My truck. Oh yes

tbirdfiend281

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So my idi finally arrived yesterday and I immediately started on it.

The problems are long. It is clean on the outside witch is very good, but everything else is a bit busted up, I will run down the problems.

We will started from the inside out.

-The steering wanders, the wheel is at 6 oclock when driving straight and does not hold a line very well
a.attempted to tighten the preload at the top of the box, I assume this is the only adjustment I have to the box, still super vague and only got a little better
b.I think I am at needing to replace the box, any ideas on upgrade or suggestion on if I can fix it without having to replace it for cheaper

-Glow plugs, as usual, easy fix, I am going to do a manual controlled setup, and run that

-Trans shifts reeaaallly firm, I gotta peer into the book and see what my options are on that subject, me coming from a computer controlled diagnostic world, I have no idea where to even start, manual transmission are unfamiliar to me, but now is my time to learn. Apparently it was recently rebuilt from what the guy said. At WOT it shifts nice, its partial throttle where it slams your head off. Almost shifts harder then my Tbird I have a few years ago witch had a really nasty shift kit.

-Wipers INOP. Havent investigated, could be a motor. With as ghetto as the wiring is, could be a wiring issues, that just needs my time and attention

-Gauge cluster everything is INOP except the speedo and both fuel gauges. I think the speedo is way off, maybe by like 5-15mph. If its not I have been speeding everywhere. I need to verify that with a GPS to see if I have a non issue. I have a speedo cluster to go in, once that is in, and if the gauges still dont work I will start playing with sending units and wiring.

-Headliner and carpet, nasty, I think I wanna yank them both out, and run around with nothing. I may por15 the floor and roof. Does this make these trucks any more noisy on the inside? The truck isnt bad once your in it.

-Radio, is getting power from wires shoved into the fuse block on the inside, someone ran some speaker wire to some cheapo house speakers and put them in the back because the door speakers are INOP. I had a spare 6.5 that I threw into the passenger door last night, it works, so the door wiring is good. I think I am going to go all custom there, I have to look into the wiring book to see where the radio is supposed to get power from.

I think that is it for now. The truck feels powerful, like good and solid. I think I need to get an o.d bad. I like running it down the road. She is peppy. A turbo would put this truck into a whole new world. So that may come after the o.d.
 

bleedblueoval

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Check all of your steering components i.e. tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. before you replace your steering box. Also make sure your rod from your steering wheel down to the steering box is all snug at the connections.
-Scott
 

79jasper

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About the firm shifting, you said "Manual transmissions are unfamiliar to me," does that mean this truck IS a standard? If so, you could have a bad dual mass flywheel.
The factory "oil pressure gauge" is useless. Once the switch hits 7psi it moves the needle to a preset position. *Go aftermarket with a mechanical gauge.
Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you look at all components.
Before changing any electrical parts, fix ALL wiring first.
 

460mudsports

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One of the very first things I do on any new to me used vehicle is to have a front end suspension check and alignment done at shop I trust. Bad tie rod ends or ball joints can easily make these trucks a handful to drive and unsafe. These trucks also only run about 1/16" to 1/8" of toe in and if that is off and your front tires are toed out even an 1/8" - it will wander. The alignment shop should also fix the steering wheel angle as part of the alignment.
 

lindstromjd

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Are we talking about your '84? Check your vacuum to the transmission, as it goes through the little valve on the driver's side of the IP. My old '87 with a C6 would slam really hard into any gear when the vacuum pump went out, and the valve on the IP was way out of adjustment.
 

tbirdfiend281

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About the firm shifting, you said "Manual transmissions are unfamiliar to me," does that mean this truck IS a standard? If so, you could have a bad dual mass flywheel.
The factory "oil pressure gauge" is useless. Once the switch hits 7psi it moves the needle to a preset position. *Go aftermarket with a mechanical gauge.
Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you look at all components.
Before changing any electrical parts, fix ALL wiring first.

I am sorry. It is a c6, I meant non computer controlled automatics.
 

tbirdfiend281

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Check all of your steering components i.e. tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. before you replace your steering box. Also make sure your rod from your steering wheel down to the steering box is all snug at the connections.
-Scott

Ya If I cant fix it through adjustments I will replace the box and the steering linkage parts also. I do have to check the shaft, after reading up on that stuff, I didnt know you can gain slop through that. My other 84 F250 steered like a sports car.
 

tbirdfiend281

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One of the very first things I do on any new to me used vehicle is to have a front end suspension check and alignment done at shop I trust. Bad tie rod ends or ball joints can easily make these trucks a handful to drive and unsafe. These trucks also only run about 1/16" to 1/8" of toe in and if that is off and your front tires are toed out even an 1/8" - it will wander. The alignment shop should also fix the steering wheel angle as part of the alignment.

I dont trust shops, so they usually only get to do my tires. I can usually dig up an alignment machines somewhere to use. Shops tend to not give a crap about how your alignment turns out. I am far from that step though, I am in a find witch component is causing the sloppiness.
 

tbirdfiend281

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tbirdfiend281

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If they did they went REALLY aggressive. I think there is something wrong because it holds gears to long, and downshifts out of 3rd to quickly. I am sure I can make some adjustments somewhere to fix it.

So tire pressures in the front where way off. LF had 44. RF had 29. Pumped them both up to 44. The PO has some BS light duty tires on there so I am going to get new ones and get some E ranges. I may go kind of big in the front and rear. The LF tire drags on right hand turns, so I will be sending it off to get alined. The steering box and front end is all tight. My steering shaft is gone at both ends. Lots of play from both ends. Is there a later model upgrade I should go and grab up to keep this from ever happening again? The truck would steer great with a tight shaft.

Speedo is 20mph off, because of the smaller tires that had been put on.
 

79jasper

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There is a better shaft. But right now I can't think of who makes it. I was say "red" is in the name.
Yeah, probably just some adjustments off. Oh also the speedo being off will mess with shifting also.
 

lindstromjd

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If they did they went REALLY aggressive. I think there is something wrong because it holds gears to long, and downshifts out of 3rd to quickly. I am sure.

I'll say it again. That was the exact symptoms of mine when I had no vacuum to the transmission and the valve on the side of the IP wasn't adjusted properly. Check your vacuum pump and that little valve.
 

91idi

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Here is how to adjust you're vacuum controller
 
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