70 amps alternator wire question

UslAura1

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Hello, i have a 1992 f250 with a 7.3 idi, i have a 70 amps alternator just like the one in the picture, i have sent it to be rebuilt since the brushes holder were used and the bearings too, now i’m reinstalling it and i found a wire that wasnt connected and a connector, asking what they are used for? Got a feeling the single one goes on top were there’s a small stud
 

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Nero

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That is the water in fuel sensor wire. You dont need it plugged in.
 

UslAura1

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Alright thanks! But when i turn on my high beams my voltage gauge seems to lower alot, like 14 volts to maybe 10, i have two small led spotlights, any idea why they are drawing more amps than usual?
 

IDIBRONCO

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How is your alternator and regulator? Have you had either one of them checked? It sounds to me like your charging system isn't charging enough. I doubt that the headlights are drawing more amps than they used to.
 

UslAura1

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The alternator has been rebuilt two days ago, wjere is the regulator??
 

Nero

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Regulator is internal on that model.

Are you referring to the factory gauge dropping? Thats not a volt gauge, its an ammeter. Check your voltage with a digital volt meter.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Regulator is internal on that model
Look again at the pictures. That sure looks like a 1G alternator to me. I believe that 1992 was a crossover year and some had the 1G alternators with V belts.
The regulator is on the passenger's side fender. It will be kind of square shaped, not very tall. The wiring plug will be pretty wide.
 

Nero

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Look again at the pictures. That sure looks like a 1G alternator to me. I believe that 1992 was a crossover year and some had the 1G alternators with V belts.
The regulator is on the passenger's side fender. It will be kind of square shaped, not very tall. The wiring plug will be pretty wide.
You are correct, had another thread mixed up. 1g has external. I see the adjuster bar now.
 

Nero

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Verify you have battery voltage at pin A,
Verify you have igniton power at pin I
Verify you have continuity for both pin S and F to the alternator connector, and that the regulator is well grounded on the body.

If all checks out and voltage is poor, probably a bad regulator.

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Remember, check your alternator voltage with a multi meter. Dont rely on the dash gauge, it is an ammeter, not a volt meter.
 

franklin2

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It's very easy to burn out that fusible link in the large black/orange output wire. No one takes the batteries loose when changing the alternator, one little oops of that wire to a piece metal on the engine when changing the alternator is all it takes to burn that fusible link in two.

The way to check it, if you can get to it, is to take a meter put the black lead on ground, and touch the red meter lead to the large terminal on the back of the alternator, engine and key must be off. You should have battery voltage there. If you don't, that fusible link is burned out.
 

franklin2

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Find it odd not having a ground wire on the post on the case. Probably not the issue though.

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I added one before on a very rusty northern truck I was working on. But the factory did not ground them with a wire, they are grounded through the mounting brackets to the block.
 

UslAura1

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It's very easy to burn out that fusible link in the large black/orange output wire. No one takes the batteries loose when changing the alternator, one little oops of that wire to a piece metal on the engine when changing the alternator is all it takes to burn that fusible link in two.

The way to check it, if you can get to it, is to take a meter put the black lead on ground, and touch the red meter lead to the large terminal on the back of the alternator, engine and key must be off. You should have battery voltage there. If you don't, that fusible link is burned out.
Where is that fusible link located?
 

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