My first filtration rig... wmo processor

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

So how do the who and svo guys avoid condensation when they have to heat their tanks... lines.. etc?

This setup would just heat pre IP and I doubt it would get the fuel to coolant temp... the gas shouldn't evaporate...

-Chris

 

[idiabuse]

Water absorbing fuel filters usually are the high quality replacments for OEM diesel fuel filters. The ones that have a drainage port.

The WVO guys have to heat the system in order to use WVO it is way thick to pump normally.

WMO on the other hand needs no heating.


Javier

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

I know they have to heat it... how do they avoid condensation? Water seterator in the filter?

I'm not very concerned about thickness.... I've just been tlreading that if you heat the fuel.. it allows it to burn cleaner... wmo has a higher auto ignition temp then diesel... preheating gets it closer to this temp allowing for a cleaner and more complete burn..

Is this true? Does anyone have any real world experience with it?

Thanks
-Chris

 

[idiabuse]

I use soley WMO and RUG no heating. Runs perfect. Now I am not in frozen town USA but from the sounds of others who do live in frosty town USA they say to use more RUG in the mix like 85/15.


Javier

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

^
And you also run it in an IDI... mine is a direct injection cummins... they are a little bit picky compared to the IDI from what I've been reading.

On a 50/50 blend of w85 and pump diesel at the moment... 50* F outside and plugged in all day while at work... went to leave and when it first started... it stumbled hard and died. Hit the key and it fired right back up... no problem after it started. I even checked the block and hoses to see how warm they are with just the block heater on and the block/cylinder head where warm to the touch.

Its an odd problem... It seems to start just fine at home when 20* out in the morning... but at work and 50*... it acts up.

My current w85 isnt quite w85... probably more like w90ish... I'm def. gonna add more RUG to my next tank and we'll see what happens. Might do it this evening to top off the tank.

Anyways... my main reason for wanting to use the heat exchanger is to help get a cleaner burn and less smoke while running higher wmo blends...

-Chris

 

[idiabuse]

I always seem to have issues using diesel when mixing WMO so I stick with RUG or STALE RUG, when in the past 50/50 USDSL/WMO it has starting issues and air in the lines more often, so SCREW diesel.

Javier

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Perhaps I should run this tank down and then blend with k1?

The same local station has K1 at the same price as diesel... I dont see w85 straight being a good idea in my area where winter temps can reach into the negatives (typically teens but has been below 0 quite a few times)

Would running 50/50 w85 and k1 work out better?
-Chris

 

[subway]

Subway, when you have RUG in your mix do you still run it through the heat exchanger? I've read where folks theorize that it'll vapor lock but haven't seen where anyone's actually tried it.

i have not tried it yet running a gas mix through.........i used it to run 100% WMO through once my truck warmed up. it was on its own seperate fuel system that cut in with fuel relays. i never ran my regular fuel tanks through it with a mix but i could see the concern. i am thinking i should add it in to run my mix through, i am a firm believer that pre heating helps the fuel burn more consistantly and leave less deposits behind afterward. i used to work a clean burn used oil furnaces for a while and that is one of the keys to reach an efficiant combustion temperature.

it got my fuel hot enough that i can not touch the filter when my truck is warmed up, i would usually cut my system in when the truck hit about 150 or so. trouble is that is still not helping you with startup if you do not have a second tank to use.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Well... so far startup isnt terrible... just different then normal (keep in mind I finished this swap in the warm months... havnt ever seen how this engine reacts to the cold) I also figured the block heater would do more good then it is..

I'm thinking about "T"ing into the coolant lines and having a way to reduce or shutoff flow to the heat exchanger if I start noticeing problems...

Gasoline has different boiling points... anywhere from 100-400* F... k1 is 300+... perhaps I should try cutting with k1 instead of gasoline... only suck part about that is the cost difference.

-Chris

 

[subway]

Gasoline has different boiling points... anywhere from 100-400* F... k1 is 300+... perhaps I should try cutting with k1 instead of gasoline... only suck part about that is the cost difference.

-Chris

yea but those numbers are for pure gasoline, i am sure a mix is going to raise that. some thing else i thought of is you will most likely want to put the heat exchanger after the lift pump. the reason why is to raise or lower a boiling point you change the atmospheric pressure on the liquid. when the lift pump is pulling from the tank the fuel is under vacuum, this would lower the boiling point. after the lift pump the fuel is under pressure, this would raise the boiling point to even higher than the rating you specified (which is most likely at 1 atmos or about 14.7psi absolute rating), this might take out the trouble of vapor locking anything.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Hmmm... might just have to play with it. You are right.... the gasoline would combine with the oil and alter its boiling point. Might have to pour some w85 in an old pot and see what it takes to boil it....

-Chris

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Ordered the 20 plate heat exchanger from dudadiesel.com

$60 shipped... figured its worth some experimenting.

I'm planning on "T"ing off of the coolant supply lines for the heater core and either using a ball valve or electronic valve so that if problems with vapor lock due come up... I can shut off coolant flow... let the truck cool off and get back on the road pretty easily.

For now, I'll stick to blending with RUG but if problems arrise with that, I might switch to K1 which has a higher boiling point then RUG

Anyways... I'll update in a few days
-Chris

 

[leswhitt]

I just posted the same info in another thread but my Excursion has a heating element inside the fuel bowl. I don't know what that raises the temp of the fuel up to but I haven't had any problems with vapor lock. Hopefully you have the same results with your FPHE but I'm looking forward to hearing.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Well... a little hic-up came up today...

Had a full tank of 50/50 blend... ended up driving around 150 miles... mostly interstate... by the time I got back towards home, the truck was smoking heavily... hazing heavy at idle and smoking at anything off idle... by the time I got to a fuel station, I noticed a very slight mis at idle... other then that, it didnt seem to be down on power or anything along those lines...

Anyways... dumped 10 gallons of pump diesel in the tank and drove it ******* the way to the house... haze is still there but the light mis seems to be gone.

So... I've read about this being a common problem on power strokes, etc... is there anyway to keep from coking injectos (I'm thinking thats what was going on..)? Will bumping the timing up and preheating the fuel to get a cleaner burn help with the coking issues?

Am I going to be stuck to lighter blends with the cummins? I've read many stories about guys running 70+% wmo and 30%k1 without issue... so why am I seeing a problem with only a 50% blend?

Thanks for the input guys
-Chris

 

[subway]

I believe pre heating will help but water injection would probably be best. Can you pull an injector and check? Just make sure that actually is the problem.