Leaking Line To IP

[typ4]

FYI I have new clamps, return kits and other parts always on hand. Injector lines not so much. You may want to get a spare set of injector lines in case this happens more.
An I also sell a line kit for the pump feed, BUT, that steel line lasted this long, it will likely go another good bit.
Mel is way closer to you as a source.

 

[icanfixall]

If you are having to remove and replace the number 2 cylinder hard line you will need to remove the lines above this line on the back of the injection pump. Its really not hard work or something you need to make sure of but just a suggestion. Use your cell phone to take several pics as you remove lines. Might even tag lines as you remove them too. Never tighten up one end of the line without finger tightening the other end. Just get down to the line you want. Remove it and finger tighten it on both ends. That way you will not cross thread a line nut. Another note is EVERY cylinder has a number cast into the intake manifold port going to that cylinder in the heads. Just rub off some dirt to find it. Look just about 1 inch back from the 2 bolts that holds the manifold to that cylinder. Good luck and work easily. Its new but its not rocket science or brain surgery...

 

[riotwarrior]

I absolutely have several full 8 used injector line sets in stock along with a partial set.

I could easily ship out monday.

Dont get worked up about this stuff....we are here to help you succeed and get it running.

Collectively we have the largest stock of inventory for theee trucks I think...and thats no lie

JM7.3CW

 

[gandalf]

If you loosen/remove any cylinder hard lines at the IP you will probably have to at least loosen the same line at the injector. You'll probably have to remove the line clamps between the IP and the injectors. I'd suggest having a supply of viton "O" rings handy to replace where you loosen each line at an injector. They never seem to reseat quite right.

Just to be sure, and for your edification, I'll attach a picture labeling the hard line attachment ports on the IP. I believe this picture was done by OldBull8. It's a good one to save.

Also, be very careful not to crimp those hard lines. They're never quite the same after that. And take pictures along the way. I've found that it helps immensely in the 'put it back together' stage.

 

[BrianX128]

Thanks for all the pictures guys. I'm gonna take off 6,8,1,2 tomorrow night and leave them to the side so most of the work is done for when my new line comes in Monday or Tuesday.

Just never seems to fail lol.. When I put the olive line back into the ip and started it today, I just remember thinking well that sounds better, but... I just couldn't convince my gut instinct that something was still wrong. At least this is all easy work, it's just frustrating as after owning it for a month now I already miss driving the thing.

There's been something extra fun being the guy with one screw loose showing up to work in dress clothes and dress shoes getting out of the huge diesel truck that barely fits through downtown Pittsburgh. Furthermore I was getting 20-21 mpg. The f250 with new winter treads is barely giving me 14mpg, and the f150 is in the garage for winter. My car can screw off, not fun to drive anymore so I try to avoid that even though nothing is wrong with it.

 

[riotwarrior]

U will grow to love the diesel...

Good batteries and cables
Good glow plugs and system
Good injectors and IP

Yer golden

 

[BrianX128]

Well I just did the batteries, cables, glow plugs, wired a manual push button for them, and flushed all the fluids. So I guess I'm not far from that list at this point haha

 

[BrianX128]

So my line is set to come tomorrow. I'm wondering, on the side of the line that connects to the ip, is there an o ring or any sort of seal there that I should have extras of? I have plenty o rings from doing return lines and caps and those are all fresh, but on the ip I've never took anything off it before.

 

[sjwelds]

Nope. Believe it's just a tapered seat. Steel to Steel, same as the injector connection.

 

[icanfixall]

The injector had lines have a built in seal on both ends of the line. Nothing goes in them to create a seal. Make sure its clean and tighten it. This is not bone crusher tight either. Just remember the feel of the nuts when you loosened them. If you forgot that feel just loosen an easy to reach line nut just to see how tight it was. Now talking about the fitting found in the injection pump head where these hard lines connect to. Those small fittings are torqued to something around 50 ft lbs of torque... They are really difficult to remove with any 5/8 combo wrench. I removed one several years ago because I was making a injector pop tester. Ended up buying 3 Rotunda pop testers. They are really great tools for testing the pop pressure of any injector. Ended up selling one of them because why have 3 of them. Gave a member a better than life deal on it too...

 

[BrianX128]

You must be registered for see images attach

Well I managed to get all of the other lines that were in the way off. Man the line to #1 is a pain to get off, I got lucky and it rotated in the line clamp for the passenger side of the engine, because I could not get that tiny bolt to spin on that line clamp and did not want to have to mess with that. I just needed to get the end of it that goes into the IP out of the way to get the 5/8 in there to get the nut off for #2. Also, whoever designed this and didn't have the 4 lines on the drivers side go to the 4 lines on that side of the pump and same for the passenger side can bite me. Makes no sense and just creates more problems.

But yeah, definitely ends up being my fault that this line ended up broken from doing the return line caps, I'm almost positive I pulled it too high up in the air without the other side being disconnected which was moronic, and with it being on the bottom and it's design it had no real slack to give there as all the stress was on it as it was the only line not in a clamp. Even more curious, it didn't break then, and after it did break I was able to drive it 40 miles home with injector #2's line totally open blowing fuel everywhere and it just kept running. Not well, but it ran.

I'm curious, I ordered a set of line clamps but they were just all the ones with 3 spaces but seeing the other picture in this thread there is clearly one that holds all 4 lines on the drivers side towards cylinder #2. I've even tried searching by it's part number online (D42680) and can't find any of them for sale. Am I hallucinating or something? I mean I could just use the clamp to hold three lines where the one with 4 is supposed to go for now just so I don't immediately break this line again until I find this part, but I'm not seeing it.

Now if UPS would just bring my new line before it's dark out. Stupid giant doesn't fit in garage truck... ;p

 

[icanfixall]

You best get the line clamp that has the 4 lines connected. As for reasons this line broke I feel it was not having the clamps installed. These injection pump make plenty of vibration from the fuel pulses. Remember the injectors open at 1850 lbs and the pumps can reach about 5400 lbs of pressure. Every time the injector closes it creates a fuel hammer similar to a water hammer. Things break that way.

 

[BrianX128]

Never mind found them.

 

[riotwarrior]

Two 3 line clamps off set will suffice! If...you can maoe it fit.

So you feel the IP which is just like the distributor for ignition on a v8 should have all the same side ports eh....they are done this way for firing order as pump rotates...just like a distributor has wires on cap in order.....

Good luck...

Oh ya...thanks Gary

 

[BrianX128]

This is getting hilarious. So the new line is on, that's all fixed and not leaking and man is it a giant pain to get the night to tighten on the ip with a line in it. The broken off one was a lot easier lol..

One more question, in putting back the injector line for cylinder #1 with the weird extension thing on it, I started to cross thread stuff. I was able to stop my mistake and put it back on right, but it isn't flush with that thing underneath now. It doesn't leak either, but what exactly is that thing and is it something you can order? At this point I'm interested in ordering it and a new line to #1 and that thing just to have in case.

I also skipped the back drivers side return cap and o ring when doing that a month ago because it didn't leak and looked like it was replaced by the previous owner, and it's now leaking after I took it off to get to where I needed on the IP so I'm gonna fix it tomorrow I have plenty of that stuff.

It runs and drives totally normal again though so that's a giant relief, no engine flywheel or transmission issues. Just doesn't quite idle 100% cause its spewing fuel around that one return cap.