Waystro
No Class
That's sounds Sweet!!
Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
You got the space, install 4 of them per side! Road-legal low/high, 100W High-only, 130W spot, and yellow flood/fog. Go for the freaky spider looks, with 8 eyes
Sounds really good Greg!!!
You seem to be missing something in the interior....... just can't put my finger on what is missing......
You seem to be missing something in the interior....... just can't put my finger on what is missing......
Sounds good! That's the GP38 right?
Nice work. Now when you get it all buttoned up, and carpet in it, it will be much quieter
Nice work. Now when you get it all buttoned up, and carpet in it, it will be much quieter
79jasper
Chickenhawk
^ tp38 for obs, gtp38 for SD, GTP38R ball bearing upgraded version.
I think he's using the HX35?
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
I think he's using the HX35?
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
yes hx35. no carpet for me, i have too many 90 degree angles in my floor for a carpet to contour it. maybe a rubber mat later on. thi sweekend got the wood on the flat deck all bolted down with the trailer decking screws, and got the brake pedal lengthened and adjusted. nice to driv enow. worked on the clutch pedal too but its being a bit tricky. i cant lower it and push it back or i dont have anough throw on the pushrod, so i lenthened the lever arm on the right side, that didnt gain me enough travel. its not terrible to use in the stock position but a little further back and lower would be nice.
also, any near MI got a tilt steering column for sale? I got two fixed position ones i could trade as well? My column is a bit too low for leg clearance.
my dfeadline to have this thing roadworthy (to me that means everythig except interior minus the dash) is March 7th as i have some large items i need to pick up in toronto area. would need to do a shake down test run 2 days before the trip to make sure everyhting is ok, repair as necessary the day before. next weekend is a wash as inlaws are coming over, so i gotta get cracking. my plasma is still acting up, i cleared one issue but now the compressor is tunring on intermittently, i think its a contact issue. but i foudn a nbig hyole saw hit at home dpeot for 20 bucks with a 5" hole which i what i need to clearance the light fixture plates, so i shall do that tomorrow.
also, a favor to ask. does someone have the wiring diagram for the turn signal switch please? 91 truck
PS: firs time i ran the truck with the turbo on, im still starting it on ether and the whole shop gets smoked out, there was alot of sticky "chunks" and a thick, sticky soot on the exhaust housing outlet. Smelled of diesel and ether. Was this just because the engine was stone cold, no glow plugs? I dont THINK its oil, as the cold side wasnt wet and thats usually what goes if the return line is too small (i got 5/8). Not too concerned, just wondering. Usually these issues are solved by getting it nice and hot and going WOT lol
also, any near MI got a tilt steering column for sale? I got two fixed position ones i could trade as well? My column is a bit too low for leg clearance.
my dfeadline to have this thing roadworthy (to me that means everythig except interior minus the dash) is March 7th as i have some large items i need to pick up in toronto area. would need to do a shake down test run 2 days before the trip to make sure everyhting is ok, repair as necessary the day before. next weekend is a wash as inlaws are coming over, so i gotta get cracking. my plasma is still acting up, i cleared one issue but now the compressor is tunring on intermittently, i think its a contact issue. but i foudn a nbig hyole saw hit at home dpeot for 20 bucks with a 5" hole which i what i need to clearance the light fixture plates, so i shall do that tomorrow.
also, a favor to ask. does someone have the wiring diagram for the turn signal switch please? 91 truck
PS: firs time i ran the truck with the turbo on, im still starting it on ether and the whole shop gets smoked out, there was alot of sticky "chunks" and a thick, sticky soot on the exhaust housing outlet. Smelled of diesel and ether. Was this just because the engine was stone cold, no glow plugs? I dont THINK its oil, as the cold side wasnt wet and thats usually what goes if the return line is too small (i got 5/8). Not too concerned, just wondering. Usually these issues are solved by getting it nice and hot and going WOT lol
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Oh how I miss that cackle of an IDI...doh..
Sound nice looking good and I am liking the grill/light setup...just got me thinking now for a OBS round light setup...Hmm..
Maybe a dual setup 7" / 5 1/4" like some old rigs like Mercedes and other European ones...would be bad ass..
