USED OILS AS FUELS

MARQ2277

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How much do you have to heat it, and how hard is it to do something like that. When I get my tax return, I am going to make a hold tank, and set up a electrict pump, with a good filter set up. I want to start using used motor oils at first; But, I also want to be able to use other bio fuels also. If I made two (2) tanks, with their own pumps and filters, or one pump and a set of filters, etc. How do you, or how hard is it to do a heated set up? Could you just heat the fuel as it leaves the tank, pre-filter; or do you have to heat the entire tank setup??

Marq
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If you got a bad head gasket, over torquing will not fix it, and you may break something. A lot of people don't realize what torquing actually does. Each bolt has slight stretch to them, that's what hold them in place. The torque value is the ultimate stretch point in which the bolt will hold. To little, and the bolt does not stretch enough for a proper hold. Too much, and the bolt looses its stretch/holding properties and at a point, will break. If anything, over torque will fatigue the holding ability, and you should at that point toss it. As for the mechanics. Back in the days, any body could and did turn a wrench, but like doctors and lawers, there's the good, bad and the ugly. These days, you have to be a rocket scientist to be a good mechanic, the dumb ones get recalls, while the real mechanics win races and events; and know how to do a job right; always doing proper prep and research, and making sure there's no short cuts, and that'll do her approach.

Marq
_________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

BigRigTech

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I don't have the time right now to gear my truck up for winter WMO or WVO, we are expecting twins in Sept and we have a 3yr old daughter now...LOL....I'm in the middle of prepping my F250 for paint and I have several other things to finish before the twins arrive....I'm considering making bio-diesel. I could make way more than I could use so I could sell some for a profit....Then we are back to the time crunch again...LOL....I will have some form of a heated tank system for burning oil/veg for the next winter after this one.
 

Devilish

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MARQ2277 There is some fabrication involved with making your own setup or you can purchase a premade kit. Basically you run a coil inside your tank of choice and run coolant through it to heat the oil. Also, you run the fuel line inside a coolant line to keep the oil hot to the engine compartment where you would have a tank switch. There is a little more to it but that is the basics.
 

MARQ2277

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Yikes. That actually sounds a bit technical, . . . I just wonder how much you got to heat the fuel, i.e. summer driving, versus winter; and, how much viscosity a standard IDI fuel system can handle without reliability issues??

Marq
__________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

MARQ2277

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What is an Artic Fox and Vegtherm?? Come on bro share the info. lol Is that a heater set up?? If so, where did you get it, and all that cool truck stuff!!

marq
____________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

MARQ2277

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You know, it may be a good idea to run an additive, like we do with sulfur diesel fuel. That way we could counter the effects of any corrosive particles Hammerdown brought to my attention. By the way thanks Hammerdown, I did not think about harmful particles that will be in used oils. Your right, the filter will remove the solids, but not any corrosive contamination that may (actually probably will be) in the used oil.

marq
___________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

Devilish

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Marq2277 I generally hear of 140-160 degrees for wvo to be viscious enough for using as a fuel. Most thermostats are 180-205 degrees. If you plan things right you could do a nice setup rather cheaply so doing the proper research and learning more about wvo, etc. would benefit you greatly. Google wvo and mercedes. That'll get you great general info on wvo systems. As far as the corrosiveness of wvo just replace rubber components in the injection system with items made of viton and things will be ok. Animal fat don't eat metal
 

MARQ2277

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Cool brother. I love it when I get great information. I'll get right on that. I want to have a plan in action when I get my freebe check from the Gov. I am hoping to do some sort of wvo/umo set up, get a pyro gauge, and a tranny cooling set up to complete my current mods.

If you get any other information let me know, rock star!!! lol

Marq
_____________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

HammerDown

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You know, it may be a good idea to run an additive, like we do with sulfur diesel fuel. That way we could counter the effects of any corrosive particles Hammerdown brought to my attention. By the way thanks Hammerdown, I did not think about harmful particles that will be in used oils. Your right, the filter will remove the solids, but not any corrosive contamination that may (actually probably will be) in the used oil.
marq
:
Please keep in mind I've owned and babied my truck since new 20-years ago. For me to consider burning WVO may be one thing but, (I) personally did'nt do a strict regimen of preventive maintenance for the past 20 years to take a chance what burning "used engine oil" as fuel may or may not do to my engine.
Guess I'm a wuss but then again I was leary about putting 8 oz's of CLEAN 2-stroke oil in my fuel. :D
 

Devilish

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Mom has a 2006 F250 Diesel, can she run waste motor oil as well or will that mess with her computer

Don't know what the long term effects are on the emissions system yet. I guy in California said recently that he's mixing 50% and his 2003 is running fine. Imho, investing in a centrifuge filtration system would be almost necessary to run wmo in such a new truck
 

nightrunner84

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Sorry, joined the thread late. I've been running 100% for 6 months and thousands of miles, but this morning something strange happened. I ran my oil tank pretty low (not out of fuel) and put about 2 gallons of new oil in the tank. On my way to work I switched to the rear tank. The truck fell flat on its face, barly ran, thank god I was at a cruise and was able to switch back before I had to pull away from a stoplight. At work I filled up on WMO, then pulled a trailer home. Ran fine. I'm a believer that new oil will not run in our trucks because I know that the oil I used was not synthetic and normal 5w20.
 

Fordsandguns

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I've got a mixture of 60% new 30 wt and 40% diesel in mine and it runs fine. I came across some new non-detergent 30wt for a dollar a gallon and I've ran a chunk of it without a hitch.
 
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