7.3idi-fan
Registered User
pm me if you decide what shop your going with so i can get the number and find out wat they would charge for the stuff done i want thanks
Need lessons on how to talk 'machine shop'.
- Thread starter ocnorb
- Start date
not needed, he has a reground cam for it. If you dont want to do it I will rebuild your lifters for you. better than the aftermarkets of unknown origin.
I have lots of oil cooler seal sets on hand, ford and felpro. would like to move some of it.
make sure you get new valve springs use the comp 910
the break in additive is great for the rocker arms
ocnorb
IDIT
Alrighty- get me a cooler seal set and some injector washers on the way! PM me what I owe ya.
ocnorb
IDIT
pm me if you decide what shop your going with so i can get the number and find out wat they would charge for the stuff done i want thanks
Will do!
69oiler
I don't feel tardy
Not to argue, just an FYI, when I installed ARP studs on my '86, I did it with the engine in the truck. I did not have any issues. I know it's not the answer to your question. Have fun.
its the higher pressure valve springs that we researched out and also was recommanded for the justins cam.
I am pretty sure thats the number.
will do, prohbably late this weekend, working on buddys 63 ChevyII thats been in the bodyshop for a year, and we just found some bad flaws, he is not happy.
OK. Are these springs something to consider with the torque cam? Is the increased spring pressure a possible problem down the road..... increased rocker, pushrod, lifter, cam wear?
Heath
ocnorb
IDIT
No argument. I may have gone that route if I didn't have the inclination to fix a few oil leaks and get this motor sealed up tight. I know from previous experience that the turbo has to come off. On top of all that I don't want to fight torquing the heads down 5 times with the motor in the truck.
I'm also searching for a serpentine belt setup... to add some pain to the process.
ocnorb
IDIT
69oiler
I don't feel tardy
No argument. I may have gone that route if I didn't have the inclination to fix a few oil leaks and get this motor sealed up tight. I know from previous experience that the turbo has to come off. On top of all that I don't want to fight torquing the heads down 5 times with the motor in the truck.
I'm also searching for a serpentine belt setup... to add some pain to the process.
Ahh yes, I did not have a Turbo to deal with, just an AC box. I did however replace my heads with ones I had rebuilt. I had an issue with 2 different heights on the bolt holes on each of the heads. The easiest way to explain is with pics.
passenger side
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driver side. as you can see some of the head bolt hole castings were much thicker on this head than the other. I ran the truck this way for ~15k miles before selling it.
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finished product
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Last edited:
ocnorb
IDIT
Just pulled the heads off... she has a fresh .030 overbore and recently rebuilt heads... and an interesting explosion of a thermostat.... I will post the pics in a little while.
Doesn't look too bad though.
Doesn't look too bad though.
FordGuy100
Registered User
Comp 910's are what the powerstroke guys use, but we found out they will work with our engines. Much better spring than stock.
7.3idi-fan
Registered User
will the comp 910's work for higher rpms than stock from like 3700-4000 rpms
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