Keep it coming man you have one hell of a fine build going on!
after all this time, i finally have real 4x4! got my fresh front driveshaft installed last night, and fixed my plasma cutter. \
one thing that recently has started to bother me is the flatbed angle..i goofed when building it, it sits higher in the rear than the front. The bed line doesnt match the body line...not parallel. Ill hopefully fix that before the back rack is built and put on, but thats not for a while. I dindt realize the frame had 3 planes. I even shimmed the front cross supports but evidently wasnt enough. Ugh.
Anyway, working on the front end again today. no specific goal, jsu tget as much done as possible. Make the intercooler brackets permenant, then make the front end brackets permanent too.
one thing that recently has started to bother me is the flatbed angle..i goofed when building it, it sits higher in the rear than the front. The bed line doesnt match the body line...not parallel. Ill hopefully fix that before the back rack is built and put on, but thats not for a while. I dindt realize the frame had 3 planes. I even shimmed the front cross supports but evidently wasnt enough. Ugh.
Anyway, working on the front end again today. no specific goal, jsu tget as much done as possible. Make the intercooler brackets permenant, then make the front end brackets permanent too.
new tips fix the plasma?
cant wait to see that front end...
cant wait to see that front end...
it was contact issues, there are twin pins that touch the cup, they got a biut of crud inside of them and were pushed down too far and woudlnt spring back up-main issues. and hten the trigger, there was some corrosion under the trigger which turns on the compressor, cleaned that up and everything is dandy again!
for the drive lights, im mounting the face ring on the front, but putting the lights behind the cup ring. theyre not made for this setup, but look smuch better, just adjustments are a bit trickier to make. plus you cant have lights sticking out like that, waiting to be hit by branches and whatnot.
]
off topic but i have to keep reminding myself i need to change all my front steering components befor ei hit the road, old ones are sooo worn. I got em all sitting here. just..gotta do it!, might hav eot buy one new sleeve i thinks.
oh also replace rear carrier bearing, and modify the mount for it, needs to scooch over to the left about and inch and the angle taken out of it.
for the drive lights, im mounting the face ring on the front, but putting the lights behind the cup ring. theyre not made for this setup, but look smuch better, just adjustments are a bit trickier to make. plus you cant have lights sticking out like that, waiting to be hit by branches and whatnot.
]
off topic but i have to keep reminding myself i need to change all my front steering components befor ei hit the road, old ones are sooo worn. I got em all sitting here. just..gotta do it!, might hav eot buy one new sleeve i thinks.
oh also replace rear carrier bearing, and modify the mount for it, needs to scooch over to the left about and inch and the angle taken out of it.
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LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Why do you even have a carrier bearing, when you have that 205 hanging there also? The beauty of the divorced case is that if you play your cards right you can do away with the carrier bearing, I was so happy to see ours go when the Rockwell case went in.
L, i am about 18" too long to have a 1 piece rear shaft unless i stepped up to a 5" or so aluminum. With the 2 peice i have a little better break over angle too, and it was cheap, 120 buxks or a conplete 2 piece oem 06 shaft woth good joints va 600 for a new 1 piece
i mean i could have mounted my tcase back 18" or so, but then front shaft eould be wuite long, and i just kind of thought when building the tcase mounts-it should be as close as possible, duno why that was jst my mindset.
Got the front end pretty
Much all welded together yestersay, intercooler has brackets now, made some stud receivers on the lower part of the grill, today gotta mount the turn lamps, then add 2 more mounting studs per side and one closer in board. then ready for final welding and pait tomorrow. Also working on the downpipe
i mean i could have mounted my tcase back 18" or so, but then front shaft eould be wuite long, and i just kind of thought when building the tcase mounts-it should be as close as possible, duno why that was jst my mindset.
Got the front end pretty
Much all welded together yestersay, intercooler has brackets now, made some stud receivers on the lower part of the grill, today gotta mount the turn lamps, then add 2 more mounting studs per side and one closer in board. then ready for final welding and pait tomorrow. Also working on the downpipe
t-case does need to be close to the trans as can be.
less agressive angle on the rear driveshaft the better.
a driveshaft was bound to have to be made reguardless!
you did right.
less agressive angle on the rear driveshaft the better.
a driveshaft was bound to have to be made reguardless!
you did right.
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