High pyrometer readings on 6.9L IDIT

[Black dawg]

Also, 1300+ seems really high. Have never seen that with any idi that I have been around. Do you have the bigger outlet housing on the turbo, and bigger down pipe? I know you said you advanced the pump a ways from stock, but unless the timing was seriously retarded before, I think you probably are way too advanced.

I have never seen timing advanced beyond the factory spec do anything but make more noise and more smoke.

 

[R Kingsbury]

Also, 1300+ seems really high. Have never seen that with any idi that I have been around. Do you have the bigger outlet housing on the turbo, and bigger down pipe? I know you said you advanced the pump a ways from stock, but unless the timing was seriously retarded before, I think you probably are way too advanced.

I have never seen timing advanced beyond the factory spec do anything but make more noise and more smoke.

I do have the bigger outlet housing and downpipe, retarding the timing results in better power, but significantly higher egts, ie cant cruise above 55 unloaded hot

 

[Black dawg]

Something is off if you cant cruise above 55 with out high egt. You mentioned this pump has been apart, is the advance functioning correctly?

 

[R Kingsbury]

Something is off if you cant cruise above 55 with out high egt. You mentioned this pump has been apart, is the advance functioning correctly?

The advances condition is poor at best. Wouldnt surprise me that much if it was seized up. Something ive been working on modifying/repairing on a future pump, but also with the condition of this motor it may not happen till the next motors in it

 

[R Kingsbury]

I think that I would try to snag that 7.3 idit, and sleeve it. Did it sit with contamination in the oil or cylinder?

I dont recall what the rotor to plunger clearance is, but it is not that hard to just find a 7.3 pump. Might look at the tag on the side of your pump and make sure it is the small plunger 6.9 pump. Have seen plenty of newer pumps on the 6.9s.

that 7.3 has sat uncovered in weather for about 8 years so far so definitely gonna take some work to bring back, same with any motor around his yard though.

I'm honestly a little pump poor with how many IDI projects I'm running myself into, trying to focus on making the one in the road legal truck run good though but i think im gonna snag my uncle's buddy's 7.3 pump, especially since he sold his truck with my rebuilt 6.9 pump that he borrowed

 

[R Kingsbury]

You're not going to get that out of a 6.9 either. That would take a 7.3 with the Turbo rods at the minimum.

are the 6.9 wrist pins really that big of a problem even on something like a 130cc pump?

 

[Kdo58]

More then wrist

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pin

 

[IDIBRONCO]

are the 6.9 wrist pins really that big of a problem even on something like a 130cc pump?

Yes. I sure wouldn't run anywhere close to a 130cc pump with N/A rods. From my understanding, it's not so much the wrist puns, it's the N/A rods themselves that are weaker. I may be wrong, but Wes was talking about bending rods, not breaking wrist pins.

 

[R Kingsbury]

fiddled with the pumps timing and lined the marks all the way up true this time, the only benefit to leaving it there is its easier to start cold again and its quieter. EGTs went up 300-400 degrees across the board and i lost power. But im sure some of my problems come from whatever that timing dowel is doing in the bottom of the pump.

Yes. I sure wouldn't run anywhere close to a 130cc pump with N/A rods. From my understanding, it's not so much the wrist puns, it's the N/A rods themselves that are weaker. I may be wrong, but Wes was talking about bending rods, not breaking wrist pins.

that sure puts a dent in plans if the 7.3IDIT rod is that much stronger, before seeing the image i wasnt aware of that much difference.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

They're supposed to be almost as strong as 7.3 Power Stroke rods are.

 

[03wr250f]

as someone who has bent n/a rods I wouldn't run them on a 130cc pump
if building for some reasonable power start with idit rods and pistons for sure.

also the high egts and low power sound like a failing advanced piston in the IP. that would be my first place to start is with a good quality reman from either a local builder or r&d. expect to pay $800+
do not cheap out, you will end up fighting it, if you do.

 

[XOLATEM]

With this info...( the differences in rods and etc. between NA and 93-94 turbo 7.3...) Since I am thinking about getting a turbo kit and putting it on my 6.9...

What would be the safe limits that I can run as far as boost, pump output, and RPM assuming that my '85 engine is original...??

I imagine all of this has been discussed in the past...but with all of the collected experience up to date...what would be the current wisdom on this...??

and...while we at at it...if I were to freshen up the engine...what would be the bare minimum I could get away with to make it reasonably sound...??

 

[Kdo58]

I make 11 psi on my 6.9, I have a write up, on my set up.

 

[KansasIDI]

With this info...( the differences in rods and etc. between NA and 93-94 turbo 7.3...) Since I am thinking about getting a turbo kit and putting it on my 6.9...

What would be the safe limits that I can run as far as boost, pump output, and RPM assuming that my '85 engine is original...??

I imagine all of this has been discussed in the past...but with all of the collected experience up to date...what would be the current wisdom on this...??

and...while we at at it...if I were to freshen up the engine...what would be the bare minimum I could get away with to make it reasonably sound...??

My understanding with turbocharging the 6.9s is that you HAVE to use head studs… other than that, with anything short of wild, you should be fine… maybe valve springs too, but probably not necessary… keeping exhaust and intake as open as possible will help EGTs, ie, open flow muffler, and a true cold air intake, like my 6.0 air filter, or if there is any other intake like that… oh and make sure you have a pyrometer and a boost gauge…

If you tow alot, or your truck is very heavy, EGTs may become a rather limiting factor, rendering an intercooler necessary

 

[Cubey]

My understanding with turbocharging the 6.9s is that you HAVE to use head studs… other than that, with anything short of wild, you should be fine… maybe valve springs too, but probably not necessary… keeping exhaust and intake as open as possible will help EGTs, ie, open flow muffler, and a true cold air intake, like my 6.0 air filter, or if there is any other intake like that… oh and make sure you have a pyrometer and a boost gauge…

If you tow alot, or your truck is very heavy, EGTs may become a rather limiting factor, rendering an intercooler necessary

Odds are the 85 motorhomes I had wasn't studded with the ATS 085 kit. Turbo kits come with a boost and pyrometer when new, so it had them. You have to stay under 10psi, from what I remember reading.