold where anti-depression valve was
removed, using two 5⁄16” – 18 x 1” hex head bolts and
split lock washers. See Figure 6. Do not tighten bolts
at this time.

additional info; so im waiting for the gasket kit which will come with the few hard parts iv ordered.the cdr block off plate will need to wait so i can use a new o-ring on it,but i had ordered a spare grommet for the valley pan for the f250 (i didn't notice at the time it was part of the gasket kit) so i was able to go ahead with this step.though you can't really see,i did go ahead and punch 4-5 holes into the pan here to help the oil drain faster.
i do suspect this is where my oil drip might be coming from on the f250 as i felt around up there and see it's a bit oily.

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11.Remove and discard the hose clamp from the
heater hose connection on the water pump.
Hose clamp may be loosened and cut with snips to
avoid disconnecting hose.
A. Thoroughly degrease the injector pump drive cover
flange (oil fill-pipe flange on pre-1987 models) using
acetone, lacquer thinner, or other non-oil based solvent.
Install the crankcase vent hose adapter and
original cover (or oil fill pipe) using two 5⁄16 – 18 x 2” hex
bolts and two 5⁄16 split lock washers. Use silicone sealer
at both joints.
B. Replace the hose clamp previously removed from
the heater hose with a No. 10 hose clamp. Keep the
tail of the hose clamp clear of the drive belt. See
Figure 7.


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12.Remove exhaust head pipes and exhaust system,
including muffler and tailpipe.

additional note;
though this is a used kit without exhaust,i'll still be updating the whole system myself to 3.5" so she all has to go.

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13.On automatic transmission models, remove
the transmission dipstick and then remove
the dipstick tube from the transmission. Retain all
these components for later installation. Cover the
dipstick tube opening with a paper towel or tape to
prevent contamination from entering the transmission.
Remove 1⁄8” NPT pipe plug for oil feed connection,
located on lower left side at rear of engine block,
above and to the rear of the oil filter. See Figure 8.
temporarily skipped: Install the shorter 1⁄8” NPT x – 4AN elbow fitting where
the pipe plug was removed. Use Teflon tape on the
threads. Aim elbow at approximately one o’clock position
when tightening.
A. Install and tighten one end of the braided stainless
steel oil feed hose to the elbow fitting. Cover the open
end of the hose with tape during installation.
B. Remove the top left hand transmission-to-engine
bolt (bell housing-to-engine bolt on manual transmission
models). See Figure 9.

additional note; one of the items i just had banks send with my parts list was the elbow.

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hope you all ate lots of buffalo wings and had fun with friends and family at super bowl parties.keep it right here for more prep/install of the banks sidewinder here on channel 444 very soon!;Sweet
 

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FORDF250HDXLT

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.................limit 10 pics attached per post........additional attachment post.................
 

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Drew2010

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Nice work on the turbo install so far. I would say you'll love it, but you've already got a turbo on your 93...

On a side note, I would put your 7 and 4 way wiring plug in the rear hitch plate. if you cut out the spot the same as the bracket, it will snap it even on thicker material. I had one flush mounted on the DMI bumper on my 97... No chance of being ripped off.
 

79jasper

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Oh boy, surprised no one has said anything about your use of Teflon tape. Lol
Just wait, someone (or multiple) will have a heart attack. ROFL

Good work, as usual.

Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
 

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