DT466 realities...

bike-maker

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Are you running a straight axle under the DT? Think about the forces on a TTB front end. All the weight of the front end is pulling down on the cross member where the I-beams bolt to the cross member. There's got to be at least an extra 1000 pounds of force pulling down on that cross member. So if you switch the front suspension to a straight axle design, that cross member is way overbuilt.
 

hesutton

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The trans and clutch parts are sweet! Thanks for sharing. I've looked and looked, but there is no Fuller factory kit to change my FS-6306 into a FSO-6306. I'm going to have to buy those parts individually. I excited to see your build progress. I really wish I were that far along with mine. I'll definately be calling and pestering you when I start mine for tip and tricks.

Heath
 

ocnorb

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If there was a way not to go full on drivetrain swap, I would love a dt 466.

To me, thats the beauty of it all- the whole drivetrain is matched up- and no adapters to mess with. If it turns out I don't like the non syncro 10 speed I can swap to a Fuller 6 or 7 like Heath is using.

Pretty sure I'm gonna have to find a D80 or better at some point though...:sly


Not much progress on the truck today as the daughter's Jeepster **MUST** get done first. Managed to get the front gears nearly done (need a part for the ARB- doh!) and the roll cage done far enough to mount the seats. It all has to come apart for final welding and painting, but I need some help lifting it out. I did unload the DT466 off the trailer so I could go buy some steel...does that count?? LOL
 

pennsylvaniabo

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To me, thats the beauty of it all- the whole drivetrain is matched up- and no adapters to mess with. If it turns out I don't like the non syncro 10 speed I can swap to a Fuller 6 or 7 like Heath is using.

Pretty sure I'm gonna have to find a D80 or better at some point though...:sly


Not much progress on the truck today as the daughter's Jeepster **MUST** get done first. Managed to get the front gears nearly done (need a part for the ARB- doh!) and the roll cage done far enough to mount the seats. It all has to come apart for final welding and painting, but I need some help lifting it out. I did unload the DT466 off the trailer so I could go buy some steel...does that count?? LOL


You have a very valid point. You could also upgrad to like a dana 110 or 135. What company are you gettting these trans parts from. I would love it if you kept a tally and list of where you got your parts and how much they cost for this conversion.
 

ocnorb

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I would love it if you kept a tally and list of where you got your parts and how much they cost for this conversion.

Will do.

So far:
Used RT6610 off Craigslist: $500
DT466 off Craigslist: $1000

RT6610 1.75" input shaft from FinditParts.com P/N S1255 $46.15
RT6610 15019 input cover from FinditParts.com P/N 15019 $47.69
RT6610 Key and Pin Assly from FinditParts.com P/N A3990 $6.08
RT6610 Overdrive Kit from Six States Distributing PN K-2019 $671.00 ***Finditparts sells the aftermarket version for $243.00, but were out of stock for a few months, which would kill the project, so I bit the bullet and ordered the genuine Eaton***
RT6610 Gasket Kit P/N K-1931 $21.99

New 14"x 1.75" Dual Disk Pull clutch assembly from Exchange Parts in Salt Lake City P/N EPNMU044-023-2A $433
Pilot bearing from Exchange Parts P/N BG305DD $8.83
CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL -P/N EPHT175 $20.00
Flywheel Resurfacing $30.00
Shift Fork Bushings (2) P/N TC128c20 $10.66
All the above from Exchange Parts.- I found better deals out there, but these clutches are heavy and the shipping became a deal breaker.

MOTOR:
I called the local dealer and near died at the prices I was quoted, so I went out searching and found a few lower price suppliers. Then I did an e-bay search and found a company called "Highway and Heavy Parts" that was a new business. They only had 5 items sold prior to my order, so I took a chance and received the following:
DT466 oil pan gasket: P/N 671827C4 $15.86 plus shipping. (We'll talk about that in a minute.)
DT466 Rear Main Seal Kit P/N 1809964C92 $18.57 plus shipping
DT466 Front crank seal kit P/N 690437C95 $10.74 plus shipping
DT466 Valve cover gasket P/N 675109C3 $7.87 plus shipping
Each of the above parts had a flat rate of $12.99 each, which they initially charged me, but then refunded the difference from actual shipping. So all 4 parts shipped for $13.01
The parts are Interstate McBee and seem to be of good quality... time will tell.

Nut and Bolt Supply:
10 3/8"x2" Grade 8 bolts for pressure plate $5.36
15 3/8"x1.5" Grade 8 bolts for SAE bellhousing $7.81

I also bought about $50 worth of steel that will be used for custom motor and transmission mounts. Will probably need a few more things along that line.

That is it so far. I will try and keep this updated throughout the process.

Managed to install the rear main seal last night. What a job! Had to do it without the $375 special tool, so I will be running it after the flywheel goes back on, then pulling the flywheel back off to make sure its good.
 

ocnorb

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Slow progress...

