Water Pump Time

RANOVRU

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You mean the under relay/fuse box? I glanced through that one first in the manual but didnt see anything suitable??

Ill run out and check it again...
 

itsacrazyasian

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You mean the under relay/fuse box? I glanced through that one first in the manual but didnt see anything suitable??

Ill run out and check it again...

Yup, mine is tapped off of a 15 amp fuse to power my fans and fuel pump. Power is hot only when the key is in the ON position.
 

RANOVRU

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The only thing I see in the underhood box possible would be maybe the starter relay coil??

Since Ive already got the wire at the inside box I guess I could do the radio fuse? Thats ign activated.

What do you think...
 

itsacrazyasian

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The only thing I see in the underhood box possible would be maybe the starter relay coil??

Since Ive already got the wire at the inside box I guess I could do the radio fuse? Thats ign activated.

What do you think...

theres a few ignition hot sources at both fuse boxes. the problem with using the radio fuse is, its hot when the key is in accessory. fan runs when key is on listening to the radio.
 

itsacrazyasian

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fuse #7 inside. its the fuse for the turn signals and rear defrost if equipped is what i tapped for hot key on power for my accessories.
 

itsacrazyasian

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it powers both turn signals and rear defrost if equipped. It means it only has power from the ignition switch when the key is turned to the run position.

Basically how your turn signals (not hazards) work only when the key is in the run position.

This way you can listen to the radio or roll your windows up with the key in the accessory position and the fan isn't powered.
 

Jbevs

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Even if the temps are below the switch on point?

Since you wired in a thermostat, you should be able to use an accessory hot as well. By that same logic you could use a constant hot, so the fan could keep going after you shut it off for a little bit. You should probably just listen the the crazy asian. cookoo:rotflmao
 

BioFarmer93

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It looks from your photo that the sheet metal in your new "shroud" fits right up against the back of the radiator, is this the case? If so, why? That may be a kick ass fan but it's only pulling through one (much reduced) area, and you lose all of the benefit from driving induced airflow throughout the rest of radiator. If that shroud plate IS really as close as you show it in the photo, then you honestly need to rethink your e-fan mounting now, so you don't have to pull it and redo it when the weather warms back up... Just sayin';Really
 

itsacrazyasian

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It looks from your photo that the sheet metal in your new "shroud" fits right up against the back of the radiator, is this the case? If so, why? That may be a kick ass fan but it's only pulling through one (much reduced) area, and you lose all of the benefit from driving induced airflow throughout the rest of radiator. If that shroud plate IS really as close as you show it in the photo, then you honestly need to rethink your e-fan mounting now, so you don't have to pull it and redo it when the weather warms back up... Just sayin';Really

I posted a few replies back that he should add flaps to the shroud that will pass air when driving down the road but close when the fan is doing its thing while at a standstill.
 

RANOVRU

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Crazyasian, if the ign activated source is the radio that doesnt mean its going to run all of the time, its on a thermostat activated switch.

If the key were turned back to just listen to the radio AND the temps were high enough for the thermo to turn on then yeah the fan would run for a couple of minutes until it got below the OFF temp, I dont really see where thats a nd bad thing IF I chose to turn the key back. IDK about you but Im not regularly sitting in my truck with it off and the radio on. If I just cut the truck off regardless of the temp the fan will cut off.
 

itsacrazyasian

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Crazyasian, if the ign activated source is the radio that doesnt mean its going to run all of the time, its on a thermostat activated switch.

If the key were turned back to just listen to the radio AND the temps were high enough for the thermo to turn on then yeah the fan would run for a couple of minutes until it got below the OFF temp, I dont really see where thats a nd bad thing IF I chose to turn the key back. IDK about you but Im not regularly sitting in my truck with it off and the radio on. If I just cut the truck off regardless of the temp the fan will cut off.

well its just the way I personally like to wire it. Mine is thermostatic too, the probe is in the upper hose. Fan turns on low speed at 200F off at 185F, anything over 205 and its on high speed. It'll also run on low when the ac head pressure is above 120 and on high over 175psi. What i find is my fan will run many times when i shut down and listen to the radio when i wait to pick my friend's daughter up. Or i leave my friends in the truck and the fan will run for up to 10 minutes. So i put it on a run circuit only, like you would a electric fuel pump. With my high amp fans, 10 minutes of running draws alot of power.
 

Agnem

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You've got the right idea, but that absolutely positively IS going to come back to bite you in the butt. You can try to run it that way now, but why not do it the way it really has to be done? Why risk an overheat when you have so little to do to correct it? The problem with your design as has been mentioned, is that you have shut off the air flow to most of your radiator. Only the area in front of the fan is going to cool, and 1 square foot or whatever that is absolutely will not cut it. Not only that, but there is no chance of ever running without having the fan on. Even at road speed, a fan is hardly necessary on a stock truck, but you've blocked the airflow to a huge amount of cooling area. Now if you could stand that plate off by an inch or two, things would improve dramatically. You can deny the laws of physics all you want, but much like death, no matter how we try to think our way out of it, the inevitable will occur.
 

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