Leaking Line To IP

[riotwarrior]

Nice stable...*** now need a bronco!

Get olives and dont forget the one on the fuel filter supply side to 3/8 it should be replaced since you are doing IP feed may sz well do them all.

If after replacing and getting it running it still leaks you have a cracked line...

I probably have a few used in stock u can have one for shipping fee. Mels line is sooo much better!

 

[BrianX128]

Ok, I'll see how things go (leak) after getting the olives and go from there. I still kinda want to try the o ring idea to see if that works until those ship in.

 

[cpdenton]

I think you will find o-rings to be nowhere near big enough on that particular fitting. The way the olives work is quite different from any type o-ring.

Btw, if you reall want to forget it forever, have a look at my thread on Mel's (www.conestogadiesel.com) replacement line. Look about halfway down the thread and you will see some installed pics of the line.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...ne-from-filter-to-IP-leaking-still&highlight=



It is expensive, but the line he uses is diesel rated for something like 10 years.

 

[BrianX128]

Can't lie that does look clean. I'll have to see how this all works out once I get the olives. You know it's really quite frustrating the way this fuel system works everything from the mechanical lift pump, leaky fuel filter o ring, and all the o rings and olives and return line caps. It's all easy fixes too so I guess it's hard to complain, but it does make me want to get an electric pump and that line to the ip now that I re-did some of the other stuff to know its all new and not set to leak soon. My luck the ip would die the next day, so I suppose just fix the problems as they occur and do it right is still a more prudent choice.

 

[riotwarrior]

Never time to do it right...always time to do it over..

 

[bbjordan]

Just get the olives. The original ones lasted 25 years! Put new ones in and you should be good until 2040.

But hey, what do i know?

JM6.9CW (see what I did there Al? )

 

[riotwarrior]

Just get the olives. The original ones lasted 25 years! Put new ones in and you should be good until 2040.

But hey, what do i know?

JM6.9CW (see what I did there Al? )

For the love of IDI's..

Try...try n be original...JM2CW...someone else starts using it....try be original...JM7.3CW...N someones gotta be all smarmy ....

Good one!!!!

 

[Sorro71]

Russ aka " typ4" also sells a line to go from your filter head to your IP. It's not as fancy as Mels. I think its made from barrier hose and uses JIC fittings, he also has the O- ring boss adapter to go into the back of the IP.

 

[BrianX128]

Can't catch a break. Olives on, everything is good, hard line to what I'm assuming before I look it up is injector #2 is totally separated from its base at the ip. Didn't even touch it today, but it is totally cracked from right inside the nut connecting it to the ip. And of course it looks like it's going to be miserable to get out of there.

So, does anyone remember from experience as I got ticked off and left before even doing so but can you get a wrench in there and get the nut off without taking the pump off? I'm pretty sure if I take off the other lines to the drivers side it looked like it would be possible to get the 5/8 in there.

Now to go eBay my life away to try and find a line and make sure I'm correct with which cylinder it is. This is so aggravating. I should have just let two of the return lines ooze a little, because everything I have tried to fix and do right thus far with this fuel system has just made more issues that have now kept me from driving it for over a week, and there are 0 mechanics in the area right now who are willing to even look at an old ford diesel for whatever reason, not even that I can't do it but I'm on a 10 day work stretch and just don't have time. Every diesel shop around here is a cummins ***** house and nothing else, not that I have anything against it but they don't even want to acknowledge that other engines exist.

 

[TahoeTom]

http://thedieselstore.com/
These guys sell individual lines for $50 each. You may be able to get an entire set from a junk yard for less than that, but your time is what it is. You might check the market place here. Cylinders are numbered 1,3,5,7 from front on pass side, and 2,4,6,8 on drivers side. You will probably have to remove some lines to get to the lower ones. The factory tool kit has a socket with a slot cut to allow it to be put over the line. A crows foot wrench may work. Be sure the line clamps are present. There should be two line clamps on each side that hold the lines to each other. Without the clamps the vibration of the engine can crack the lines. More often this happens at the injector nut.

 

[BrianX128]

Yeah I was actually just on that site about to order one from there so that works.

Also to your point with the line clamps, I actually am missing one in this picture http://usdieselparts.com/files/images/Ford_Inj_Lines.jpg D42680 is the one I don't have the rest are present, which may explain why I'm having trouble with this line because it's the one that has no clamp at all currently.

 

[TahoeTom]

The Diesel Store sells line clamps. I bought one from them but the spacing didn't work for me. The way my lines are shaped I have three lines clamped together in both locations on the drivers side.

 

[BrianX128]

On my drivers side, 4-6-8 are clamped together so I suppose I could get another 3 hole clamp and clamp 2-4-6 just so 2 isn't free floating

 

[cpdenton]

This is what it is supposed to look like.

You must be registered for see images attach

On the passenger side there are 2 clamps with 3 holes.

 

[cpdenton]

Checked my stock, I do have a #2 line as well..

I will sell it to you if you want, but won't be able to ship it our until Monday.

Send me a pm if you want.