Still concentrating on the girls Commando, but a few DT projects could be snuck in. :sly

Here's the rear main seal and the "special" tools I used to install it:

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Freshly installed Front crank seal:

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Speedi-sleeve coming off of dampener:

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After a test fit it was painfully obvious that the serpentine pulley set up would not work as delivered. The new generation has a very different front cover. The keyway and timing marks matched, but the damper itself was much larger. Using it will gain me at least 2.5", so I am going to try and modify it. Might end in disaster, but I **must** try.

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Not really relevant; except it is slowing me down, so I will show that we have marked a major milestone on the Commando project. We finished the roll cage today:

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****** picture, but it turned out pretty good. :D
 

hesutton

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Thanks for the photos man. Please post up any of the serp pulley mods you make as I need to replicate those for mine. Can't wait to see that sucker rolling serious IH coal in your rig.

Heath
 

ocnorb

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Rough drawing motor mount concept

Here is a very quickly thrown together, very rough concept drawing of how I am thinking about doing my mounts.

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I need to get some accurate measurements - engineer at work wants to build it in Solidworks and do an analysis for me. So this rough start may evolve into something else entirely.
 

ocnorb

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I managed to get my Rt-6610 rebuilt and converted to OD. It is tough to use the camera when working on such a beastly trans, but here are a quick couple pics:

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You can see the gear timing marks. I did not have any instructions, but it was not too hard to figure out that the 1:1 (4th) gear that had been moved was NOT where the timing was done. (The RT-6610 manual only shows the non-OD set-up.) You can see where I erroneously marked the non-OD gear before I figured this out.

I found that my gears were sloppy- they were all over .017" versus a spec of .005-.012". All are now within spec and between .006 and .007".

Found 2 of the washers cracked where they ride on the keyway:
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Here is a shot of the front of the case and the upgraded input shaft. I went from the 1.5" stocker to this 1.75" because it allows me to use the common medium duty 14" double pull type clutch.
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A shot of the new shift fork going on:
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All mated back up to the range box:
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The toughest parts were pressing the gears off the counter-shafts, and mating it back to the motor. Luckily my employer has a 30 ton press that made things much easier. (I was quoted $100 by the local trans shop, which I feel is more than fair after doing it.)


New Flywheel:
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Clutch installed and trans ready to slide right in...lol
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ATV jack was a royal pain- a transmission jack would have been much better:
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Getting the pull clutch linkage to align on the bearing was not too tough this way.

Getting the trans to go into the pilot bearing took some effort.
I lost track of time, but my wife says I spent over 2 hours on it. (In 97 degree heat..wah.)
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Its all bolted up and shifts really smoothly when just going through the gears. I was too wiped out to take a final picture of it all bolted back up...

Hope to get more done on it next weekend. I have been delayed by my daughters Jeepster. The Buick V-6 in it is making a rattling sound and losing oil pressure when hot, so we are tearing it down for a full rebuild this week after work.
 

ocnorb

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A little out of order here, but oh well. Not sure anyone is reading this anymore.LOL

Pulled the oil pan to re-seal and have a look at the internals this week. Also managed to test fit the new Harmonic balancer. A serpentine belt system will be bolted to the front of the balancer.

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Well here is proof that a NGD harmonic balancer can fit an old school DT.


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As you can see it will save several precious inches at the front of the motor.

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Stood the motor on the #2 adapter to have a look inside. Turns out it was very clean. No evidence of abuse whatsoever! ;Sweet

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Wish I could have taken some better pictures. These just can't do justice to how massive the rods and internals are on these things.

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The oil pan gasket was WITHOUT A DOUBT the worst gasket I have ever had the dis-pleasure to scrape off. My hands are still sore and I completely finished a yellow 3m abrasive disk!! No way that thing is going to leak.

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All back together and spray painted for that little extra touch of class. :rotflmao
 
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zebrabeefj40

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Oh, I'm still reading. I have a '96 International 4700 with a p-pumped DT466. I'll be going a little deeper into mine when the time comes as I need to do an in-frame on it. Still toying with swapping out the 545 Allison auto for an RTO-9513 but that will have to wait until the motor is fixed... Keep at it and thanks for posting the pics. Nice work.

Nick
 

92F350CC

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This is going to be so satisfying when you are walking away from the cummins boys while pulling a 15k trailer.
 

ocnorb

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Oh, I'm still reading. I have a '96 International 4700 with a p-pumped DT466. I'll be going a little deeper into mine when the time comes as I need to do an in-frame on it. Still toying with swapping out the 545 Allison auto for an RTO-9513 but that will have to wait until the motor is fixed... Keep at it and thanks for posting the pics. Nice work.

Nick

Thanks. That '96 has a lot more potential than mine does. You should be able to build it as wild as you want. Gonna have to ditch that 545 if you want to push the motor.

This is going to be so satisfying when you are walking away from the cummins boys while pulling a 15k trailer.

I sure hope so! :)

The plan is to install it bone stock and work out the kinks., but I picked up a GT4594 turbo and an exhaust brake the other day that I really want to use down the road. The turbo should be good from 250-500 HP. The truck it came off of was factory rated 465 horse.
 
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