IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Mine usually runs right on the bottom edge of the 190 mark in my truck. You don't have anything to worry about.
Traveller Smurf (Cubey's '89 van)
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
I did remove the radiator cap this evening (totally cool) and it didn't push out any coolant, so it was low. I topped off directly into the radiator. The overflow isn't overly full, so it should be fine. I know for a fact it was a bit low from it leaking from the old water pump and some going to a small waste bottle during the water pump replacement. A little went on the ground too.
Front shocks done today. What's with right sides always being totally shot? Left is noisy when releasing but it does at least. Right side is compressed and stays.
Thank goodness for that cut out. I don't think it can be done without it. It has an unknown line with a hose on it, running right against the bushing/washer/nut that had to be pushed away with a 3/4" open end wrench to put on the bushing and washer.
The right side was difficult too. The lower metal bushing was poking out into the mounting bracket. It looks a bit trashed too so I dug out some washers. It must a longer replacement bolt because on the left side, I added washers and it's almost too short.
Oh and the new shocks came totally uncompressed so I had to rig a lashing strap around them to compress them to install them.
Rears will be another day and shouldn't be as bad.
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Thank goodness for that cut out. I don't think it can be done without it. It has an unknown line with a hose on it, running right against the bushing/washer/nut that had to be pushed away with a 3/4" open end wrench to put on the bushing and washer.
You must be registered for see images attach
The right side was difficult too. The lower metal bushing was poking out into the mounting bracket. It looks a bit trashed too so I dug out some washers. It must a longer replacement bolt because on the left side, I added washers and it's almost too short.
You must be registered for see images attach
Oh and the new shocks came totally uncompressed so I had to rig a lashing strap around them to compress them to install them.
Rears will be another day and shouldn't be as bad.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
What shocks did you reinstall?
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The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Same here. I have two aftermarket coolant temp gauges, because one was cheap and part of a 3-gauge set, then got a nicer one later for my pillar pod and kept them both.
One in each head! 190* is right on for a fully warmed up IDI in my experience.
R Kingsbury
Registered User
My f250 with wore out everything sits closer to 200f, something to do with this thermostat
Same here. I have two aftermarket coolant temp gauges, because one was cheap and part of a 3-gauge set, then got a nicer one later for my pillar pod and kept them both.
Hm, well the RV ran cooler for some reason for sure. 180-185ish at slower speeds when fully warmed up.
The RV ran 200ish until it got a new Motorcraft fan clutch and thermostat. Instantly 15-20 cooler. I could tell the fan clutch was tired though. It wasn't too much more to do the thermostat at the same time.
R Kingsbury
Registered User
fan clutch and thermostat are both motorcraft but theyre like OE aged. Ive been too paranoid about moving the thermostat housing and having it leak (again) to change the thermostat from the temporary i threw in. But i also know my original radiator is like a 3rd plugged up and needs to be addressed, this old truck is never ending.
tbowker
Full Access Member
That's good to hear, because that's what mine runs.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Remember, I've seen it said on here that the fuel doesn't even atomize properly until the engine's around 180*. That means that 190* is nothing. Barely over minimum efficient temperature.
tbowker
Full Access Member
So then what is the maximum efficient temperature?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Probably up around overheating. People say that these engines can be run at 230* for a while without any bad effects.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
I don't disagree in principle, but I can say for sure that my power goes down when I'm flirting with 220*+. Especially 230*. I don't know why exactly, I'd like to know for sure.
The RV got to 240 once because I was on a fairly steep gravel road in 80-85 degrees and forgot to turn off AC. I noticed it just before it hit 240 so I pulled over, put heater on full blast and open the hood. No damage done that I could tell. 240 is considered "stop now!!"
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