DT466 realities...

ocnorb

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Pulling the cab

Finally found some time to get back to this project.

Managed to get the cab pulled, then we steam cleaned the frame rails, cross-member and front suspension. How come it always ends up that I am covered in grease when I do this? It took longer to clean myself up afterwards than it did to clean the truck!

Here's a few pics of our backyard behind the garage shop. The shade is awesome on days like today. (Hit 99F) Some day a real shop... :love:


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The red line shows where we hooked a come-along to a strap around the main trunk and to the harness we lifted with. Sure wouldn't want to be under that branch if it snapped!!:eek::eek:





We put the cab on the bed to be out of the way while we work.
Double decker!

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We then pulled the zf5 and 205 combo - easiest trans pull ever!
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After that we steam cleaned for about 1.5 hours. Lots of guck hiding everywhere. I'm sure there is still places I missed even after laying on my back under the thing and going at it from every conceivable angle. (That's what she said!LOL) By the time we got the motor back up on the hoist it was getting dark and time to quit. Here are a few shots of the DT466 actually hovering above the frame rails. It was nice to see how things are lining up compared to my measurements.
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ocnorb

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Damn that's a big mother f*cker.
LOLLOL:rotflmao



FWIW you have my attention now...I hadn't seen this thread before, but I for one appreciate the updates! Looks like things are coming along nicely thus far ;Sweet
Thanks Warden!


whoa! How'd I miss this thread?????? THis is awesome.

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Glad to see you found it!;Sweet




That's quite the truck there.
I wasn't sure how to take your comment at first... then I read your sig line and saw that it was a positive comment! ;Really

I just finished a big long post that was erased when my wife's laptop shut down :mad::mad::mad: so i will try again in the next post. Love to hear your comments, critique, insight, etc.. :hail
 

ocnorb

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Head Scratching Time

My son-in-law has been helping me out with this project. I have to thank him and tell him what a great guy I think he is. He doesn't know much about tools, but he is a hard worker and a quick learner and I am really enjoying the time we are getting to spend together! Thank Josh!!;Sweet

He is young and full of spit and vinegar every day. He is ready to start cutting, welding and get 'er done. He asked me what was next- I had to tell him that it was time to sit back and take a long hard look at each of the issues we need to address before we DO much of anything. So the past few days have been about measuring, remeasuring, researching options and starting a to-do list. Trying to prioritize and budget. Most of the issues I saw coming, but a few are surprises. This is where it gets tough for me because it now becomes about all the little details getting done right- even if it means re-doing things a few times.

Research on these motors is tough. Most of what i find on the internet is posts started by Heath. (Thanks!) Tractor puller guys seem a little tight lipped due to the competitive nature of their hobby combined with the fact the they have VERY different goals than I do. There is lots to be gleaned if you wade through it all. The posts at redpower and pulloff.com are great and i search these sites quite a bit.

I took a few pictures this morning in hopes that the lighting would be better. The sun back-lighting is really washing out most of the pictures.

These pics show the grill installed at stock height- no body lift. The motor and trans are sitting on wood spacers. We are still trying to find the best placement. The suspension took the weight with no issues; of course, the cab will add more to it, but it looks promising.

As you look at these imagine the intercooler manifold gone and replaced by a standard intake- that is 6 inches of clearance. The turbo intake tube will also be replaced as we progress. I am using the top of the valve cover as the guide. If it becomes necessary I will buy a fiberglass hood and fab a cowl induction type riser in it. Would look kind of cool if done right.


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We had to remove the fuel filters from the motor. These will be relocated on the frame after the FSV.




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If you look at the top of the valve cover it is only about 1" above the grill plate.







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Again, the valve cover looks like it *might* clear the hood. All contingent on how low we can realistically keep the motor. A 1 or 2 inch body lift is not ruled out.







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A side view.
 

ocnorb

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A few more...

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Clearance with the Fuel Filters pulled off. Looks real good. The starter motor would be a fairly accessible, easy job.







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The steering box has plenty of clearance. This was one of my worries. We have the compressor platform wrapped because SURPRISE; it has a cavity that allows oil to flow back into the motor. We will need to build a cover for it. Oddly enough the compressor that was installed did not use this for an oil return- it had a hose that went into the timing gear cover.






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The clearance around the oil cooler looks good. I just wish the factory had put a few holes SOMEWHERE in the side of the block on this side to make motor mount build a little easier...
 

zebrabeefj40

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Nice work! On the motor mounts it looks like you could remove the existing front motor mount. Then fab mounts that reach back from those holes to the pickup crossmember. Since those bolts held the motor up before they should be enough to do it again; no need to bolt to the side of the block if there are no existing holes there. You might even be able to slice up the old mount and rework it to reach rearward...

