One pump to rule them all

[1mouse3]

I chose to go with a saginaw pump along with hydroboost. The reason is I do not want a pump whing for any other reason than low fluid. This is a psc adapter for a 351w that they no longer make. it has four tappered holes for recessed screews that mount it to the pump. Two of them have a bushing for a flat mounting face.

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With the pump in the bracket, it is about agence the bottom. A notch on the drivers side had to be made for it to and at the for the feed tube. This is a 60s bbc can and think one for a 80s gm idi is about the same, one above is a 80s or 90s bbc I think it was. Look at it from the back it needs to spin counter clock wise slightly and up and to the pass side. There is a stud boss that wont let move much to the pass side and is why it also needs to move up. Moving it up, counter clockwise and to the pass side would give more room for the feed pipe as well.

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This is with it on the engine

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This is template I made of it if someone wants to improve apown this, arrow is to the pass side I think.

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[Clb]

Nice bit of tech.
Here's hoping that pump STAYS in production.
Fill in your reasoning as to this pump vs the usual ferd item please.
Also any extra info for the guys to come later.

 

[mblaney]

I NEED THIS! I hate the GD POS Ford pump. I hope I made my feelings clear?

Questions:
1. what saginaw pump is that? Part number?
2. Is the pump shaft long enough for the pulley to align? I think most are too short.
3. Can you confirm the pump shaft diameter?
4. Do you have a pulley for it? Stock or did you source a replacement?
5. Does it use a remote reservoir, or how do you plan to fill it?

Comment: I also have hydroboost; are you planning on adding a separate return port?

Please, I hope this works!

 

[1mouse3]

Nice bit of tech.
Here's hoping that pump STAYS in production.
Fill in your reasoning as to this pump vs the usual ferd item please.
Also any extra info for the guys to come later.

Reasoning this pump seems more skookum, its also tryed and true with how much it was used over time. I have found the ford pump to be noisy in cars under the high demand of a rack and pinion, so I would think the same with a hydroboost. I think what I found on them in regard to psi is the ford is 900 and saginaw 1100-1450, need to recheck those. The saginaw has had many different flow control valve that have been used, a standard one is 1100 and hydroboost units around 1450. If I rember right, 1450 is ideal psi for hydroboost. This probably why the e-vans got this pump since they have hydroboost. There was a saginaw pump that came with a ford adaptor in 70s lincoln with hydroboost also, dont think there is any valid numbers for this anymore. So Im under the assumption this is the best pump for the job that is requested.

I NEED THIS! I hate the GD POS Ford pump. I hope I made my feelings clear?

Questions:
1. what saginaw pump is that? Part number?
2. Is the pump shaft long enough for the pulley to align? I think most are too short.
3. Can you confirm the pump shaft diameter?
4. Do you have a pulley for it? Stock or did you source a replacement?
5. Does it use a remote reservoir, or how do you plan to fill it?

Comment: I also have hydroboost; are you planning on adding a separate return port?

Please, I hope this works!

I have grabed 3 over the years digging through junk yards, all I remeber is there from gms and one is from a hydroboost truck. Did find this gm oem number thats still vaild for one that would have the corect flow valve for hydroboost, its ACDelco 20756715. For the pully, I think one off a e-van with this pump should work at number 300-020. Need to go down to the yard to grab one and see if works. The shat is ruffly 3/4 and matches what is listed for that pully.

The can Im using is for a remote reservoir and am going to use a Fleetguard A029J816 with a internal filter. A smaller one can be found on a mid 2000s topkick/kodiak that is plastic with a filter aswell. For return off gear and hydroboost, am going to do -6 teed to a -10 to the reservoir then -10 to the pump, this is using the two 1/2 orb ports. With this reservoir can do with the 1-1/4 orb to between -14 and -20 jic, so may do a lager line at a later date. Will be mounting it inplace of the drivers side battery and moving the cooling reservoir to pass battery location for easy access of both. Both batterys are going to be on a marine boat lift tray I put on the frame, will do a h6 or h7 agm so can be side mounted.

Edit: the return port off the can is going to have a -6 hose zip tied out the way with a cap that can be droped to serve a drain for the system. I was thinking to do a bleed line as well to the reservoir but could not find fitting to do so.

