Key won't shut off engine

[frankenwrench]

Trying to make sure I don't waste money and time on the wrong stuff here. I had to replace my ignition cylinder a while back due to a steering wheel issue. Maybe 3 years ago. Haven't had an issue till about 20 min ago. When I take my keys out of the ignition the truck remains running. I pulled the rear ds wire off my IP and it continues to run. That's the shut-off switch malfunction on the up correct? With key off I get no voltage to that wire, key on I get 11v so my ignition and wiring aren't to blame or am I missing something?

 

[frankenwrench]

And now all of a sudden my battery light stays on with the key off and out of the ignition as well. Wth goin on here?

 

[Thewespaul]

Sounds like the fuel shut off valve isn’t working, either your metering valve is sticking preventing it from closing fuel flow off or the solenoid has gotten weak. The solenoid is replaceable, if you don’t have any spare top covers I can send you a replacement solenoid and you’ll get it tomorrow.

Pull the top cover off the pump and make sure the metering valve is moving freely and the solenoid case isn’t cracking

 

[frankenwrench]

I will do that today after work. Now with that being said, would that be related to my battery and rabs lights staying on with key off and out of the ignition? Being that it happened at the same time I don't know if that is a coincidence or if these symptoms are related to one another.

 

[retiredinhomer]

Check out the ignition cylinder again. Especially if you remove the key in any position other than off. It sounds like the key is coming out in the accessory position.

 

[frankenwrench]

Check out the ignition cylinder again. Especially if you remove the key in any position other than off. It sounds like the key is coming out in the accessory position.

Key cylinder only releases when it's in the lock position. Tried it anyways just to be sure, but to no avail. Even wen I turn the key all the way back to accessories it changes nothing. Gp light won't even come on without disconecting batteries. I believe the not so old ignition cylinder may be faulty. After sitting a few hours batteries are dead. Had to be jumped off. I guess the ignition as well as the fuel shut-off decided to go within a few minutes of one another. While running I pulled all 3 wires from up and still running so I believe I have two separate problems. Thank you all for your suggestions and I guess I have some work to do after work in these frigid 30* temps. Lol. Yes, I'm a pansy when it comes to cold.

 

[chillman88]

I wouldn't think it could be the ignition cylinder the way you're describing it. Could definitely be the ignition switch. What year is the truck? 91 down has the ignition switch at the base of the column, no clue about 92+

 

[frankenwrench]

It's a 91 and wen I say ignition cylinder I mean the part you put the key in and turn.

 

[chillman88]

Yeah I can't imagine that being the problem. It controls a rod that moves the actual ignition switch.

You definitely have multiple problems. The not shutting off problem is separate. You said you have voltage key on and no voltage key off, that's good but means it has to be internal to the IP. Either way it should have shut off when you disconnected the power to the IP.

Your issues with glow plugs and battery lights is a separate issue unless you have some weird bunch of wires shorting out.

You could possibly have a problem inside the column where the ignition cylinder GOES but replacing the ignition cylinder won't fix that. I've seen stripped gears inside the column cause similar problems.

You can try removing the ignition cylinder and manually moving the rod on the top of the column under the dash, see if moving that up one detent turns off that battery light. Sounds like it might not be pulling it back all the way. Tilt column or fixed?

I'm a pansy with the cold too and I live in NY lol.

 

[frankenwrench]

It's a fixed column out of an 85. Now I have voltage to pump key on or off. Idkwtf. Just found out my volt meter su shot as well.

 

[frankenwrench]

Ok so the shut-off solenoid was stuck. Got that loose and cover back on and had a bit of a runaway when I started it. Took cover back off and fidled with the metering valve and got everything how it looked wen I first pulled it off and got her started. She runs and idles fine and acts as it should throughout the rpm range, but still won't shut off with key. Left key in off position and battery light stays on and engine continues to run and disconected both batteries and unplugged the voltage regulator on passenger side fender, engine continues to run. Pull the wire to the fss and engine dies as it should when it's unplugged, but no other way other than stalling it or starving it of fuel. Took key cylinder out of steering column and worked the rod on top while engine is running all the way back and forward to no avail. Engine continues to run. I'm stumped

 

[chillman88]

You have a short somewhere. I personally would try swapping out that ignition switch on the bottom of the column.


I'd also look very closely at your wiring, especially near any potential rub points.

Check the engine harness where it attaches near the passenger side valve cover for any problems or signs of melting. The glow plug wires run through it from the factory and have been know to melt the plug.

It would be wise to check the wiring first, but I don't usually end up doing things in the correct order

 

[Thewespaul]

Start the truck and loosen the two 7/16” nuts holding the ignition switch at the bottom of the column and pull it towards the firewall and see if the engine shuts off which would mean the switch just needed adjusting, often times I find that’s all the problem is with ignition issues.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Agree with the last two ^. The ignition switch is very inexpensive (under $10) and easy to replace for a reason. It goes bad from time to time. If you cannot adjust it to shut off the engine, try a new one.

 

[Selahdoor]

Ok so the shut-off solenoid was stuck. Got that loose and cover back on and had a bit of a runaway when I started it. Took cover back off and fidled with the metering valve and got everything how it looked wen I first pulled it off and got her started. She runs and idles fine and acts as it should throughout the rpm range, but still won't shut off with key. Left key in off position and battery light stays on and engine continues to run and disconected both batteries and unplugged the voltage regulator on passenger side fender, engine continues to run. Pull the wire to the fss and engine dies as it should when it's unplugged, but no other way other than stalling it or starving it of fuel. Took key cylinder out of steering column and worked the rod on top while engine is running all the way back and forward to no avail. Engine continues to run. I'm stumped

It continued to run, even after you unplugged both batteries? And stopped when you pulled the wire off the IP solenoid??? What do you have in your truck that has it's own battery? Do you have something like a jump box, plugged into the cigarette lighter? Something has it's own power and is backfeeding.

It's not impossible for the engine to keep running after you disconnect both batteries. Although usually, it will go into runaway mode.

But to keep running with both batteries disconnected... And then to die if you unplug the fuel solenoid... That HAS to be the fuel solenoid getting power from somewhere besides your batteries.