Project Big Red

laserjock

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Found it!!

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I finally just started feeling along the wire harness in the dash and found something square. A little tug and out it came.

[emoji849]

For reference, it is under the dash vent clear against the pass side door. It's not even just behind the glove box, it's to the right of it. Here is the view if you pull the glove box out and look through the hole to the right.

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That is the hazard flasher. The horn relay was right below it.

Great. I found it. Now I needed to pull the wheel off so I can work my way through the circuit. Pull the nut off and start installing the puller, and the horn blows scaring the crap out of me. I got the bolt against the horn connector. Apparently on a cruise truck, it's shorting the one pin to ground that actuated the relay. So horns work. Check. On to the next thing.
 

laserjock

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My only guess is that they felt the need to run 20 extra feet of wire. Really don't know why else you put those 2 things 5 feet from the entire rest of the electrical system.
 

79jasper

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Not too much different than the obs trucks. That's where the wiper relay is on mine. Lol
On the SD, that's where the fuel pump inertia switch is.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

laserjock

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If memory serves, the inertia switch on the 150 gassers of this vintage were over behind the pass kick panel. This just seems bizarre. Anyway, is what it is.
 

crash-harris

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If memory serves, the inertia switch on the 150 gassers of this vintage were over behind the pass kick panel. This just seems bizarre. Anyway, is what it is.

Bricknose gassers had the inertia switch behind the clutch pedal area on the firewall.

When they started moving all kinds of stuff to the passenger side, it seemed like an "Oh crap! We forgot about the XXXX!", "put it over there I guess".
 

Mr Clickety Clackety

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FYI, the window seal worked great!
Well, the sum total of my day was this.

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It took me a good 4 hours of solid scraping and chipping and wire wheeling to get all the sound deadener off the cab floor. That stuff was miserable to get off. Heat gun and scraper, wire wheel on grinder then thinner on a rag to clean it up.

Of course there were a couple unwanted surprises underneath. Nothing a little JB weld can't take care of. Nothing structural but a couple little holes in the metal over the bracing that was hiding under the mat. Since the raptor liner calls for acid etch primer over bare metal I think I'll hit any rusty spots with some old school rust eater and prime it to call it good. I'm going to trim some of the firewall sound insulation back to make sure I get to the seam where I shaved the pinch seam in the trans tunnel. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

I'm only on page 40 (reading this thread religiously. if I read my Bible this much i'd be a priest by now lol) but I had to chime in with a tip/trick I learned from a friend.

When removing sound deadening material my buddy used dry ice with a chisel and a hammer. It makes clean up super easy, with no sticky smelly crap.
Hope it helps for next time (don't pretend there won't be a next time ;)
 

laserjock

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I'm only on page 40 (reading this thread religiously. if I read my Bible this much i'd be a priest by now lol) but I had to chime in with a tip/trick I learned from a friend.

When removing sound deadening material my buddy used dry ice with a chisel and a hammer. It makes clean up super easy, with no sticky smelly crap.
Hope it helps for next time (don't pretend there won't be a next time ;)
You have no idea how happy I am you posted that. I have been dreading trying to find the stuff catbird posted for window sealant about in this haystack of a thread. It is one of the problems with a build thread. It's a good repository, but can be hard to search. Especially if you aren't completely sure the info you need is in there. If I have a side discussion, I try to remember to link it in but I'm bad about forgetting.
 

Mr Clickety Clackety

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You have no idea how happy I am you posted that. I have been dreading trying to find the stuff catbird posted for window sealant about in this haystack of a thread. It is one of the problems with a build thread. It's a good repository, but can be hard to search. Especially if you aren't completely sure the info you need is in there. If I have a side discussion, I try to remember to link it in but I'm bad about forgetting.
In glad it is appreciated. one of the aspects I love most about this forum community is the inspiration and support from other members. Most all of the other forums I am apart of areach extremely negative with lots of put downs.

Keep on trucking brother. this is history ;)
 

laserjock

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In glad it is appreciated. one of the aspects I love most about this forum community is the inspiration and support from other members. Most all of the other forums I am apart of areach extremely negative with lots of put downs.

Keep on trucking brother. this is history ;)
This is a great group. That's the reason I've stuck around. I have too much negativity and problems in day-to-day life to put up with it on an Internet forum. Only bashing going on in here is generally in good humor.
 

Mr Clickety Clackety

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This is a great group. That's the reason I've stuck around. I have too much negativity and problems in day-to-day life to put up with it on an Internet forum. Only bashing going on in here is generally in good humor.
I agree 110%
I'm all for good Ole ball busting shop talk, been working in garages since I was 15. But the flat out negativity, rudeness and lack of humanity (especially from the crowds in LA) is down right unnecessary.
 

laserjock

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I did some stuff today.

Door handles on.

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Didn't put the locks in yet. I need to get the poppers.

Then I started the seat install. I havent taken a ton of pictures but I'm most of the way through the drivers seat. I'll document the passenger seat better.

Here is the bottom of the old seat. Note, this is actually an OBS seat. It was not original to this truck.

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Here is the track off of it. It's only 4 bolts and a couple wires. This seat had what I guess is power lumbar. It's not power back and forth.

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I ended up having to tear down the new seat further than I wanted. They used torx head bolts to put it together with freaking loctite so no marginal amount of force with my little wrench wasnt going to cut it. Anyway, here's a preview.

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Phone went dead. Most not have actually captured the shot of the adapter I made for the front.

It turns out that the new seat mount points are just a little wider than the old tracks. So I'm making adapter plates out of 3/16" x3" bar stock that should do the job. The supports almost set on top of each other. The length of the new and old tracks are pretty similar ( within about 1/2" or less) so length shouldn't be a problem. I think the new plastic will go back on without much difficulty. Need to figure out the quick slide release but limit it in such a way it doesn't take out the windshield when you release it. Hopefully I'll wrap that up tomorrow. I want to cruise this thing around the yard before the weekend is over. [emoji6]
 
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laserjock

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Well, this is pretty much my day today on top of mowing. [emoji19]

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They sit pretty good. I was all set to do a tutorial on grafting the two seats together. I did the drivers side and only took a couple pics thinking oh I'll take a lot of pics of the pass side and use it to document. Wrong. The pass side is completely different due to the way they measure load for the air bags (I.e. Is there an adult or child in the seat. I'll spare you the details of how it works but it's nothing like I thought it would be.

Here's the bottom of the pass side.

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Here's a pic from the drivers side.

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Basically, the old style tracks are a little narrower than the new but the lengths are very similar. I took 3" 3/16" bar stock and made adapters. The old tracks' holes are 14" on center. The new ones are closer to 17". On the drivers side I just centered everything up. On the pass side I offset it slightly to get clearance for bolts in the back. It was a bit of a jigsaw puzzle. The drivers side was very straight forward. It seems plenty sturdy. I think it would rip the bases out of the floor pan before the adapters would give. I so need a drill press. Hand drilling 24 holes through 3/16" steel sucked. Anyway, they fit. I need to clean the tracks up just a bit but everything has to come back out now anyway for the carpet and sound deadener. Still trying to decide what to go with there. May drive it a little tomorrow if I can get a couple things buttoned up.
 

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