I had the same question as I found the snot at Oreilleys but did not see a need for such a large jar for my uses.
Coolant temps.
- Thread starter thx997303
- Start date
I had the same question as I found the snot at Oreilleys but did not see a need for such a large jar for my uses.
I've never needed sealant in the past. But I haven't worked on these engines before. My 350 chev sealed with just a gasket after cleaning. My 05 impala did the same.
I think some suitable high temp rtv will do the trick of holding the gasket in place, and a thin layer should seal any imperfections.
Just wondering if there's anything weird about these engine's t stat housing I don't know about.
I think some suitable high temp rtv will do the trick of holding the gasket in place, and a thin layer should seal any imperfections.
Just wondering if there's anything weird about these engine's t stat housing I don't know about.
Man, these engines stay warm for a long time. I WAS going to do the t stat today, but after several hours, the engine is still hot to the touch. Not horribly, but not cool enough to do the stat.
It's no wonder the truck starts hard in the morning, and great the rest of the day. Block heater solves the first start if anyone is wondering. And the WTS light only goes on for about 4 seconds. I'm sure I have some bad glow plugs. Going to replace those later.
So, how about that rtv? I'm thinking of using some versa chem type 2 gasket sealant. Rated for 450* which is better than the thread sealant others used.
It's no wonder the truck starts hard in the morning, and great the rest of the day. Block heater solves the first start if anyone is wondering. And the WTS light only goes on for about 4 seconds. I'm sure I have some bad glow plugs. Going to replace those later.
So, how about that rtv? I'm thinking of using some versa chem type 2 gasket sealant. Rated for 450* which is better than the thread sealant others used.
gatorman21218
Registered User
I use permatex high-tack gasket sealent. I'm not a huge fan of silicone, except ****** implants of course.
Full Monte
Full Access Member
At the risk of repeating myself, you have to get ALL the air out of the coolant passages in the engine. I've been here and done that 15 years ago. One way is to make sure that the nose of the truck is pointed uphill when filling with coolant (per Towcat). Another is to remove the temp sensor at the rear of the engine with the truck level.
everything sounds normal to me.if it's not,i share the same issues you have lol.
if she's under 240,all systems go.i was having some issues myself,turns out my oil temps were the cause for quick spikes and higher than desired coolant temps(quick 230+ spikes on hills.even upwards of 240 when max gross on hills) when oil temps hit 260+ F the heat transfers to your coolant quick on the hills.an aux oil cooler cured that,but with a proper 50/50 mix anything from 192-215 coolant temps running down the road is all good.anything lower than your t-stat wouldn't be working.diesels like to run warm,not cool.
the cooling fan can't help the engine run any lower than the t-stat,nor would you want it to try,as it would simply be a waste of fuel.
iv got e-fans and don't have them spin,not even on low until 220/225ish.
if she's under 240,all systems go.i was having some issues myself,turns out my oil temps were the cause for quick spikes and higher than desired coolant temps(quick 230+ spikes on hills.even upwards of 240 when max gross on hills) when oil temps hit 260+ F the heat transfers to your coolant quick on the hills.an aux oil cooler cured that,but with a proper 50/50 mix anything from 192-215 coolant temps running down the road is all good.anything lower than your t-stat wouldn't be working.diesels like to run warm,not cool.
the cooling fan can't help the engine run any lower than the t-stat,nor would you want it to try,as it would simply be a waste of fuel.
iv got e-fans and don't have them spin,not even on low until 220/225ish.
In answer to the question about elephant snot vs RTV I'd never use RTV ever in the cooling system if I can help it.
We utilize an oil cooler which has potential of becoming clogged by small ************* of silicone breaking off and floating through the system.
The Elephant snot or Aviation form a gasket as it actually is is the better material for this application.
The material is usually available in a squeeze tube as well so you won't need such a large bottle, which btw, if you plan on doing other jobs of maintenance on vehicles, is well worth having around. Keep lid on tight keeps for long period of time.
Cleanliness and preparation is the key here to a leak free service of your vehicle.
JM2CW and you don't have to listen as stated it works for me...you don't have to follow it...it's your choice!
Al
We utilize an oil cooler which has potential of becoming clogged by small ************* of silicone breaking off and floating through the system.
The Elephant snot or Aviation form a gasket as it actually is is the better material for this application.
The material is usually available in a squeeze tube as well so you won't need such a large bottle, which btw, if you plan on doing other jobs of maintenance on vehicles, is well worth having around. Keep lid on tight keeps for long period of time.
Cleanliness and preparation is the key here to a leak free service of your vehicle.
JM2CW and you don't have to listen as stated it works for me...you don't have to follow it...it's your choice!
Al
I think you're lumping a lot of things into the rtv pile.
Aviation form a gasket is form a gasket #3, im talking about the equivalent of form a gasket #2.
I'll just chalk you up to "likes aviation form a gasket" and "warns against rtv"
Aviation form a gasket is form a gasket #3, im talking about the equivalent of form a gasket #2.
I'll just chalk you up to "likes aviation form a gasket" and "warns against rtv"
gatorman21218
Registered User
You can also do away with the gasket entirely and use Loctite 515.
I just realized that I forgot to put thread sealer on the thermostat housing bolts..........Grrr......does this mean I'm going to absolutely have a leak at some point? I haven't seen anything, but I'll be watching it closely.
gatorman21218
Registered User
no you should be fine. The only bolts that need sealer are the 4 bolts that go through the front cover on the water pump.
