7.3idi-fan
Registered User
pm me if you decide what shop your going with so i can get the number and find out wat they would charge for the stuff done i want thanks
This is correct; I wold keep the lifters in the same order as they came out just for peace of mind. A chunk of 2x4 with 16 big holes drilled in it works well for this....then make another one with smaller holes for the pushrods/rockers.
not needed, he has a reground cam for it. If you dont want to do it I will rebuild your lifters for you. better than the aftermarkets of unknown origin.
I have lots of oil cooler seal sets on hand, ford and felpro. would like to move some of it.
make sure you get new valve springs use the comp 910
the break in additive is great for the rocker arms
pm me if you decide what shop your going with so i can get the number and find out wat they would charge for the stuff done i want thanks
make sure you get new valve springs use the comp 910
Russ, what's the deal with the Comp 910's?
Thanks,
Heath
Alrighty- get me a cooler seal set and some injector washers on the way! PM me what I owe ya.
its the higher pressure valve springs that we researched out and also was recommanded for the justins cam.
I am pretty sure thats the number.
Not to argue, just an FYI, when I installed ARP studs on my '86, I did it with the engine in the truck. I did not have any issues. I know it's not the answer to your question. Have fun.
its the higher pressure valve springs that we researched out and also was recommanded for the justins cam.
I am pretty sure thats the number.
No argument. I may have gone that route if I didn't have the inclination to fix a few oil leaks and get this motor sealed up tight. I know from previous experience that the turbo has to come off. On top of all that I don't want to fight torquing the heads down 5 times with the motor in the truck.
I'm also searching for a serpentine belt setup... to add some pain to the process.