Need lessons on how to talk 'machine shop'.

towtruckdave

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Do you see how the to-do is growing?

If that engine starts easily and does not burn oil, you may want to just change the head gaskets and oil cooler o-rings.
 

hesutton

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Like Dave said, it can get a little nuts pretty quick. Going through the process recently and there is a big list of stuff the machine shop needs to do and they have covered it above.

Make a list and take it with you, that way you won't forget anything. Also, make sure they make a list of what's to be done as well. If the dude just says "OK" everytime you say what's needed and doesn't take notes, walk away.LOL

Make sure they call you before they deck the block or heads. They can over do it and ruin things.

If they deck the block, the stock pistons will be close to kissing the head/valves. May need reduced compression height pistons. I did.

Heath
 

Rot Box

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Yep if there's a pull hard enough to blow a head gasket it would be Parleys or Soldiers! Sorry to hear :(

I agree with towtruckdave on this one. The nickels and dimes add up pretty quick :eek:

I have not worked with them personally, but I know a few people that have. These guy's have a great reputation for building very high performance 7.3 PSD bottom ends and they are close to you. http://www.wideopenperformance.net/home.php I know its apples and oranges, but I would at least hit them up about it and see what they have to say.
 

ocnorb

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I just called the shop my friend recommended... did NOT get a warm fuzzy feeling.

$220 per head plus parts.

When I asked about balancing he told me that they couldn't do it, but he could send me to someone who could. He said not many shops do balancing anymore... wierd.
 

typ4

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If you are going to spend the money to get it balanced, have the shop check the rods. they may need to be rebuilt, making the holes round again. And consider having the bushings replaced. They do wear, and a new set properly installed and honed to size will give you years of happy driving.

and if they can BORE the bushings there is .008 to be gained in shortening in most bushings.

just haul the damn thing upp here.;Sweet
 

wmoguy

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I just called the shop my friend recommended... did NOT get a warm fuzzy feeling.

$220 per head plus parts.

When I asked about balancing he told me that they couldn't do it, but he could send me to someone who could. He said not many shops do balancing anymore... wierd.

seems WAY cheap. I have $1251 into my heads, for new valves, guides, springs, some porting & valve job, and flattening the deck (just needed a lil shave) I'm 99% sure they were balanced as well based on discussions with them, but the invoice doesn't say so.
 

riotwarrior

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....I have $1251 into my heads, for new valves, guides, springs, some porting & valve job, and flattening the deck (just needed a lil shave) I'm 99% sure they were balanced as well based on discussions with them, but the invoice doesn't say so.

Can you please explain HOW you balance heads? I am very very curious because if they charged you for this.....cookoo well I'ld say that was kinda improper on their part!:sly:backoff
 

wmoguy

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Can you please explain HOW you balance heads? I am very very curious because if they charged you for this.....cookoo well I'ld say that was kinda improper on their part!:sly:backoff

Flow tested them to make sure flow was even across he board. Sorry, my machine-anese isn't up to par.
 

ocnorb

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Well I think I found a place. They seem to have the right answers and can do any balancing I need/want.

I pulled out the Victor Reinz head gasket set that I bought second hand. Seems that the PO must have needed the valve seals, injector nozzle washers, water jacket gasket and a few other little o-rings. Either that or they got lost in storage. :dunno

I am a little concerned about the quality of the gaskets themselves. The quality looks less than impressive. Especially where the cooling passage inserts are on each upper corner. :dunno

I want to order the things I can ahead of time and this is the list I have so far:

1- Valley Pan Gasket (Felpro) $43
1- Timing cover gasket set (Felpro) $17.75
1- IH thermostat and water jacket gaskets ($??) (Anybody know if there is a high temperature version out there - like a 203F? and a part number?)


Some questions:

Will I need new injector nozzle washers? (If so, where can I source them?)

My front main used to leak- I changed to Delo 400LE and it stopped for a while, but now seeps a bit. Should I wait until I tear it down and see if a speedi sleeve is in order?

What do I need to do to the oil coiler? Are the o-rings another part I should get from IH?

Is there a preferred break in lube for the camshaft?

Sorry about all the questions, but its been a long time since I've been into anything bigger than a motorcyle motor AND its the first time I've ever ventured this far into a diesel.

Heaths post today was an awesome look into where I am headed and I can't thank him enough for the great pictorial!!
:thumbsup:
 

bike-maker

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Every machine shop I have worked at priced every little process separately. Ex. if you call a machine shop and ask them how much to bore a block, and they tell you something like $8 per hole, that doesn't necessarily include the 2 trips through the hot tank, removal of cam bearings/freeze plugs/oil galley plugs, checking of the mainline for size/straightness,honing the cylinders and magnafluxing that also usually goes along with boring the block.
Just make sure you have an understanding of all of the work that the machine shop is going to do.
 

riotwarrior

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.....Some questions:

Will I need new injector nozzle washers? (If so, where can I source them?)

My front main used to leak- I changed to Delo 400LE and it stopped for a while, but now seeps a bit. Should I wait until I tear it down and see if a speedi sleeve is in order?

What do I need to do to the oil coiler? Are the o-rings another part I should get from IH?

Is there a preferred break in lube for the camshaft?

Sorry about all the questions, but its been a long time since I've been into anything bigger than a motorcyle motor AND its the first time I've ever ventured this far into a diesel.

Heaths post today was an awesome look into where I am headed and I can't thank him enough for the great pictorial!!
:thumbsup:
YES don't cheap out get new injector washers and fuel system O rings try Russ for parts...don' know otherwise..

Wait till engine is apart for inspection of parts to determine speedy sleeve needed etc...very good worthwile question...same goes for rear!

While engine is apart, rebuild oil cooler too, perhaps they can tank the oil cooler along with the other parts...just an idea and ya IH or Ford of Rock Auto good spot for gaskets n O rings

We have full Roller cams that don't require the same type of break in that you are referring to. Old flat tappet hyd and solid lifter cams needed special lube and procedures, roller ones like ours do not to the best of my knowledge...but I could be incorrect.

No problem with questions...better to show how intelligent one is and ask a dumb question then to prove how dumb one is and do something one does not know how when a simple question could have saved them!:thumbsup:
 

bike-maker

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We have full Roller cams that don't require the same type of break in that you are referring to. Old flat tappet hyd and solid lifter cams needed special lube and procedures, roller ones like ours do not to the best of my knowledge...but I could be incorrect.

This is correct; I wold keep the lifters in the same order as they came out just for peace of mind. A chunk of 2x4 with 16 big holes drilled in it works well for this....then make another one with smaller holes for the pushrods/rockers.
 

7.3idi-fan

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What machine shop did you find to do your machining i am trying to find one my self and am in northern utah my self sounds like you have a great build going on keep up the good work
 

ocnorb

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Not fully committed, but Hunter Machine seems to be the most competent shop so far... still asking around.

Started pulling it down tonight after work. Got the intercooler, piping, batts disconnected, radiator drained and the hood and front clip pulled. Looks like its ready to pluck. Going to jack the cab up and pull the turbo off tomorrow night. See how far I get. It was 19F (-7C) when I came in at 9PM... that may have slowed things down some.


I was hoping to make a little more progress, but ran into a few uncooperative bolts. (Also changed the oil and filters in my sons car before getting started...)
 
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