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edit: edit: This is the mid 2000s topkick/kodiak remote reservoir I metioned. You can use this in place of the cooling reservoir and move that to the pass side to retain the orginal location of the batterys if you want.

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[IDIBRONCO]

The reason is I do not want a pump whing for any other reason than low fluid.

And here I always thought that's the way you can tell that you're driving a Ford. By the whining power steering pump.

 

[Clb]

My 93 don't\has not, no way to hear **** over the holley red now!

 

[1mouse3]

edit: edit: This is the mid 2000s topkick/kodiak remote reservoir I metioned. You can use this in place of the cooling reservoir of the and move that to the pass side to retain the orginal location of the batterys if you want.

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found a mid 2000s freightliner has one that would fit a bit beter in place of the cooling reservoir, it is also filtered. Dorman 603-5206 is the part number on this one, so another option on the table.

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[1mouse3]

Went diging in the junk yard and all I found was a pully on a I6 E150 with the sag. With it 2/3's the way on its level with the others, so the other number I gave is correct I would assume. This one stands proud more than that one looking at photos. Think this one might due for now till can find that one.

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Was digging through old photos for something else and found this. This is what led me to find that pump number I posted earlyer.

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[rhkcommander]

I did something similar with junkyard parts. Not a fan of the partial shank on pulley but you can leave a bolt in to help I guess

 

[1mouse3]

I did something similar with junkyard parts. Not a fan of the partial shank on pulley but you can leave a bolt in to help I guess

Yea, running this pully is not ideal but funds are short. I also have lost parts like the front have of the rear drive shaft and drivers side manifold, cant seem to find another curently. So many wrenches getting thrown in the works is not helping at the moment to get this truck done. Did find another pulley a PSC PP2450 that there is a good photo of, this would move it in 1/4 to 1/3. Its the same cost of $70 as the 300-020, so two choices to gamble at. Will have to think about whether am going to go for eather.

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[rhkcommander]

Not sure what else gets bolted onto that ps pump / ac bracket, could you shim it from behind with washers? It looks like you have plenty of space between the pulley and bracket

 

[1mouse3]

It looks like you have plenty of space between the pulley and bracket

Yea I was eyeing that gap as well but have a different thought brewing in my head. SInce the pump would have 4 bosses that it would mount with, that would leave a void to work with. I might be able to bolt a plate to the front side where the adaptor is removed to move the pump forward, the adaptor is 3/8in. So will be pulling it apart to what I have to work with.

 

[1mouse3]

I started today by seeing if it is plausible to mount the pump without the adapter behind the bracket.

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It was so grabed a free steel plate. Then was on to drilling a few holes and porting a hole for the pump. The pump is now 7/16in moved foword and the pulley should now go most the way on.

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With the pump here, the hole in the side is no longer needed. Will get another bracket down the road.

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Will give more info on this and mount this on engine tomorrow.

 

[1mouse3]

This is a inside shot of the bolts and bussings used. The top right is beveled to give clearance for the pump and a old bolt hole is leveled as well.

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Now with the pulley level there is full penetration. This pulley is e8ua-3d673-ba and a dorman number is unkown.

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This is a template of what is used and can be used as a guide for one on the inside if a better pulley is acquired. 300-138 is a 1/2in big in diameter and 300-137 might be a plausible option but not as grate of a offset. Unsure when I will get back to this and find a less intrusive path to installation.

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[1mouse3]

I have got all the lines and the tank fitted for the power steering. I was mistaken on size of the tube on the can, mixed it up with the one on the other can I have sitting. Its 13/16, so returned a few fittings and got -12 where I stuffed that on that tube. The line coiled up is drain/bleed off the pump and unsure on it final place at the moment. 90* fittings off the bottom of the tank would had been better but glad got what could be had locally, because 2 fittings got lost from summit.

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The feed from the pump to the hydroboost is two cut end off lines I had sitting and a cheep 1ft compression hose I got made.

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This is how I mounted the tank, its two pieces of angle iron with slits cut for hose clamps.

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I have also size a belt for the engine as well, its a K061093 belt at 109-3/4in.

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