Looking forward to seeing what you guys come up with.

edit: Also looks like using an Airdog or FASS would do a neat job of replacing your fuel filters and lift pump too.
 

ocnorb

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Nice work! On the motor mounts it looks like you could remove the existing front motor mount. Then fab mounts that reach back from those holes to the pickup crossmember. Since those bolts held the motor up before they should be enough to do it again; no need to bolt to the side of the block if there are no existing holes there. You might even be able to slice up the old mount and rework it to reach rearward...

Looking forward to seeing what you guys come up with.

edit: Also looks like using an Airdog or FASS would do a neat job of replacing your fuel filters and lift pump too.

Thanks!

Turns out that after much head scratching and a couple of false starts we basically did what you suggest above. The original IDI mounts are now holding the DT466 in the truck! No pictures, yet... sorry.

Ordered some mounts for the trans/motor bell crossmember last night. Going to try the Anchor 2698 and see how it holds up. We have the basic crossmember formed and just need the parts so we can get everything lined up correctly.

I've made a list of task left and try to check one or two things off every chance I get. Once the motor is 100% in place it will be time to tackle drivelines. The u-joint on this thing measures 6" across!! I believe it to be 1610 series. The guy I bought the Roadranger from threw in the driveline from the truck it came from, so it will be re-used to build a new one.

Been doing lots of research on swapping to a Dana 80. It will probably happen eventually, but for now I am going to get a 1410 yoke for the 10.25" sterling and see how long it lasts. (This one is really biting at me, but its not in the budget time or money-wise.)

The other tough decision that has been made is on the cooling system. I've never had much luck with electric fans and heavy loads, but there are several reasons that we have chosen to go this route. First, the crankshaft center-line on this motor is much higher than the IDI motors. This pushes the water pump up to the top of the motor also. A fan of any sort hooked to the water pump will hit the hood, and a fan on the crankshaft (which is how this motor came) will hang down too low.

The serpentine belt system and placement of accessories is also part of the equation. Its nice that the DT has a gear driven hydraulic pump to run the power steering and hydro-boost brakes. Saves two accessories. We just need to mount an A/C compressor and a 3G alternator. I will use a Powerstroke electric vacuum pump for the heater and vent controls. A spreadsheet has been built to play with the pulley sizes and I think we have narrowed it down to a couple of options. I want to over-speed the water pump by 30-50% for better cooling flows as the plan means using Evans Coolant. Evans suggests 27% increase in water pump flow if you can do it.

Yep, its now getting down to the hard stuff for me- all the little details that will make or break the project... stay tuned!
 

subway

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I don't know how I missed this thread also. Can you do me a huge favor I am reading up all I can about the little brother of this engine the DT360. From what I can gather never having seen one in real life is that they have a sae 2 bellhousing. The factory adapter on the IDI is supposed to be SAE 2 also, it still feels like a long shot but can the IDI adapter be used in any way to mate a DT series to a zf?
 

ocnorb

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I don't know how I missed this thread also. Can you do me a huge favor I am reading up all I can about the little brother of this engine the DT360. From what I can gather never having seen one in real life is that they have a sae 2 bellhousing. The factory adapter on the IDI is supposed to be SAE 2 also, it still feels like a long shot but can the IDI adapter be used in any way to mate a DT series to a zf?

The industrial versions may have an SAE2 bellhousing, but the 3 IDI motors I have around, there is no resemblance at all to the SAE.
 

subway

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Even the bolt pattern on the engine side of the factory adapter on the back of the IDI? One side should be SAE 2 one the engine side while the transmission side is Ford.

It's also cool to see other people using ground anchored organically grown solid wood truck lifts also known as trees. Here I thought I was the only one. :D
 

justinray

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The IDI 7.3 & 6.9 are SAE2, the adapter plate removed will bolt to any SAE2 bellhousing and any IDI without it will bolt to any SAE2 transmission.
 

Dave 001

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The industrial versions may have an SAE2 bellhousing, but the 3 IDI motors I have around, there is no resemblance at all to the SAE.

x2. Without an adapter plate of some sort, the back of a 6.9/7.3 is nothing standard. It is just what IHC decided it would be....a bolt pattern to most filled their needs. A 6.9/7.3 needs an adapter to mate it to a Ford bellhousing, an SAE bellhousing, or whatever you want. Nothing usable on the back of a 6.9/7.3 without an adapter.

Dave
 
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