USED OILS AS FUELS

[Mr_Roboto]

ALSO...about "used" filtered oils...even filtered for particle removal they carry the by-products of combusted fuels like acids, soots and I'm sure some other corrosive content. How can that be health for a engine to burn???

If it was that horrible your crankcase would have dissolved years ago. What makes the top end of your engine any less durable than your bottom end?

 

[Devilish]

If it was that horrible your crankcase would have dissolved years ago. What makes the top end of your engine any less durable than your bottom end?

So true!
Used oil gets thinned by unburned fuel that gets past the rings. That's why when you drain your oil it smells a bit like diesel fuel. So 2 things happen to used oil that's beneficial to us. Viscosity breakdown and increased combustible properties. The bad is foreign matter but the gritty part of that can be removed. If you can afford a centrifuge then that'll be your best investment towards the longevity of your diesel engine.

 

[JPR]

My question on running WMO is will it build up garbage on the valves, prechambers and injectors.

The opposite thought is the B20 I have been running has done wonders for cleaning and lubricating the injection system. My thought has been to mix 40% WMO, 40% #2 and 20% B100. That would cut the cost to $2.90/gallon plus filters.

Wish we could 1/3 or 1/2 propane mix since it is $3.05/gallon here.

 

[Devilish]

My question on running WMO is will it build up garbage on the valves, prechambers and injectors.

The opposite thought is the B20 I have been running has done wonders for cleaning and lubricating the injection system. My thought has been to mix 40% WMO, 40% #2 and 20% B100. That would cut the cost to $2.90/gallon plus filters.

Wish we could 1/3 or 1/2 propane mix since it is $3.05/gallon here.

That is the big question. If your injectors are in good working order then buildup should be very minimal or nothing at all. Injectors that drip, or don't give a good spray pattern will most likely cause build up.

 

[Michael Fowler]

As for the possible caustic stuff in WMO....
My feeling is that it is of little importance. The WMO used as fuel doesn't hang around the IP for long. It hits the IP, and then gets injected, burned, and exhausted. Some gets returned to the tank for a second, or third trip thru the IP, but it gets continually diluted.
As Mel pointed out in another thread--he saved $8600 in fuel costs over the last 2 years--no, wait, he had to replace the IP and injectors, so he netted ONLY a savings of $8200.

 

[Freight_Train]

Easiest and cheapest way to correctly filter used motor oil is to spin filter it.Centrifuge.You don't need a high dollar jobber.If you have one close by,hit a semi truck junk yard.A lot of macks had them factory.They run 100% off the oil pressure.Get a good 110V pump that can make the correct pressure and flow and just run the oil through it a couple times.You can even filter deep dark black oil back to nearly new apearing oil where you can see through it.Filters under a micron.Maybe mix some filter WMO with some Kerosene to thin it out.Too bad the IDI wasn't built like the LD-465.Could do like I do,87 oct and WMO 50-50 mix.

 

[MARQ2277]

Wow, you have a whole corral full of bad boy trucks. Which one is your favorite, or do you have one. My parents have several trucks also. All I have is my 90 4x4. It has to tow my house around, and double as a work truck, and my daily driver. So, with what $$ I do get, I am trying to make it as fuel effective, and reliable as possible. I am affraid that, things as we know it is going to the *******. I just want to make sure I got my truck, dog, and bullets for what ever comes!!

Marq
________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[MARQ2277]

I agree. With the price of fuels going up, you all know that it is going to get a lot worse. If you watch the news at all, you know that China and India are now competing for oil. And with China adding almost 25K vehicles a day to the mix, it is just a matter of time till the big machine breaks. In the next ten (10) years, we will be at war, fighting, and all hell will break loose when the fuel either starts to dry up, or costs $10-$15 a gallon. We are so dependant on it. I know that where I live, it's a five (5) mile drive to a store, hospital, food, or anything. For us who are getting older, have children, or are disabled, things are going to start to suck, and it's not funny at all. So, it's important to me that I start now in trying to figure out how to address the fuel issue now, not when the lead starts to fly, and it will.

Marq
________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[Jeff Dodson]

What about Synthetic oil, can it be mixed in as well. I run Synthetic oil in my wifes Expedition and in my Harley Davidson. The oil sits around untill I finally get around to taking it to Walmart or O'riely's to dump/ If I can just dump it in mt tank, I would rather do that.

 

[MARQ2277]

What's a good question. I believe another guy told me awhile back that he uses all of it. Synth, atf, etc. I believe that, so long as it is filtered correctly, it is the hydrocarbons that we are burning. The oil, is just a fluid medium for the hydrocarbons.

Burn on!!

Marq
_________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[HammerDown]

If it was that horrible your crankcase would have dissolved years ago. What makes the top end of your engine any less durable than your bottom end?

My comment about corrosive acids was mainly directed towards main/rod bearing surfaces, and that's why we change our engine oil in the first place.
What those acids and other by products found in "used oil" from a combustion/compression engine does to IP's, injectors, ring lands etc I have no idea > that's whay I ask.
Obviously a lot of people burn used oil as fuel regardless if it's problematic or not (fine by me)...just gives me the creeps.

Edit...my luck I would run it to find out down the road... BTW it's bad on intake/exhaust valve so you'll need head work as well as new IP and injectors...and maybe better get into the lower end because the piston rings are stuck in their grooves...>just (my) luck lol

 

[BigRigTech]

I doubt you would have any issues if you load your truck regularly to get it hot. $700 for a new fuel system (IP/inj), I could buy a new one every year from the fuel money I saved from burning WMO. I see old rig's with over a million on the clock using 4L-8L of oil a day, tear them down and and they are as clean as any other engine.

 

[HammerDown]

I doubt you would have any issues if you load your truck regularly to get it hot. $700 for a new fuel system (IP/inj), I could buy a new one every year from the fuel money I saved from burning WMO. I see old rig's with over a million on the clock using 4L-8L of oil a day, tear them down and and they are as clean as any other engine.

Well...if the above is infact true then I would say run it.
If the factor is the engine must work, have a serious load on it most of the time then I'm out. Heck...aside from pulling my 21' BBC Jet boat a few simple times a summer, my truck doesn't work at all.

 

[BigRigTech]

See in my case I can't burn the WMO in the winter but when it's warm enough to burn it my truck is worked pretty hard all summer...Firewood, junked trucks/parts, water for my lawn and other stuff keeps mine pulling a good load quite often...I'm also not running a heavy mixture either. 30-40% tops....As long as I can keep my fuel costs to $50/week I'm happy and I only use enough oil to accomplish that. I'm looking into WVO/bio-diesel now as I have found a free supply of 160L per week if I want it.

 

[Devilish]

BigRigTech you should swoop on that regardless if you use it right now or not! Also your thought that you can't run wmo in winter isn't quite true. If you are considering wvo for fuel that you must be planning to run a heated tank system. Because of that you can run wmo through same heated tank. Don't go making your own bioD. It's an expensive and time consuming process.