Traveller Smurf (Cubey's '89 van)

Cubey

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fan clutch and thermostat are both motorcraft but theyre like OE aged. Ive been too paranoid about moving the thermostat housing and having it leak (again) to change the thermostat from the temporary i threw in. But i also know my original radiator is like a 3rd plugged up and needs to be addressed, this old truck is never ending.

Water pump RTV on the housing, stick the gasket to it, and leave the gasket dry on the side that goes to the engine. keeps the gasket in place and it shouldn't leak. Makes it easier to clean off later too.
 

Cubey

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I took the van to Yuma this weekend for a VW event, pulling the bug. Temps seem ok, and I heard the thermostat click closed promptly after getting back, shutting it down, and opening the hood. Stayed under 200F during an 80F day today, 45-55mph on the highway, with some wind.

I opened the hood to eyeball the overflow bottle as well as inspect the P/S belt. The belt is squealing from being loose, I guess. It likes to do it at higher RPMs, especially when the belt is cooler from sitting. It's not crazy loose, but I guess it's just loose enough to complain. As the engine winds up for an upshift, a faint squeal does too. As soon as the upshift happens, the squeal stops. Does it for each gear. This morning first thing, it was LOUD. P/S fluid level is fine, and there's no loss of P/S.

So, I'll see about tightening the belt before too long.
 

Cubey

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Had a warm, cloudy, calm wind afternoon to do the rear shocks.

Check this out. The old ones were standard Monroe Gas Magnum 34901. They still sell under that part number. Well, I got the (presumably) better Gas-Magnum RV shocks with a different #. The old ones were bigger around and generally built heavier. The new ones still say Made in USA same as old. The new ones are better for installing with the welded nut on the shaft, no need to use a strap wrench or something to hold it still.

Thankfully they had the blue plastic band and it was perfect for fitting on the vehicle before cutting it. The fronts (further cost cut, black paint) didn't have the bands, so I had to use ratcheting strap to compress and hold them.
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Left one was driver side, completely shot. Right side wasn't much better, despite it's extended appearance. It was very slow and sticky.

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Cubey

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Well gee, no wonder the return line has been leaking, the hose looks like it's about to fall off the hose barb.

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It's hiding under the glow plug controller and mounting bracket. Fun.

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I think that's the one and only bolt that holds the mounting plate on? Maybe there's another I couldn't see. Anybody here have a picture of an early 6.9/7.3 Banks kit, with that 7.3 style GPC relocation bracket?

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Gonna try to get that one bit of hose replaced on Sunday, after the 40-45mph winds are done after tomorrow and Saturday. Nothing else is leaking, so I'm not going to fix what isn't broken.


Edit: Ha, he "stole" the Banks van specific kit bracket design!


Actually nah. I'm guessing he had no idea that bracket was a thing, being specific to vans only, I bet.. and just came up with the same exact idea that Banks did in the 1980s without prior knowledge of it. Unless he in fact run across a kit with the bracket and cloned it. (not calling him out, just a funny observation)

So, it's probably two bolts like on his bracket. I'll just have to look closer at the bracket I have.
 
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Cubey

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Nope. Trucks have them too. That's why I have one for mine. Not that I need it, but it came with the engine and turbo set up.

It's supposed to be two bolts.

I'm debating just removing the GPC and bending the bracket upward a couple inches so that I can get in there to replace that one piece of hose with the aid of needle nose pliers. Depends on how difficult the intake manifold bolts are to remove, I suppose. The bracket feels pretty flexible.
 

Cubey

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I've never tried it. It just might work.

It's directly under the bracket, so it probably would work for a quick repair.

If I were to replace the o-rings, I'd probably have to remove the bracket. The RV with it's 6.9 GP setup meant nothing was in the way in this area.

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Cubey

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Oh, it's only 24ft lbs for the intake manifold bolts. Those should be easy enough to remove.

I'm guessing it won't hurt to remove just those two bolts as far as the pressure put on manifold/gasket? Should be the ones upper right marked "3 4".

No water or oil jacket involved where the bolts go to worry about sealing?

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Image source: https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/engine/7-3-idi-torque-specs-and-bolt-dimensions-with-images/
 

IDIBRONCO

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No water or oil jacket involved where the bolts go to worry about sealing?
The 6.9s have water ports that are sealed by the intake gasket, but the 7.3 have plugs in those ports. You'll be fine. When that bracket was installed, I'm guessing that only those two bolts were removed and then reinstalled. It's possible that they may not have been torqued.
 

Cubey

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When that bracket was installed, I'm guessing that only those two bolts were removed and then reinstalled. It's possible that they may not have been torqued.
Oh that's true, being a kit. Well I'll see about removing the bolts then first, before I resort to bending the bracket.
 

Cubey

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Got the hose replaced. I just bent the bracket up to gain access. The glow plug controller had to be completely removed.

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Had to go buy this 45° tool to deal with the pinch clamps.

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But funnily enough, I don't think that's what was leak. There was a makeshift plug stubby piece of hose with a bolt in it, hiding there. And it was mushy. I noticed because the worm gear clamp was loose. Tightened the clamp and pulled on the hose. So I replaced that too.

Oh and it has 1/4" hose, so someone put newer caps on it. Wasted $3.50 on 1ft of 3/16" hose when I was buying the tool. Thankfully I had an old scrap bit of 1/4" hose handy.

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That's usually the crossover but I'm guessing it melts from being too close to the turbo manifold/up pipe. It's crossing over behind the alternator and running way around the top of the engine to reach the LH side of the engine where the return lines all tie in.

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All put back and I didn't see any leaks, so hopefully it'll be good for a while now.

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